Cub Cadet 60

[aschumacher]

Wayne, if all else fails, maybe he can use a "Priorty" box from the post office. Ya know the one that sez, 'If it fits it ships...'

 

[ajohnston]

Better get a big box. lol

 

[aaytay]

OK... I GIVE UP!

After dumping another weekend into this engine, I'm DONE! It's time to start exploring re-power opitions. If anybody has any thoughts, I'd love to hear them. This engine wants to run, but just wont happen. Plenty of spark, and it's timed (twice) per the manual put it barely even spits when cranked over.

The biggest hurdle with a repower is that the forward speeds run off the crankshaft-stub, and the reverse speeds run off of the CAMSHAFT-stub, so I'd probably have to find a gearbox from one of the later model Rear Engine Riderss that incorporate a REVERSE gear, to make it work.

At this point I'm thinking a 7hp Kohler would look (and sound!) pretty cool sitting on the back, but I'm "DONE" with this Tecumseh-JUNK!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, bummer! Hey, I like the thought of a K161 in the back of that. (Why didn't I think of that?

) Could be like a go-kart with no reverse. Just a centrifugal clutch and a go pedal.

Hmmmm, I have a spare K161 setting in the garage that I could let go for cheap...

 

[wshytle]

Art-

I agree with you about the Tecumseh engines. I have just not EVER had good luck with them. I have about three machines out there right now just sitting because of Tecumseh power...or lack of. One is a Troybilt Pony rear tine tiller. My biggest issue seems to be carburization. If I let the little tiller sit without running for a couple of weeks the carb would gum up or something. Anyway, I'd have to clean it before the thing would run again. It's been one of those things that just requires too much attention when there's work to get done.

How in the world would you repower with a horizontal shaft? If you ever do just load up the pics cause I gotta see that! I bet you could find a nice Briggs I/C vertical shaft that would bolt right in. It appears you want a worker as opposed to a trailer queen.

 

[aaytay]

Wayne-
You're probably correct. If a model 55 and/or 75 gearbox would swap in, that would make a cheap BRIGGS motor a smart option. (then you'd have reverse gear)

Kraig-
Thanks for the 7hp Kohler offer, but I actually have one that could work for now.

 

[aaytay]

Well, the change has been made...

On Friday a box showed up via UPS with a gear-box from a 55/70 in it. By swapping in one of these, you gain a "reverse" gear so you can mount a Briggs (or other modern vertical-crank engine).

The 55/70 gear box is shown on the left in this pic. The original 60 gearbox is on the right..

As it turns out the gearbox is not a perfect swap as there are a few minor differences, (shift lever, brake rotor, etc) so I swapped the necessary parts to my original gearbox and cleaned things up a bit before putting it all back together.

Here it is before refilling it with 1/2lb of #2 grease...

We now have reverse gear!

To be continued.... <font size="-2">(looking for a used Briggs)</font>

 

[mgonitzke]

That brake rotor really looks like a CC gear drive rear pressure plate.

 

[aaytay]

Matt-
I agree. It shows up as a different part-number in the parts look-up, but they do look similar.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, nice progress!

 

[aaytay]

Somewhat of an update, but also some questions...

I didn't find a Briggs as had been mentioned earlier, but managed to get a great deal on a Kohler 12.5hp. (OHV, pressurized oil system with spin-on filter)

I have to admit, I'm not very "up" on magneto ignition systems and was hoping to get some help from someone who's worked with these. I don't want to burn up something when we turn the key for the first time.

First question...does THIS look correct?

Second question... See the dangling black plug in the pic below with the two wires? Those wires will be routed to the key switch....I'm guessing the WHITE wire in this pic is the "magneto kill" wire and goes to the "M" on the key switch, but where does the black wire coming out of the plug go? (It's coming from the voltage regulator just at the top of the pic.)

Maybe the "B" along with the positive feed from the starter?

On a side-note, I did get the center mower-deck pulley rebuilt today. (New bearings, races, and seals) That's an expensive set up to replace!

 

[dross]

Art on a QL the center wire on that three wire connector is the DC voltage to the tractor. The diagrams I looked at show it in line with the wire that feeds the switch.

 

[jchamberlin]

Art --That wire feeds the output of the alternator to battery, and on a typical magneto-fired engine, the juice may not go through the key switch. Short on time this morning, or I would look up a representative wiring diagram. The only thing your key in the picture is designed to do is start your tractor, kill it, and give you a way to switch on the lights.

 

[aaytay]

Dave/Jeremiah-
Thanks for the thoughts. You've confirmed what I suspected, but guessing is a great way to "let the smoke" out of something and ruin it, so I figured it made sense to ask first.

So the question still remains, what should I do with the wire coming from the voltage regulator. Should I run it straight to the battery? (+ terminal) I can't imagine that it should run to the battery by first going through the ignition switch.

 

[dross]

Art I wondered the same thing last night thats why I went and looked at a couple of harnesses in the diagrams. All the diagrams for the bathtubs show that wire gong straight from that wire to the Battery. To really mess with you though, that same wire on a early 6/782 goes to the "A" terminal on the switch. Depending on where that engine came from I'd put it in the POS line of the battery, if the battery drains your going to need a separate switch. Or you could run it to the L terminal. You'd have to use that position all the time to charge the Battery,

 

[jchamberlin]

Art--
On the 682 and 782 tractors the rectified output of the alternator does indeed go through the switch. Both of the wires at the two-wire motor connector eventually terminate at the key; one at the ignition terminal, one at the alternator terminal. The alternator is in the circuit in all key positions but "Start" and "Off." Believe me, I have done extensive research on this topic.

Because your key needs the Ground contact to kill the magneto, there is no room for an alternator contact.

If you're worried about the battery possibly draining through a failed rectifier or stator circuit, you could put a power diode in line, although the diode would simply duplicate the rectifier's (correct) function.

I imagine that running the charging circuit through the key switch is a hold-over from the days of starter/generators and coil-driven voltage regulators in which back-feeding the charging circuit from the battery was a greater danger; the modern solid-state rectifier/regulator should decrease that possibility.

 

[aschumacher]

J.C. and Art...A year or so ago a member had a problem with battery charging. Looking at the wire diagrams, the circuit looked straight thru from the solid state rectifier to the rest of the tractor. But if one looks at a parts drawing for the engine you will probabily find a separate diode in the output wire, that is within the motor itself. Just a little FYI for future charging problem solving.

 

[acalhoun]

Can anyone show me or tell me how the carb linkages go on a cub cadet 60

 

[aschumacher]

Arron, check this out. Was origionaly posted by Cub member Wm. Anders in Feb 2014. Looks like enough info to get you hooked up. Good luck.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B4Z6PbMOcEolRnBwUkFIbFdVOXc/edit?pli=1

 

[digger]

Allen S.
Kinda makes ya wonder where they STOLE it from!
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/60%20RER%20Service%20Manual.pdf