Archive through March 26, 2013

[aaytay]

OK, I have a confession...

I was a "doubter" about this tractor actually being as low-hour as the seller claimed. As I was studying the pics closely I noticed this:

Look at the picture of the seat. See the rear tire in the lower left hand corner? IT STILL HAS THE 'BUMPS' ON IT!!!!!!!

I'm a believer!!!!

 

[hydroharry]

Bill J - sorry I never got any further detail on the CCC stuff still sold for use in the old IH CC units. Charlie might have the answer whether it's HyTran or not. (Wouldn't surprise me if it's not, and comes from another company that claims IH Spec B-6).

David S - you know, for me it's hard when you're typing what you're thinkin, as if you were speakin - and that's why my posts tend to be a bit lengthy. If I hit the enter key every couple a sentences, well, then it will just look like it's that much longer. One thing I could do, is hit the enter key part way thru, then add the statement "And now for the rest of the story (credit to Paul Harvey)".

Charlie - that sure is a sweet 125. I had heard it supposedly was only used a few times. It is hard to tell from the pics, but I'd guess probably more than once as was mentioned. It's a very interesting find, and sure helps address exactly how things came out of the factory. I was wondering how come it's settin on a plain ole floor, and ain't up on some type of rotating pedestal for viewing? And I also don't see any signs yet that say "Do Not Touch". And forget what Kraig and some of the others said about using it. Remember - it's only "new" once, after that it's restored at best.

Scott C - I'm over in Mill Creek other side of Sound. Maybe we'll get together sometime and have a look see at that 123. There are a couple other guys here in WA that participate on here so keep posting. As for that Walbro carb, what others are telling you is not to waste your money on rebuilding it. You'll only have problems again. You can probably find a used Kohler #26 that would be the correct version for your 123 (yes there are some differences like the fuel inlet, throttle and choke connections, etc) for less than $40. You may still have to put a basic needle,seat and gasket kit into it that costs $12-15, maybe the throttle shaft repair, maybe a new float, but once you've got the #26 in good shape it will be great for 20+ years. That Walbro will drive you nuts and be a problem off and on forever.

 

[rrschmitt]

Don T/Kraig M,

From what I remember from setting up new Cub Cadets at our dealership is that the mower blades were painted white from the factory. My other observation of the mower deck picture is that I don't see any rust pits in the underside of the deck which are typically present due to wet grass crud sticking to the bottom of the deck if not being scrapped off after each use.

 

[bjames]

It looks like someone bought that 125, it's a lot more shiny from the first pics I saw of it and the chrome is cleaned up. I guess it even had the factory plastic on the seat and you can see a little left in one of the photos.

 

[mpatterson]

Reposting this on the correct board:

I am pretty sure most of you will shake your head with this topic, but I need to bring it up. Sorry!

I am still having issues with my K241 that I was working on last fall. Now I can't get it to start at all this Spring. At least last fall I was able to have it fire right up when I wanted it to.

Problem:
Not starting.

Things I have done to it prior to now:
Changed the points, coil, spark plug, spark plug wire, condensor, air filter & foam pre-cleaner, cleaned carb, replaced the needle, new carb gasket kit, timmed the engine (static method), and a new cork gasket on fuel bowl. Had the engine running after this work was completed last fall. Now this Spring, I installed a fully charged battery (same one as last fall), cleaned the connections on it as well as the ground on the frame, and the generator. I poured in fresh gas as well. When I crank it over, it seems to turn kinda slow and will not fire at all. So what have I done wrong? Originally when I kept trying to start it, thinking it just needed to get some gas flowing I ended up running the battery down. I then recharged it (while in the tractor and cables still attached). Next day when charged up again, tried it again - nothing. So thinking maybe the battery is older and getting weak, I boosted it off my battery charger, still nothing.

First off, is it a bad thing to boost these batteries? The charger I have is designed for atv's and lawn mowers, just a smaller type that plungs into the regular wall socket. Did I fry the plates in my battery? Did I fry something electrical that I had replaced in the fall?

The carb is getting gas, I can smell it. I have not flooded it because it would be almost running out the carb when I took off the air cleaner cover I am sure. I took the spark plug out, it was sort of damp, but not soaked by any means! Is it possible I have a plugged fuel line and not enough gas is getting into the carb? I am sure I am missing something stupid here and its driving me nuts!

Am I the only one who has issues starting a tractor these days? Frustrated is an understatement these past few weeks.


I value anyones help or suggestions on this matter.

If I ever get it started I will likely still end up with the same issue as last fall - it won't idle up when I shove the throttle up.

