jbaker
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- jeff l baker
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Archive through September 25, 2015
- Thread starter jbaker
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
lpalma
Well-known member
mgwin
Well-known member
O.T. Friday is over, now back to our regularly scheduled program.
Wanted to go to a antique tractor show today and see what cub cadets were there. It's been raining for two days, so I guess I'll have to sit and look at mine.
Charlie,
Found any more goodies lately?
Wanted to go to a antique tractor show today and see what cub cadets were there. It's been raining for two days, so I guess I'll have to sit and look at mine.
Charlie,
Found any more goodies lately?
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mgwin
Well-known member
Hey guys I appreciate the photos..Whoever said a picture is worth a thousand words, said a mouth full!
Does anyone here have any experiences with shipping a complete pushblade/snow plow set-up? Any ideas on costs and various shipping companies? It look's like I'm gonna strike out finding one locally.
Does anyone here have any experiences with shipping a complete pushblade/snow plow set-up? Any ideas on costs and various shipping companies? It look's like I'm gonna strike out finding one locally.
John, Ya might try Fastenal
I hear they can take stuff from one store to another if it's on a pallet. If you have a store in your local and the shipper also does, this may be your out.
I hear they can take stuff from one store to another if it's on a pallet. If you have a store in your local and the shipper also does, this may be your out.
On a narrow frame (122) do the wires for the safety switch go down through the hole where the steering column comes up through the tunnel?
Rebuilding/ cleaning the steering column from my original. There are 10 ball bearings on either end of the shaft and no retainers. The replacement parts have only 8 ball bearings, which include retainers. Are the new parts compatible or should I stick with the original parts. Thanks in advance..Joe
Doug A.
It should fit through the pedestal mount, under the battery box and up under the dash just fine.
Joe D.
Your post made me to take apart a NOS O steering column, cause I've never seen 10 inside one.
And I only found 8 in that one.
Plus there was a used one close, so I popped it open and only 8 in that one too.
UNLESS, IH did something goofy for a short run of them, and if they did. I'm bettin Paul or Myron will know for sure.
It should fit through the pedestal mount, under the battery box and up under the dash just fine.
Joe D.
Your post made me to take apart a NOS O steering column, cause I've never seen 10 inside one.
And I only found 8 in that one.
Plus there was a used one close, so I popped it open and only 8 in that one too.
UNLESS, IH did something goofy for a short run of them, and if they did. I'm bettin Paul or Myron will know for sure.
John,
I had my 42" push blade shipped via UPS.
The person selling on eb*y was willing to disassemble and send it in two boxes.
Just the blade was in one box and the rest was is the other.
The only draw back was the blade was is bad shape and the seller did not represent it very well.
Jim
I had my 42" push blade shipped via UPS.
The person selling on eb*y was willing to disassemble and send it in two boxes.
Just the blade was in one box and the rest was is the other.
The only draw back was the blade was is bad shape and the seller did not represent it very well.
Jim
Hi all its been years since i have posted; I just wanted to share a little trick that works for the tappered Timkin style bearings that appear to be loose and noisy. If you take your spindle apart and the races and bearings look good. you can get a bunch more life out of them by simply taking some material off of the cone spacer, its the small round one that has the slit in it for grease to pass thru. I do this by getting a sheet of 400 grit emery paper. Lay it on a very flat surface like a table saw and work the cone spacer in figure 8 (with some W-D 40) until 4 to 10 thou. .004 - .010" is removed. Dry fit the spindle a few times so you know you are not going to far. You still need some clearance for heat expansion and grease but it really works great to remove excessive play. Just be very careful that you don't go to far. Also it does take some effort to remove the material as the spacer is pretty hard. I did this on a 44 in deck that was noisy and vibrated really bad and now its smooth and quiet.
Matt
Matt
J
jclazar
Guest
Marty, Nice narrow frame!
Well, I have my back up light wired on my 1450. I just got a really nice and straight IH 42" front snow blade. No sub frame, but I called up Hauck and Ron gave me a good deal on one for my blade! I'm in the process of painting the front of the blade, and the sub frame! Also, picked up a nice set of heavy duty v-bar, 4-link 23 x 10.50 x 12 tire chains! I've been running the four link "cleated" on my former model 71, and currently have a new set of twisted two link on my model 72.
I have to admit, my tractor had just as good of bite with the four link as the two link.
My 1450 will be earning it's keep all winter! I can't wait. No more paying for that plow guy!
I cant say enough nice things about this group! I enjoy the read and pictures. Thank you fellow enthusiasts!
Well, I have my back up light wired on my 1450. I just got a really nice and straight IH 42" front snow blade. No sub frame, but I called up Hauck and Ron gave me a good deal on one for my blade! I'm in the process of painting the front of the blade, and the sub frame! Also, picked up a nice set of heavy duty v-bar, 4-link 23 x 10.50 x 12 tire chains! I've been running the four link "cleated" on my former model 71, and currently have a new set of twisted two link on my model 72.
