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Archive through September 29, 2015

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Earl,

Pull your carb again and remove the emulsion tube from the the center of the carb. This takes a hollow ground slotted screwdriver that exactly fits the slot to avoid messing it up.

There are 2 little holes in the center of the tube, run a tag wire through them and make sure they are clear.

Then blow compressed air through all of the passages and reassemble.

As Gerry said, if the points are between .016 and .020 and you see a line in the window, it isn't out of time bad enough to be an issue.....
 
Good evening, All. I'm in the process of installing a different coil on Fancy's 1650s electric pto clutch. I set the air space at 0.12. The coil is tested and real good condition. If I turn the switch on before trying start the tractor the switch won't let the tractor start (as it should). When the tractor is running the switch turned on I still can't get power to the clutch. The wires appear to be in good condition. I hope that I've explained things well enough. If so... what am I overlooking? TIA
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Marlin, With the key on and the engine not running, does the clutch engage? you should be able to hear it click when you hit the switch.

Is the fuse good?

could be a bad switch.
Try wiggling it with the key on to see if you can get the clutch to engage.
 
Marlin-

0.12" is about 10x the air gap setting in the manual. If that's really the air gap, that is probably why it isn't working.
 
Gerry: 129 Issues
I tweaked the timing using the timing mark and my ear and it ran better. It even sound better. I don't know if it is perfect but if need be I will tweak it again. I might have it. The timing was the problem.
Thanks everyone for the comments. This is a great sight.

Earl
 
John M., supply and demand has a big effect on the price of attachments. Up here I've seen QA42s or QA42As in good condition run anywhere from free for the hauling to $250.
 
My second QA42 was around $100.00; came with a running (smoking) 149, 48" deck and push blade . I wish E-Town wasn't so far from my place, John...
 
heres me snow throwing

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Gerry, I agree with you. These engines are not that picky when it comes to exact timing. But I don't know either of the 2 measurements you mentioned, cause if I want that much control over the timing, I'd use a crank trigger and electronic ignition. No points, no problem.... If I need more timing, just adjust the crank trigger while running and pointing a timing light at mark on the flywheel. It doesn't even have to be in the factory location. We put it somewhere you can see it. But we don't run any engine tins either, that makes thing loads easier.

I'm finally putting together a stock-ish 128 for my 6 yr old son to run next season. It's gonna use E85. E85 likes lots of advance timing and compression. So I will have to mess with points on it
 

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