 

[bjames]

Clean the points with brown paper sack paper, even if they are new. Try changing the point gap, the points plunger may be worn.

 

[mpatterson]

Points were brand new in the fall? They wouldn't have half an hour worth of running on them yet?

 

[bjames]

Doesn't matter, clean them.

 

[hydroharry]

Mike P - you're repost says "Next day when charged up again, tried it again - nothing." Do you mean after charging the battery it's not turning over at all? Or do you mean it's still turning over slowly. I don't know if there is any issue charging the battery while it's in the tractor or not. I do know if you charged the battery and happened to leave the key switch in the "on" position, and your points just happen to be in the closed position, you will have burnt your points out, and you'll need to replace them. But you should be able to tell this by looking at the points. They were brand new and if you did this they will be all black and burnt.
If it's not turning over at all I think you have a battery problem. If it's still turning over slowly I think you have a battery problem. Try jumpering your truck battery to the tractor battery. If it turn over faster (and starts) then you have a problem with your tractor battery.

 

[lcarter]

Mike, the one suggestion I would offer is to remove the plug and after reinstalling the plug wire ground the plug to the engine. I usually use a pair of vise grips to clamp it on the engine fins. Do not clamp it next to the plug hole to observe a spark, if it does spark it will blow your hat off and scare you (guess how I found that out). Then crank it and see if you have a spark. You noted the plug was wet which should mean you have fuel. The engine should also turn over faster if the battery is OK. I agree with Harry I have never seen a correctly jumpered battery cause any problems.

 

[rbeem]

Mike P.
What weight of oil do you have in your K241?
It the tractor in a heated garage? Or out in the shed?
I noticed you are in Canada. Could the cold VS motor oil be an issue?

Is this in a Hydro or Gear drive?

 

[slent]

Greetings all,
Below is a picture of the refurbished cam levers that apply the brakes at the calipers on my 126 under restoration. They had been badly worn on the corners indicated by the arrows. The previous owner had quite sloppily welded the corners, so I machined out that weld and had a friend fill it in nice with a TiG welder. I then machined everything to hide the repair. The only thing I’m not sure about is whether there is supposed to be a radius on the corner or not. I want the parts to function correctly. I was wondering if someone has one of these parts that is not worn, they could tell me if there is supposed to be a radius there, and if so, about what size.
Thanks in advance,
Scott

 

[tbdavis]

Scott - just sent you a pic to your email of what I believe are correct brakes for your 126.

 

[slent]

Thanks Terry! That shows me exactly what I need to know.

 

[kide]

Terry - how about showing the rest of the forum????

 

[kostendorf]

Is there any difference between these kits beside the back plate on the 1100 and will either work on my 1650 that should have the pin on type lift lever. I cannot see any different part no. between the two.

CUB CADET WIDE FRAME 1100 SLEEVE / THREE POINT HITCH KIT 74805C91

CUB CADET WIDE FRAME SLEEVE / THREE POINT HITCH KIT 73080C91

 

[tbdavis]

Gerry - would love to post pics but my wife hasn't found time to help me learn how. I'm a complete moron on that kind of stuff (well, other stuff too) so at her mercy.

 

[mpatterson]

As per Bill, I will remove the cover for the points and clean them. Hopefully they will not be blackend and burnt?

Harry, The next day it still cranked over slowly. Never did get it to fire. Pretty sure the key was shut off when charging. Only time it would be turned on is when I tried to boost it, so the time it took me to move my hand from the key switch to the push button.

Larry, good point! Wouldn't want to loose what hair I have left doing that.

Rick, Not sure what is in it for oil, I have yet to change it. I would only have about 2 or 3 hours on the tractor since I have bought it. I have never got around to changing it yet. It needs to be changed, I know that, but need to get it running long enought too in order to warm it up to drop the oil. Yep, in Canada, cooler weather here. The one day I tried starting it, I had heated up the garage with my propane heater enough that I could stand in there in just a sweater. Sorry, I guess I should have mentioned that. Its in a '64 100.

Appreciate the input guys. Just hope I have the time to try the suggestions out this weekend!

 

[jharvey]

Mike
Sometimes new points right out of the package have a film that needs to be removed for good contact. I'm thinking that is what Bill is referring to and not that the points are burnt. If you have a VOM, remove the points wire from the coil, connect one lead to this wire and the other lead to ground. Rotate the engine by hand and watch the meter for 0 ohms when the points close.

 

[fcurrier]

Is it time to mention the Automatic Compression Release (ACR) to Mike?