IH Cub Cadet Pulling and Hot Rodding

[kehrecke]

So, still being a virgin with respect with the gear cruncher trannies, you can't just put "low 2nd, "2nd" & "high 2nd" in a tranny in place of the 1st, 2nd & 3rd without a whole bunch of work???

I gotta tear one of these apart so that I can figure this mess out.

Hey, Ryan - that 500cc twin is a novel idea.

 

[rmull]

Keith- I know, I am sure that noone has ever though of it. There happens to be one in our local paper for $550. . .

 

[dvogt]

Keith the gear drive tranny tapers up toward the front. the gear sizes are smaller in diameter also . as you go to smaller tooth counts on top you also increase the size of the bottom gear . I've spent a hour or 2 clearencing tranny case's to squeeze diferent gears inside. then you need to space them corectly & have the detents come out correct. it can be time consuming . when you go to shim the pinion depth to the ring gear and you find out you made a spacer the wrong demention and you don't have any shims to adjust with you take it apart to narrow the spacer till you do. once you've done a few its not to bad.

 

[esajdak]

Hey guys,
I am not a puller, I just want my '61 original to go a little faster. Any knowledge out there about changing the engine pulley to something larger than stock. Thanks
Ed

 

[kkleiss]

I just installed a new complete clutch & driver from Midwest Super Cub for my 128 stock puller. I lengthened the clutch release lever and welded a angle iron support to the frame for the hanger assembly as recommended by Midwest Super Cub. The K321 engine bolt holes are a 1/4" off. The clutch will not disengage. I had a JD & CaseIH mechanic look at it & they thought the clutch assembly was too long. When I ordered the clutch assembley I ordered it for a Cub 128. Has anyone had experience installing this clutch setup in a 128? There is so much pressure from the new clutch that I can't even rotate the drive shaft. Any advice would be appreciated on what to check.

Thanks,

Kurt

 

[dvogt]

I guess what I would do is take the clutch back out . install the engine & measure from the inside of the pilot hole to the front of the input shaft , then measure the overall length of the driveshaft. you mentioned you use there clutch does this include their 6 pin driver & adaptor hub ?

 

[kkleiss]

Hi Don,
Yes it includes their 6 lug driver. I purchased the setup as a complete kit & had it made to specs for a 128. I can't figure out how they compensate for the 6 lug driver plate thickness. The plate is about 1 inch thick compared to the original 3 lug drive plate. I would assume they shortened the driveshaft. Thanks for the information & I"ll take the clutch out tonight & measure the length.

Thanks,

Kurt

 

[dvogt]

or they could have shortened it at the driver adaptor thats on the flywheel where the 6 pin driver bolts to ,I never checked to see if they were the same length

 

[rclark]

Don,
Sorry about the so called "add" that was'nt my intention.... I was only trying to help...

Thanks anyway,
Rick

 

[gedwards]

Here are some pix of my father's new puller in action. We pull AGTPA Stock Altered V-Twin.

 

[kwood]

Does anyone have a picture of how the shifter forks are strengthened for pulling? I would appreciate it. Kent W.

 

[dvogt]

Kent I just did aset last week , but I didn't take any pics.

Greg looking good.

Rick , no problem .

 

[jabram]

OK, I'm ready for a discussion on 30ci.

3.25 vs 3.5 stroke.

what do you guys think???

 

[dvogt]

Unless you have the time & the pocket book to play around with the 3.5 stroke I'd build a 3.25 . all the engine builders are geared to this stroke for 30 cubers. not to say you can't do it on a 3.5

 

[dkirk]

Joe, the 3.5 stroker only buys you a 2 cubic inch displacement increase (bore left unchanged at 3.375 in), will increase piston speed at a given rpm (slightly reduced engine life), and recip forces will increase (thus more vibration). We need to know what you're going to use this engine for - a garden-rod or full competition puller?

 

[dvogt]

David , he's building a 30 cube motor for pulling. these little engines turn extreamly hard . usually have around a 40 - 44mm carb on alky. most of the top runners use cams over .500 lift.

 

[jabram]

Will a stock 3.25 hold together?? I don't want to test out a scatter shield.

 

[jabram]

I am speaking of the crank only, I already tested out a cast piston. They seem to separate at the wrist pin around 6,500 rpm. Other damage follows. I am wanting to get back into pulling. I am trying to see what to build, or buy.

thanks,

 

[dvogt]

I'd put a steel crank in & a forged piston. after market rod. since a 30 turns pretty hard you may want to consider titanium valves so you can use lighter springs. less rotational drag for what its worth. have you seen the turn key PS engines that Super Cub sells ? kinda hard to build something for the kind of money he's selling them for

 

[kehrecke]

Don V & those in the know on engines.
I'm working on getting a K321 out of a 149. Can I convert this engine to ring gear start by substituting a flywheel from a K241 10 hp? Put another way, are the flywheels weighted the same across the K241-K321 engine family? I think I've read here that the balancing is accomplished by how much material is subtracted from a common crank.

Another question. I know the K341 uses a "30" carb. The two K241's I have each have a "26" carb. I was reading last night that the K241-K341 engines all utilize the 1" carb. What's the difference between a "26" & "30" carb? Is it just jetting? What carb is used on a K321?

Thanks for the help.
Keith