I have to admit, my tractor had just as good of bite with the four link as the two link.
My 1450 will be earning it's keep all winter! I can't wait. No more paying for that plow guy!
I cant say enough nice things about this group! I enjoy the read and pictures. Thank you fellow enthusiasts!
Hey thanks Dschwandt..I submitted a request for a cost quote with Fastenal, last week, and got an email saying they had gotten the quote and that a Fastenal rep would be contacting me, but so far I have not heard a thing back out of them..So I guess I'll see if there is a phone number for their logistics dept and give them a call..
Jpadgett...How much did it cost you the have the snow plow set-up shipped to you? How far was the distance required?
Thanks y'all
John
Jpadgett...How much did it cost you the have the snow plow set-up shipped to you? How far was the distance required?
Thanks y'all
John
John M.
That shipment was about 15 years ago, even if I could remember the cost the rate wouldn't apply today.
The two boxes are going to weigh about 50-60 lbs each. The blade box would be 44"x18"x8" and weighs 60 lbs, enter that info into a UPS shipping calculator.
Jim
That shipment was about 15 years ago, even if I could remember the cost the rate wouldn't apply today.
The two boxes are going to weigh about 50-60 lbs each. The blade box would be 44"x18"x8" and weighs 60 lbs, enter that info into a UPS shipping calculator.
Jim
OH YEAHHHHHH! Found a grader blade set-up locally, probably not 10 miles from my house! Yes! No shipping hassles and no extra costs involved...150 bucks..Which I think is a pretty squared up fair deal.
The elderly gentleman has a IH QA snowthrower as well..I'm not sure about the size. But I will be finding out Saturday when I pick up the blade after work.
OK..some questions for the brain trust...What are some of the less obvious things to watch/look for when checking out one of the IH snowthrowers? How are they driven? Are bearings and universal joints still available?
The BIG question...Is it possible/suitable to use one of the Snowthrowers on gravel drives? I mean..I doubt you'd want to scoop up rocks with the lower lip on the bottom, but if you set the lift arm on the tractor to where the thrower is sitting an inch off the grown, do they work?
How much should one pay for one in decent shape?
Thank guys..You all have been and are a tremendous help..
Regards
John Mitchell
The elderly gentleman has a IH QA snowthrower as well..I'm not sure about the size. But I will be finding out Saturday when I pick up the blade after work.
OK..some questions for the brain trust...What are some of the less obvious things to watch/look for when checking out one of the IH snowthrowers? How are they driven? Are bearings and universal joints still available?
The BIG question...Is it possible/suitable to use one of the Snowthrowers on gravel drives? I mean..I doubt you'd want to scoop up rocks with the lower lip on the bottom, but if you set the lift arm on the tractor to where the thrower is sitting an inch off the grown, do they work?
How much should one pay for one in decent shape?
Thank guys..You all have been and are a tremendous help..
Regards
John Mitchell
My K301 cranks over fine with no plug in it. Won't crank past compression with the plug in. Pull the cam cover off and it looks like the ACR tab is broken off the flyweight. Chances are this engine isn't going to start with no ACR correct?
elamott
Well-known member
I have a question on my 129.
I have worked on just about everything but I still have a problem. The engine runs OK at first (it vibrates more than it should but otherwise OK) but after a short while it will start to pound(not a nock) and then stop. If I bring it to an idle it will keep running but not at a high speed with a load. I was thinking carb problem but I have put a carb kit in with a new high speed needle and have tried adjusting the jets. The adjustments will make it worse or a little bit better but I cannot get rid of the problem. Also it will pound when I increase the RPMs quickly. I have a point slayer ignition with a new coil and the timing is close. The timing mark (There is no S just a line)is in the sight hole. Not dead center but I can see it.
Does anyone have a thought of what might cause this?
Any thoughts greatly appreciated as I am about out of ideas.
Earl
I have worked on just about everything but I still have a problem. The engine runs OK at first (it vibrates more than it should but otherwise OK) but after a short while it will start to pound(not a nock) and then stop. If I bring it to an idle it will keep running but not at a high speed with a load. I was thinking carb problem but I have put a carb kit in with a new high speed needle and have tried adjusting the jets. The adjustments will make it worse or a little bit better but I cannot get rid of the problem. Also it will pound when I increase the RPMs quickly. I have a point slayer ignition with a new coil and the timing is close. The timing mark (There is no S just a line)is in the sight hole. Not dead center but I can see it.
Does anyone have a thought of what might cause this?
Any thoughts greatly appreciated as I am about out of ideas.
Earl
