Archive through September 29, 2015

[nwerstler]

David, Where did you get the replacement bushings at? I am in need of a new rear, but have been unable to find them anytwehre

 

[dschwandt]

Charlie probably has 'em
711-3005 rear
IH-384837-R1 front

 

[kide]

Earl: I'd be a little leery of an engine running as you describes - usually a deep knock under acceleration or load is crank related, usually main bearings. If that is the case and it won't handle a high load without quitting, you could possibly soon have a new way of seeing inside the crankcase, since I'd say it's possibly the main bearings not going 'round and 'round..

 

[wshytle]

Nathan-

I was recently in TSC (tractor supply) and found 3/4" collars, two to a pack for $5 or so. They have one side tapped with a set screw but it won't get in the way. You will need to drill holes for the roll pin if used in the front. I used one for the same purpose and it does just fine. If used in the rear you may need to grind the thickness down a bit to protect the oil pan.

Just my .02 worth.

.

 

[jmitchell]

Jbaker...Man that is some deep looking snow you are pushing there..What are you doing for extra weight and what type and size rear tire are you running to get that kinda traction? I have 23x10.5x12 turfs and a set of 2 link chains on the way..I was watching some Youtube videos on filling the rear tires with windshield washer fluid..The guy remarked the 23x10.5x12 tires will hold right at 5 gallons per wheel..If it weighs out the same as water, thats about 40 lbs extra weight per wheel. That's seems like a pretty cheap means of adding 80lbs on the drive end..

Were the snowthrowers more of a hassle or just more upkeep than they are worth when comparing the blade VS the snowthrower? What is a fair price for one that is decent shape?

Thanks for letting me pick your brain!

Regards
John

 

[elamott]

Gerry:
Thank you for your comment. I did have the piston and rod off and the bearing looked OK. There was no scarring. Also the noise is not a sharp knock like a rod more like pound. This is a new one for me.
Earl

 

[elamott]

Wayne and anyone else: 129 issues
Thanks again for comments. I again looked for the S on the flywheel. I used a small wire brush and through the hole on housing I scrubbed all around the flywheel and look very closely for the S. All I could see is one line going sideways the is as long as the sight hole and a second one that is shorter going up and down and could be a T. I am thinking of setting the timing between the two. I have the point slayer so I can dial in where I want the timing to be.
Another question.
Am I correct that the ignition on this motor fires every revaluation, therefore finding when the piston is at TDC on compression stroke is not crucial? With the compression release, it is difficult to determine the compression stroke and when it is TDC
Again any comments appreciated.
I am hoping the timing change will make a difference
Earl

 

[rvanmersbergen]

Hey all, saw a IH cart in a photo for sale, had sloped back like #1 and rest of the box was square like #2 cart.and no fenders. what is this?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ray, most likely it's a #3 trailer.

 

[jbaker]

John as far as weight I have a 24 pound ih wheel weight on each side and a homemade weight of 80 pounds on the back.
I also run 3 link chains on 23x10.5x12 turfs. don't fill your tires they will rust out the rims -jmho-.
as far as the throwers go, if I did not have gravel I would a thrower because when they are dialed in they will put it far away. but the gravel is my deal breaker. So not a hassle to keep up but not great in gravel

And yes my 169 will push thru a lot of deep snow

 

[kmcconaughey]

John M., I've been using a QA42 snowthrower on a Cub Cadet 125 since I was about 10 years old. That's right around 33 years going on 34.

<--(EDIT: SEE Art's post above and my response...) Jeff already mentioned a few things to look for; check the 90* gearbox for slop, inspect the chain and sprockets, inspect the auger flights for excessive wear, as in are they all bent up and cracking? And check the U-joints on the drive shaft. I'll add to check the auger bearings and see if the auger turns over smoothly, check the chain tension bracket where the drive shaft connects, that is a common wear point. It's an aluminum casting and the thrust of the drive shaft wears on the cast aluminum. Check the wear on the skids on each end of the auger housing for wear, there will be plenty... And lastly check the wear strip on the bottom of the auger housing, it is reversible but it might be worn on both edges. They are belt driven from the PTO to a 90* gearbox, then there's a drive shaft from the gear box. The other end of the drive shaft has a sprocket that has a chain drive to the auger. As to how do they work on gravel, I have a gravel driveway so I typically drive on it the first snow fall or three to pack it into a 2-3" base. Then for the first time I use the snowthrower I hold it up a bit. Some gravel ends up in the yard but not too much. Come spring I walk along the drive and pick up the gravel and toss it back into the driveway when I walk out to the mail box and back or just while enjoying the nice spring weather after a long winter.

