Archive through September 26, 2012

[kmcconaughey]

Scott, yes you could procure a bolt on mule drive and use that, or fab up a bracket. <font color="ff0000">UNDER EDIT: Actually, I don't think a bolt on mule drive will fit onto a QA Cub chassis...</font> I'm not sure I've ever seen a QA mule drive used to mount a blade sub-frame but it should be possible. Hydro's suggestion might also work. The blade "A" frame should come off of the sub-frame by removing a cotter key from the rod that the blade pivots on as it is raised and lowered, then the rod should be able to slide out.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Scott, just for *informational purposes*, here's a photo of a narrow frame QA blade sub-frame. And the same sub-frame mounted to a narrow frame QA Cub chassis.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Scott, I believe this is what Hydro is suggesting:

 

[sreinbolt]

Kraig and Harry-now I get it. Thanks a lot!!

 

[jbaker]

Got my much needed seat time therapy cutting, tilling, pushing

 

[kmcconaughey]

Dan, WELCOME!

Most of the parts you'd need for a 125 should still be available, either new, used or as reproductions. I have two model 125, it's my favorite Cub Cadet model. Hard to say if the particular 125 you are looking at is worth $500 or not. It really depends on condition and what, if any, optional equipment or attachments are included, and the condition of those attachments. Headlights, hydraulic lift, rear three point lift and wheel weights are examples of optional equipment. No attachments were included as standard, it could have been ordered with a mower deck, a snow thrower, rear tiller and a bunch of other attachments.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Dan, I believe I found the 125 you are looking at. That is actually a 42" mower deck. Looks like the rear of the fenders are bent up, probably from moving it by lifting it by the fenders. (BTDT cracked the fender...

) I bet they are cracked along the inside of the fender and in the photo of the rear you can see what appears to be a crack on the right hand fender. The steering column is a longer one from a older model with out the fiberglass dash, such as a 71, 102, 122 or 123. If you install the proper deep dish steering wheel it will set way high. The frame appears to have been cut out where the points are. Not an uncommon alteration, makes for easier adjusting of the points. Other than the issues I've mentioned it looks complete and not in too bad of condition. UNDER EDIT: BTW the 125 would be from 1967-1969.

 

[jsalatino]

Mike... thanks for the info, I'm prety sure he knows what he is edoin,Ive heard he does good work.good price too.Maybe thats what he meant

 

[hydroharry]

Kraig and Scott -

1st, Kraig- Oh Great One "Keeper of the Photos" - you are absolutely the GREATEST!!! Your last photos are exactly what I was suggesting. Did you go out and do that to a blade and snap the photos or did you find them in your Great Archival Album? Have you got a couple frames just lying around so you can take photos like that? You are absolutely the Greatest.

Ok Scott - well here's a little more info. To remove the sub-frame from the A-frame of the blade you have to pry or "spring" the sub-frame off the large rod welded onto the back of the A-frame. Actually you don't necessarily have to do this if you can put together the set up like Kraig shows in the next to last photo (where the sub-frame is still mounted to the blade and the additional 1/2" rod is inserted across the top ears of the sub-frame). It will take you a little work to slide the sub-frame under your tractor and connect the rear arms of the sub-frame to the rod going across the tractor frame AND at the same time slide the rod into the quick attach latch. I wish I could remember for certain if this method works. It may have a conflict with your front axle (the ears may be to short), I just don't remember for certain. I seem to recall it does work or I wouldn't have even mentioned this. If you do try to install using this method you may have to slide the sub-frame under the tractor, and just set the rod (I suggest adding) onto the edge of the quick attach slot without fully putting into the slot, and then go to the long arms and lift them up into the area where the mounting rod crosses the frame, and then slide both into place at the same time. This can depend on the U slot you have in the long arms. Some have an equal shaped U, and some have a short side on the lower part of the U. Hope you have the un-equal U (longer upper side) so your frame will sit on the frame cross rod while you get the quick attach rod fully into place. Please note that assuming my suggestion of using the 1/2" rod works, then this hole exercise is fairly easily done once you've done it a few times. It's just doing it the first time that takes some figuring out how to exactly get things into place all at the same time. Another thought/suggestion is to have a little block of wood (maybe a 6" 2x4, to stick under the back part of the A-frame while you attempt this. It will help hold the front of the sub-frame up while you try to work it into position. I don't think you can set it at the exact height of the quick attach since your cast iron grill housing extends a little below the frame of the tractor itself and tends to get into the way when trying to get the rod into position of the quick attach latch. Ok, this is enough of my 10,000 words. Kraig's photos really tell the story. Good luck and let us know how you make out. If you can take some pics and post them it would be nice to see it all installed. A link to a You-Tube video of your installation would be really nice, but you'd have to cut out the first 15 minutes of the attempt, parts where the sub-frame slips and bangs against your concrete floor, or when you happen to put your fingers between 2 pieces of metal both moving in the direction of your fingers, unless you just cut the sound out on these parts. I do wish you good luck and hope it does work.

