• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Building a new Shop

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Charlie, please do, I had nothing to do with it except for adding the transfer switch panel. I thought you'd have posted a critique by now.
roflol.gif
Keep in mind this was built in 1978, not sure how much the code has changed, if any, since that time.
dunno.gif
Also, Somerset didn't even have a building inspector until a few years ago. I wish we still didn't have one...
shhh.gif


I should mention that the house passed an inspection required by the mortgage lender before I bought it. I should also mention that each of the breaker panels has a main/disconnect breaker in them.
 
Let me preface this critique KNOWING that Mn. & Wi. in years past had their own electrical codes and only recently HAD to conform to the NEC, so technically, everything was totally legal back in the day.
Minnesota still says that the BOCA code is a bunch of crap and it's OK to run soft copper for natural gas lines inside a residence! WHAT A CROCK OF CRAP!

Oh there's nothing unsafe there, just a little odd and nit picky, LOL
Other than not so even bending of the wires, no bushing on the ground wires at the bottom of the disconnect.
No seperate neutral bar.
Fender washers missing on the screws holding the panel in place.
The LB's are wrong, they should have been LI or LR boxes that face outward.
In most states, your not allowed to run THHN or the like in the same pathway as 0 or 00 wire, but that varies as much as the weather, LOL
you have a 200 amp service being disconnected with 300 amp fuses, that's a big no no, especially when your using FRN fuses, which btw should have goose poop or dielectric grease the termination points.
A water line which is not that big of a deal, but the filter that has the potential to leak that's with 36" of the MDP and MD is an issue!
That's enough right now other than you don't have to use pipe cleaner when doing electrical work.
biggrin.gif
 
Kraig they ran parallel conductors so they should have installed two 200A panels and not used the 400 disconect.You would have had ample circuits for anything you needed. (unless your local codes don't allow it).
 
BOY.... I'm not letting Charlie look at MY elec. panels.

What's that old saying about too many cooks ruining the meal? Same applies to electrical wiring in MY house.

At the time I was wiring my shop I was working for a co. building electrical food processing equipment, Commercial ice cream freezers to be exact. I had several EE's plus some really good electrical people to consult with. I had a wiring handbook too. I only had to re-do a couple things. Only comment the electrician made who connected the shop to the house service panel was I could have used FEWER GFI breakers for my outlets. But I have SO many 12-15A power tools that when SON & I work on something we're liable to over-tax a 20A circuit so I put in Lots of circuits.
 
So are you guys trying to say I should update the 4 fuses that run my house? Crap that could cost 150 or 200 bucks before it's over.
 
Charlie, I'm relieved to read this:

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Oh there's nothing unsafe there, just a little odd and nit picky, LOL<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<font size="-1">So far the water filter has not leaked even the slightest bit. It was installed before I bought the house. When I change the filter I inspect the O-Ring, but I've not yet had to replace it. I have reapplied silicon grease to keep it nice and supple and to make it easier to open, kind of like anti-seize.

It took me a few moments to figure out what you were referring to with this statement:</font>

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

...other than you don't have to use pipe cleaner when doing electrical work.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
lol.gif
facepalm.gif
<font size="-1">Well, I guess it'll help keep any water out if the filter ever leaks.</font>

235101.jpg
 
Luther, I'm surprised that the big disconnect switch was even installed. It's seems like it's redundant.
dunno.gif
I've never seen a setup like this in any other house I've been in.

Matt, sorry to have hijacked your thread.
blush.gif
 
hahah its quite alright! ive been lurking and laughing!
biggrin.gif
 
Matt S.
If you can swing it, go for foam!
That stuff is great for keeping drafts out, plus a great sound barrier. I'm glad I did mine!
235180.jpg

235181.jpg
 
I would love to have foam, did you DIY? or pay some one? is it "ridiculous" to have done? also I think my father has the equipment I would need to do it myself I would just have to buy the chemicals... the foam sprayer was one of those things he bought when his company was one of the biggest on the east coast.. but even then he had no use for it haha I guess he likes toys as much as we do
happy.gif
 
Matt S.

Yepper, that's me shootin the fuzzy stuff on the roof.
I did some of it, only because the guy I hired didn't seem to have a steady hand 24 ft. in the air and got to globbing it up to much for my liking.
So I as politely as i could, told him to get the HE doubleLL down and I'd finish the high stuff, LOL

Up this way they want 85 Cents a sq. ft. per inch, sooooo, you tell them you only want an inch.
(There's no way they can spray just an inch), so you end up with 2 to 3" for the price of one.
 
My cub space is crammed into a corner in our barn with a dirt floor and not so great lighting conditions. I am gettin relocated! To a 30x13 area that will get a concrete floor, and insulated walls. The 13ft side has a 10ft opening perfect size for a garage (overhead) door the 30ft side has some small doors. I currently have 6 lgts and plan for more in the future. Which side would be best for a overhead door? We will be running a separate underground electrical supply to it as the current supply to the barn is overloaded as is. I will have aroud 8 110v outlits and several lights.What size wire should I use? It is 215ft between my space and the power source. Any other thoughts/suggestions will greatly be appreciated.
 
Lucas if it was me I would pull #6 wire and put in a nice deep ground rod at the building.
just my .02 cents
 

Latest posts

Back
Top