Here's a few photos of my driveway and one detail of the tractor and snowthrower.

EDIT: I heat with wood and I clear the snow from the area around the wood piles., Photo above. This area is grass and uneven ground so I hold the snowthrower up and float it by feel over the ground. One of these years I need to install a spring assist. I have a couple of them, just need to take the time to install one...

 

[rvanmersbergen]

Thanks Kraig, thats probably it (the photo wasnt very good). What years were these made ie: series tractor?

 

[rvanmersbergen]

Never mind I see it 76 lawn tractor! By the way tell me again what that white fluffy cold stuff is again? Dont see any in FL!

 

[aaytay]

Kraig-

"I've been using a QA42 snowthrower on a Cub Cadet 125 since I was about 10 years old. That's right around 33 years going on 34."

So now you're younger than me???

LOL!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, yeah bad math on my part, it was a long day yesterday. It should be 43 going on 44.

 

[jclazar]

The first time I used my spring assist on my narrow frame model 71 I was impressed with the ease of effort required to lift the front IH blade! I wondered why I did not purchase the assist sooner!

Also, with these IH Cub Cadets, as noted in the last pictures,how nice it is to clear snow from the drive way, with nill-damage to the yard!

As I prepare my 1450 for snow removal using the IH front blade, I don't see a real need to have a spring assist on a hydraulic lift system. Of course, I'd like to know why I would so I could get one, lol!

The weather here is cold and rainy. Perfect time to paint up the blade and sub frame. Hope to mount the implement over the weekend!

 

[kide]

Earl: Unless there are two lobes on the breaker cam, no, it fires only on the compression stroke, because the breaker cam is on the camshaft, which runs at 1/2 crankshaft rpm...

 

[elamott]

Gerry:
Thanks for comment. If I am not on compression stroke it should not fire. Correct? I had it started to I should be on the correct stroke. Also if I have no S mark on flywheel (I have looked very closely)so is there a way on how time it. I have a line that goes across the sight hole and one that goes up and down and could be a T. I am going to try and time it be ear and go between the two marks.
Any thoughts on that
Earl

 

[jmitchell]

Hey thanks Kraig and Jeff..I appreciate the info and photos...Big snow where you guys live.

Turns out there is a pretty darn good video on Youtube where a man documents his rebuilding/restoring a QA42A snowthrower. Very good info.

How much should a guy expect to pay for one if it's decent condition? Judging on the amount of networking it took to track down a push blade, and then discover the same guy has a IH snowthrower as well, was indeed a surprise..I would think they are scarce as hens teeth in this area...But that being said, I might be interested in it for a "fair" price. I just don't what that is..LOL...I see them for sale, usually up north, which involves shipping and adds to the overall cost of getting one..Then it ought to be considered that "IF" you have to replace parts on it, that certainly adds to the final costs...

I'm kind of thinking 250 -300 bucks if it all is there and seems to check out, should be a fair price. What you y'all think?

Thanks a heap!
John

 

[kide]

Earl - if you can't find a timing mark , set the points between 16 and 20 thousandths - these are not as finicky as a LS-1 chevy. If you've got to be right on the money, you need one of two measurements:
1-Degrees before TDC when the points open (you need a degree wheel) or..
2-Piston depth below the deck when the points open (most accurate). To measure that, with the plug offset on the flathead, you need to pull the head off..

On one of the engines I used to work on, they gave the measurement in inches on the outside of the flywheel BTDC, but that's got to be different for each diameter flywheel...

I couldn't locate either of these in a quick search, but I'm betting our puller members know (where's Nic B: ?)...

And yes, you should only see spark on the compression stroke.