When I had a K301A from my first Cub Cadet, a 126, that DROPPED A BALANCE GEAR IN THE ROTATING ASSEMBLY, the machinist, recommended leaving the balance gears out. It was the the first time he had rebuilt a Kohler K-single that had failed balance gears.
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J
jott
Guest
Hey guys, im lost with whatever you are talking about with the frankenstein bolts? can someone fill me in?
Ryan W, yes that was a "C" not a zero.
Scott S, I put the QA mule drive on my CC 100 and the 123 as well. Both tractors used the same belt that came with the mower and the 124 when I bought it. So the mule drive should work ok.
My 123 also leaks by the carbbut only drips. I cant sit there and see it, but if i leave it sit and come back i will notice it. There is just a rubber hose going from the sediment bulb to the carb, so i put a hose clamp on the coonection by the carb. And you may not beleive this, but it started dripping like crazy! So idk what awas going on there, but needless to say i took the clamp off.
Ryan W, yes that was a "C" not a zero.
Scott S, I put the QA mule drive on my CC 100 and the 123 as well. Both tractors used the same belt that came with the mower and the 124 when I bought it. So the mule drive should work ok.
My 123 also leaks by the carbbut only drips. I cant sit there and see it, but if i leave it sit and come back i will notice it. There is just a rubber hose going from the sediment bulb to the carb, so i put a hose clamp on the coonection by the carb. And you may not beleive this, but it started dripping like crazy! So idk what awas going on there, but needless to say i took the clamp off.
Scott,
The only thing that might be a problem is the vertical alignment of the PTO and mule drive pulleys. I don't know if a QA drive fits to a 123 correctly. The belt should go straight down (red arrow) from the PTO to the mule drive pulleys. The belt should not be angled forward or backward (blue arrow). The red arrow and belt in the picture appear to be not aligned, ignore that. The leading edge of the mule drive pulleys should be directly below the front edge of the PTO pulley, so the belt is perfectly vertical in this location.
This image is for QA mule drive, but you should get the idea.
Jim
The only thing that might be a problem is the vertical alignment of the PTO and mule drive pulleys. I don't know if a QA drive fits to a 123 correctly. The belt should go straight down (red arrow) from the PTO to the mule drive pulleys. The belt should not be angled forward or backward (blue arrow). The red arrow and belt in the picture appear to be not aligned, ignore that. The leading edge of the mule drive pulleys should be directly below the front edge of the PTO pulley, so the belt is perfectly vertical in this location.
This image is for QA mule drive, but you should get the idea.
Jim
J
jott
Guest
Walter H, As long as the holes line up mostly everything should be the same.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Walter-
You'll need a different clutch driver and different spacers under the engine, as well as a 682/782/1810/1811 etc muffler and PTO clutch. Throttle and choke cable might need to be changed.
You'll need a different clutch driver and different spacers under the engine, as well as a 682/782/1810/1811 etc muffler and PTO clutch. Throttle and choke cable might need to be changed.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
A clutch driver from a 70-128.
Rich, the balance gears roll on studs that are pressed into the block.The studs were worn to the point that you could actually feel a ridge where the needle bearings wore the stud shafts. So I also replaced the studs.I personally cannot believe this thing is rattling. It only rattles when it warms up. Not loud like a knock, but rattles. I know its those gears. Its gotta be. Freakin ticks me off.Dont know if im supposed to say this,but, I've got over 1000 buks into this engine.Parts where around 800. Crank alone was 250.I restored this thing so it would last me the rest of my life as a special toy. I bought it when I was around 19 yrs old. I used it for landscaping projects. Mostly hauling and grading ect. Not too much cutting grass. As I used to own a landscape company.Tractor has alot of meaning, memories and personal value to me.Im 40 now... So I totally restored it.And it freakin rattles....Other than that, it runs beautifully. Not a skip or a miss in it.Sounds like a harley! LOL. Ticks the neighbors off when I start it up at 11 at night...
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Timothy T. I noticed the Keepsake 1650 balance gears (didn't get a chance to remove them yet like I wanted to) rattle at high rpm. So does the black replacement engine in the 125. The local mechanic listened to the Keepsake 1650 and then ran his JD 140 to show how that sound is a common sound with those gears. Annoying to say the least however apparently it is a "trademark feature."
Off to work. Everyone have a great day.
Off to work. Everyone have a great day.
Hello guys , I was working on my 129 yesterday and I ran some wires for the rear lights and front lights. I think I will have to run it next week. the Boss says we are taking the 5th wheel and going away for 4 days
. But the 129 is soon ready to use. I have to take it back to get the hyd hoses sorted neater so I can put the hood and grill back on and that will be it for the 129, I`am looking at a 1512 D and well I think it should be painted RED this winter.If I do that 3 will be painted this winter(104/O/1512).
I`am thinking a 1512 D would look cool painted Red and would look like a 782 D . I do like the looks of it and plan to use the rearend out of a 109 in it./ Have a great Cub Day all ... Later Don T
I`am thinking a 1512 D would look cool painted Red and would look like a 782 D . I do like the looks of it and plan to use the rearend out of a 109 in it./ Have a great Cub Day all ... Later Don T
Timothy T., have you checked to be sure that the rattle is not the front PTO? They can cause a rattle that sounds like it's something inside the block.
Scott S., for comparison...
Scott S., for comparison...
Kraig McC.,
That's an excellent pic of a 122 Narrow Frame (NF) Cub with a bolt-on mule drive as was used on Cubs built before Cub serial # 218009.
To my old, blurly eyes, that 122 looks as though it has the hole in the frame for the Frankenstein Bolts...were they all that way?
Ryan
That's an excellent pic of a 122 Narrow Frame (NF) Cub with a bolt-on mule drive as was used on Cubs built before Cub serial # 218009.
To my old, blurly eyes, that 122 looks as though it has the hole in the frame for the Frankenstein Bolts...were they all that way?
Ryan
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Tim T.-
I've heard the CAM can also make that rattle sound if it isn't set a little on the tighter side of the spec in the manual.
Just another thing to look for...
I've heard the CAM can also make that rattle sound if it isn't set a little on the tighter side of the spec in the manual.
Just another thing to look for...
Ryan, that photo is from the 1x2/3 brochure. That hole you are seeing is NOT in the location of the Frankenstein bolt. If you look close, you'll see a second hole just rear of it, note that it blends in with the tire. Those two holes are in all the narrow frames, even the 70/100 series and they are slightly rearward of the Frankenstein bolt hole.
From the QA mower deck manual...
Kraig McC.,
Ahh,, gottcha.
If I'm reading/understanding that Cub manual page correctly, they don't use/recommend installing the "Frankenstein bolts" when installing a QA lift frame/mule drive onto an earlier Cub, correct? In other words, Scott S. doesn't need them to run them with QA mule on his 123 Cub, correct?
Ryan Wilke
Ahh,, gottcha.
If I'm reading/understanding that Cub manual page correctly, they don't use/recommend installing the "Frankenstein bolts" when installing a QA lift frame/mule drive onto an earlier Cub, correct? In other words, Scott S. doesn't need them to run them with QA mule on his 123 Cub, correct?
Ryan Wilke
BINGO!
