Cub Cadet 60

[aschumacher]

Art, did you see the pictures of Rob Houtz tractor collection on the main forum? Did you contact him yet about parts you need to get your daughters 60 running?

 

[mbounds]

Hey Art...remember that old thing about reading manuals?? I just read the MTD Electrical Diagram & Schematics Manual..Guess What?? See Below

Myron

 

[aaytay]

Allen-
I did see that, and ironically, I thought the SAME thing!

Myron-
Thanks for sending that...

 

[aschumacher]

All right guys...even with a magnifing glass I cant read the page about rectal-fires on a Cadet 60. Someone willing to post a larger copy. Myron I cant find a copy of a 60 book anywhere.

 

[digger]

Ya know guys.
The Service manual we have in the manuals section has all everything ya need.
CLICK HERE

 

[aschumacher]

Thanks Charlie. I went to the bottom of the main page and looked in 'Manuals" and couldn't make a choice on where to find a 60 book. I went back to my old listings(ccmanuals.info/pdf)<font size="-2"> and it looked at me and winked. Maybe time for new glasses...wife suggests new mind ! ? ?</font>

 

[thoffman]

Allen,
Let me know where to get that new mind. I think most of us here need to go to that store.

 

[digger]

Tom H.
I went this morning and they gave me a rain check and told me not to hold my breath!

 

[thoffman]

DAMN!!! Now what do I do?

 

[aschumacher]

Tom and Charlie, we'll have to plod on as we have...
Wife came up with an ancient saying:
In the land of the blind, one-eyed is king!
So I guess there is still hope for us.

 

[aschumacher]

Art, did you notice the fact that 2 diodes gives fast charging and 1 gives slow? Maybe the origional PO did a lot of mowing and pulled a diode so he didnt boil the battery!? After all, there is no regulator to control charging.

 

[aaytay]

Allen-
Yeah, I saw that.

That "could" be, but seeing as there are some other bits and pieces missing from this thing I'm guessing that somebody may have just used this as a "parts machine".

Maybe it was this kid.....

 

[aaytay]

I spent some time today trying (again) to get this MODEL 60 running. It seems to have all 3 legs of the three-legged stool needed to run (spark, fuel, compression) but it still won't even pop over.

I have a hunch that although it's making spark, the spark just isn't strong enough. I pulled the magneto, and from what I've researched online, it seems that this thing is bad.

Here's what I saw when testing the magneto...

If anyone here has any thoughts as to if this magneto is bad, PLEASE chime in. I thought I'd ask before spending the dough on a new one.

If it's not the magneto, you'll be able to find the crumpled wreckage of a Model 60 at the bottom of a tall cliff, because at this point I'm stumped!

 

[dross]

Art, Have you looked at the flywheel key?

 

[aaytay]

Dave-
The points are under the flywheel. I've adjusted the points about 3 times to make sure it was done right. Then I learned that the engine is "timed" by rotating the entire ignition assembly slightly, I did that about 3 times as well...there's 3 more flywheel removals. The flywheel was pulled for a 7th time to replace the condensor, then an 8th time to remove the magneto and test it as you see below.

I'm guessing the only thing that could be wrong with the flywheel key is that it's getting worn out from falling on the floor everytime I've removed the flywheel...LOL!

 

[dtanner]

Home of the Plow Special (Aaytay)

the picture you posted May 21, 2011 - 03:30 pm:
Just post another picture of that in place please,.I think that has an air gap setting to get the spark off the flywheel.A weak spark could come from to far a gap on the pick up point . My .02

 

[mbounds]

Art...Did you set the timing per the instructions on page 1-14 of the Model 60 Service Manual, GSS-1389 (Psst...its in the Manuals section)?? Very unusual procedure and the engine probably won't run if you don't do it exactly as specified.

Myron B

 

[aaytay]

Myron/Don/Dave-
Thanks for the thoughts, I really appreciate everyone's help.

Myron-
Yes, I did "time" the engine via page 1-14 of the Service Manual. (You're right, that is a very specific set of instructions.) I've got the manual saved!

I used the stub-end (#3 in the picture) of a vernier caliper to get the .085" measurement.

Don-
I believe this "timing" proceedure is also what sets the air-gap you mention because there wasn't anything (that I saw) in the manual about how to specifically set just the air-gap.

(?)

Keep the thoughts coming!

 

[jchamberlin]

Art: I found the clearest instructions about setting the air gap for a magneto in the manual for my Kohler M18 where it says to use a 0.014" feeler gauge to set the gap, and then to check to see that it has 0.010" when you're done. These instructions compare to the B&S magnetos which cite the same 0.010" gap, but give you a piece of cardboard with which to set it. I've never trusted the cardboard, especially the 9th time in . . . (I've been there too).

Hope this helps.

 

[aaytay]

Jeremiah-
Now that you mention it, that ".010" gap is the same amount one of my JD manuals specify for the ignition on the SOLID STATE 140's from the late 1960's. That .010 gap must be a pretty standard setting on most of these small engines.

The ironic thing is that (unless I'm missing something in the manual) there is no way to measure the air-gap on this engine because the entire magneto and points assembly lies up inside the flywheel.

I'm guessing the "timing" instructions that Myron mentioned a few posts back must be finding that same "sweet spot" by measuring the rotational postion of the engine since you can't physically measure the air-gap.

I dunno.... Right now the only "sure thing" is that the engine doesn't run. Hopefully on Tuesday (when the parts come in) I'll know more.