Clutch issues

[mgonitzke]

Roll pins will not work for long. You need to use the coiled pins. These work great: https://www.mcmaster.com/95755A419/

Similarly, you can measure the pins in the 3-pin driver that need to be replaced and also source those from McMaster-Carr.

The driveshaft is 5/8" and was originally cold-rolled low-carbon steel. That will work fine for a replacement, as will 4140 or 1144.

You need a new friction disc, pressure plates, teaser spring, main spring, and throwout bearing while you are in there. With as cobbled as that is, I wouldn't trust any of those parts. There is also a bronze pilot bushing in the 3-pin driver you may as well replace while you are ordering things from McMaster-Carr.

 

[mpatterson]

I have a question - sort of related - what about the clutch release lever, how do you know when one is worn out? How much "slop" or "play" is there supposed to be in one? I'm assuming if things aren't adjusted correctly they will wear on the bearing ?

Does anyone have a picture of all the parts in new condition vs a worn out collection of parts?

For all of us who are used to hydro's and need educating.

 

[Jamocha]

Roll pins will not work for long. You need to use the coiled pins. These work great: https://www.mcmaster.com/95755A419/

Similarly, you can measure the pins in the 3-pin driver that need to be replaced and also source those from McMaster-Carr.

The driveshaft is 5/8" and was originally cold-rolled low-carbon steel. That will work fine for a replacement, as will 4140 or 1144.

You need a new friction disc, pressure plates, teaser spring, main spring, and throwout bearing while you are in there. With as cobbled as that is, I wouldn't trust any of those parts. There is also a bronze pilot bushing in the 3-pin driver you may as well replace while you are ordering things from McMaster-Carr.

Would this rod be sufficient if I need it?

 

[mgonitzke]

Yes, that will work.

 

[dschwandt]

I have a question - sort of related - what about the clutch release lever, how do you know when one is worn out? How much "slop" or "play" is there supposed to be in one? I'm assuming if things aren't adjusted correctly they will wear on the bearing ?

Does anyone have a picture of all the parts in new condition vs a worn out collection of parts?

For all of us who are used to hydro's and need educating.

My observations here....
Check the curved surface (rear) of the release lever (#10) for wear from riding on the throw-out bearing, also check the 2 holes on top for wear from then pin that secures it to the yoke (part #9), These are main pivot and wear points and will wear significantly over time.

The surface of the release lever can be salvaged by welding it up and resurfacing it on a mill and the holes welded shut and re-drilled if a replacement cannot be found.

ON my 126, I made a new yoke and added a short piece of bearing stock with a grease fitting, however the release rod will still wear a bit from the pin.

Try NOT to run the tractor for extended lengths of time, as in chipper operations, with the brake engaged as this will cause premature wear on all parts mainly the throw out bearing as it will be always turning, this is why correct clutch adjustment is critical and next to impossible (IMHO) all the components worn out.

 

[dschwandt]

Would this rod be sufficient if I need it?

This part should be indicated in a mill with a collet fixture or other suitable securement tooling for proper drilling and hole placement to ensure precision.
Use NEW Spirol pins (1/4") and unworn couplings for installation to avoid future issues.
Also, check the hole in the transmission input shaft for wear.
Consider purchase of a "pin punch set" for proper Spirol pin installation.

Goof luck!