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Balencing was done on the cranks . flywheels are all the same. you will need to change the bearing plate also.

the kohler carb refernce manual calls them all 1 inch carbs, that does not refer to the venturi though. the 26 is about 3/4 inch. there are actually seperate carbs for a 14 & 16. the #30 was available in a 15/16 venturi & a 1 inch venturi.
 
Don:
Thanks - I'd need to change the bearing plate to get the notch for the starter bendix, right.

Would there be any value to putting a #30 carb on a 10hp engine spinning roughly stock rpms?

thanks,
Keith
 
Keith,

When I asked Don about putting a 15/16" or a 1" #30 on my 14hp he said that the smaller venturi will produce SLIGHTLY better torque on the dyno at under 4000rpm. In light of that, I'd say stick to the 3/4" on the 10hp......bigger isn't always better.

Just my $.02........Don will correct me if I'm wrong
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Thanks, Steve.
I was of the mind that there wasn't much of an advantage to adding "carb" to stock engine. The point's moot anyway. I bought a 149 last night that will donate its K321 (with some conversion) to the 1000 gear drive. It'll be plenty of power without the gawd-awful shake that the K341's bring to the party.
Keith
 
Whats up everybody.I am new here.I live in kentucky.I own and pull a 12hp cub.I Just had it painted and I put some decals on it and I rebulit the motor in it.
 
Don,
Re: Kohler Valve Springs.

I'm buttoning up a K301 out of a 112 Green machine and noticed that the valve springs were very weak. Upon further investigation, I noticed that these springs were about 1 coil shorter than all the rest I had in my arsenal. Then I figured it was due to them both having rotators (to make up for the added height of a rotator retainer). But the spring pressure was way too low, I could compress the springs by my finger enough to install the locks! I said no way and put in a set of stock springs I had laying around. Are the springs that are used with rotators supposed to be that weak? I figured you might get valve float at higher rpm's with such weak springs, and not such a great seal against the seats. Any words of advise? Thanks, Kenny.
 
Kenny I don't think at stock RPM's it really matters. I've shortend valve springs in a couple stockers to reduce the spring tension for less rotating friction. can't say I saw them float. I think a stock spring is usually good till around 5000 RPM's. thats about where a stock engine starts to peak out on revs if it stays toether;-)
 
My neighbor has like 4-20hp pulling mowers and one of them has v cut tires on it.Do they have more traction or something than the stardard tractor cut tires? thanx
 
What are you running now? for most stockers a 26x12x12 firestone is a pretty good choice but if you want more traction the Cepeks will give you that. if you measure a firestone they are not that close to the advirtised size. the Cepeks are pretty darn close
 
they are not what I would consider the best tire available. Firestones are genereally a better tire when you are talking about comercially available non professional tires.
 
DON - You & I have agreed on tires 100% in the past, I have 26-12.00X12 Carlisle's on My 982 and for mowing the lawn they're O-K, but I sure wish I'd win the Lottery so I could buy some Firestones for it! The Carlisle's have about a 23 Deg. angle lug and they're barely 1/2" tall and there's about 4-6 too few lugs on each tire. Stiff carcass, lugs spaced too far apart. They even ride rough and make the whole tractor shimmy on concrete with only 4 psi in them. For straight pulling duty the CEPEK's save You hours & hours of grinding time getting the lugs "Vee'd" out.
 
That's them! Last time I priced a pair about a year ago I think they were $129 each. About double what I paid for a pair of 23-8.50 X 12 Firestone's at the same place about 2 years ago. You may be able to find them cheaper at Miller Tire,Tucker Tire,Cedar Rapids Tire, etc.
 
M.E Miller Tire out of Wauseon, OH has 26x12x12 Firestones listed for 95 bucks a pop. This is out of their summer catalog which I recieved last week sometime.
 

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