Wayne - come on now. Hydro Howard? These titles come only with well earned experience. Hydro Howard does have a nice ring to it, but he's not eligble for the title until he's restored at least 10 cubs of varying models, both narrow and wide frame. Rules are rules. Back in the early days BGC, titles were thru annointment by the Reverend. Actually my first was Elder Harry, but I petitioned for a change to Hydro Harry and received it with great blessings (and some appropriate penance).

Mike F - I sure wish I was closer to you. Sound like you know the machinist stuff inside out, or should that be outside in? Any chance you'd be moving to the west coast or even the Great NorthWest? You've been to many other parts of the country and it's great out here but just not many Cubs.

 

[hydroharry]

Dan and Kraig - I had a look at what I think is the same 125 you're talking about. It's located up in the land of 10,000 lakes (and believe me it looks like more than 10,000 when you fly over low in a plane). In the 3rd pic showing a side view of the tractor I noticed what appears to be a bungy cord connected at the bottom of the lift arm handle that is stretched toward the front axle (but you can't see the end of it). This may be helping to hold the deck up or something. Odd thing tho, when you look at the 7th or last pic which is a front view of the tractor the bungy isn't there, so it must have been removed. Also, I see the deck has been modified and front gauge wheels have been added instead of the original steel runners. This might be a good addition but not seen it done on this style deck, and it's not original. My overall opinion would be this tractor does need restoration. It's hard to say anything about the price except maybe that a running 12hp engine has got to be worth at least a few hundred when it includes the PTO clutch, carb and Starter/Generator. So with this in mind what is the rest of the tractor worth? Tires, deck, etc., but it will need alot of work and repair parts to restore it. Dan - you could post in the Classified "Wanted" section that you are looking for a good running tractor for restoration. There are alot of guys on here that have more than one unit and occassionaly want to move one along to get going on another one, or upgrade or various other things. You would probably have a better chance at finding out more exactly what the condition of the unit is before you make a purchase. I'm not knocking eBay either, I use it for parts sometimes, but not so much for complete units do to shipping costs. Good luck with your hunt, and please be aware that you'll probably discover one unit won't be enough, and you'll soon start building a herd. Glad to see you join.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hydro, I'm not great.

The photos of the narrow frame QA blade sub-frame are ones that I took a few years back to show someone how to install it. The two with the rod installed are from the forum archives originally posted back in late 2000.

 

[jbaker]

Dan you can also post what you want in the classifieds here.

 

[hydroharry]

Jeff B - I didn't mean to leave you off the list. Looks to me like that 69 can really do some pushing. Nice and fun.

 

[ccarney]

Hey Hydro Harry

Da' lake count up here in the Land of Sky Blue Waters is actually about 15,000 don't cha kno...

 

[kmcconaughey]

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Minnesota is known as The Land of 10,000 Lakes, but the official count of lakes more than ten acres (40,000 m²) in size is approximately 11,842.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<font size="-1">SOURCE FOR ABOVE QUOTE</font>

<font size="-1">More info:</font>

<font size="-1">MN DNR Lake Facts</font>

<font size="-1">Oops, almost forgot this:</font>

 

[akleyla]

Harry,nope I think im catching on a lil

BTW,heres a question for anyone. I need to buy new tires for the back on my IH CC and currently I have turf tires on it. I use chains in the winter,never needed wheel weights but want some. My question is this...if I put AG tires on it would I still need chains in the winter or would the AG tires be enough ? Next question is where is the best place to buy new rear tires ,any ideas ?

TY ,Amy

 

[kmcconaughey]

Amy, turfs and chains, the only way to go for winter traction. Also, typically the more weight the better. I've not bought any new tires for any of my Cub Cadets in years so I can't recommend a source.

 

[akleyla]

Ok ty Kraig,now to find somewhere that sells them .

 

[dwilkinson]

Kraig: re: 10,000 lakes - up here (Ontario) 10 acres is a pond!

 

[nbextermueller]

Amy,

I use ags and 2 IH wheel weights on each rear tire and do just fine. Although chains might help. Think of chains as metal football cleats for your cub. You can walk on to a field with the best rubber trail shoe on the market but and still slip, metal cleats we're made for the wet field. Same goes for chains in the snow.

If your going to need new tires, nothing beats the look of Ags on a cub (And tri ribs out front). And personally it doesn't get any better than the Firestones. The are lots of others out there, but the 'stones will get you more traction and more high fives than any other. You can get a brand new set online at M.E. Miller tire. Google it... They are not cheap China tires, but lets be honest, the next set of tires you buy will likely be on it for the rest of your life with your cub. So get ones you like.