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Archive through September 24, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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elamott

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 17, 2004
Messages
274
Location
Burnsville, MN 55337
displayname
Earl LaMott
Sorry this is late but I have been away from the computer for a while.
Charlie, you said that I should post the link and part number of the roller chain sprocket for the power shaft on the QA 42 snow blower so here it is.
http://www.grainger.com

Part--Sprocket, 2.490 Od,#40
Item # 1L119

Hope this helps someone
Earl
 
I am attempting to repair the trunion slot on my 1250.

I have the tractor split. But how do I remove the trunion and shaft from the pump? The only thing I see is the circlip on the shaft on the other side of the pump, but I do not want to try that without proper instructions.

I have looked at the trunion repair FAQ, the tractor Service Manual and the Hydro Service Manual and I still don't see the instructons.

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
Ken-

The trunion shaft is two pieces and join to the pump swash plate. The pump HAS to be opened to access the trunion shaft. You don't really need to remove the shaft to do the repair. It does make it a lot easier but it may the harder route here. I shield the pump when welding on the slot. It doesn't take much to rebuild/replace the worn area and it's far enough away from the shaft/lip seal so heat usually isn't a factor. It only requires a small amount of welding too.

If you decide on the other route then the charge pump will be the first thing you remove from the pump. Pay attention to the orientation (top and bottom) so it goes back the exact same way. The shafts are fastened to the swashplate using small roll pins. They have an exact distance to travel for proper removal. There are also two different types of roll pin application. One will "bottom out" and the shaft should slide out with the roll pin in the hole in the shaft. The other is a little more tricky and you have to pay attention to the depth you drive the pin. You also won't really know which you're dealing with until the swashplate is out. The secret to the second type is keep trying to turn the shaft after each little tap on the pin. When the pin is in the shaft it should turn and come on out. I'm not sure but I think there are two pins on the trunion side and only one on the other so don't think you lost one. This is one of those things that once you have done it it's a lot easier to understand.

Hope this helps.
 
Ken-

I forgot to mention you have to remove (lift out) the pump block that houses nine little pistons. This is the round thing that looks like the revolving part of a revolver pistol.

Keep everything as clean as possible. You don't want to get ANY dirt inside the pump. It will also pay for you to make the wooden block stand with two holes described in the manual.
 
Wayne,

Thanks a lot!

The FAQ write up goes from showing the worn trunion on a tractor and the next picture shows the repair being made with the trunion and shaft mounted in a vise. Oh well, I will wrap a wet rag around the trunion. The MIG should not heat it up too much anyway.

Thanks again.
 
OK sounding like the crabby ol fart you used to make fun of as a kid............When the hell did tire companies start using a different ruler??? I have a set of what looks like original 23 X 8.50 X 23's tires that I was going to change with a set of Carlile 23 X 9.50 X 23's. The Carlile's are 1 1/2" shorter. WTH!
 
Well, I'm hoping that tomorrow is a good day for a drive and a visit to go see the 123 in the earlier picture. It seems well cared for and owned by a guy willing to spend a lot of email time detailing the condition.

This is a whole lot more fun process than buying a tin mower at the Big Box store! I've really enjoyed reading all the threads and pix about the Cadets.
 
Tom, same issue happened with the lumber companies, how longs it been since a 2x4 was actually 2x4?! These days you get less product at half the quality for twice the price! Irritating to say the least. My goodyear turfs on my cub were true 23x10.50-12's and the carlisle tru powers (right after they became Carlisle instead of Titan) of the same size are both shorter and a little narrower than the turfs were. Go figure!
 
Glen - Young feller ... dressed 2x4s have never been 2x4. They are 2x4 when sawn but then they dress them 1/4" on all sides.

Tom - ye ol fart how is a tire "shorter" ?
Did you cut it in two and stand it up against the wall and mark it with a Crayon over it's head ??

If you mean the diameter is smaller , did you put the recommended 183 psi in it ?
That will definitely make'em taller
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Buy the NEW redesigned tape measure that has every 4th mark removed (to save paint and the environment) and they may be the same. Of course it cost $7.98 more than the "old style" but hey , it's Recession 2011 !
 
I got the clutch assembly removed from the 104 this afternoon. Thanks to all who helped me with it. I guess sometimes instead of rushing you just need to step back and take a break.

John B. good luck on your 123 today. I have had a 1250 eyeballed for 2yrs. Poor thing is sitting outside just rusting. You can only see it when the leaves are off the trees. I have stopped and asked 2 times so far about it, left contact info. But no callback so I will leave it alone. I actually have looked at it with family members but the old fella who owns it wont sell I guess
 
Ken, the old house I live in has 2x8's for floor beams...the REAL 2inches x 8inches ! Wanted to get some steel support plates to secure them to the main beam better. Ooops, they only fit NEW 2x stock. Someone said supports for 'Lam-beams' may fit.
<font size="-2">Finished lumber... an 1/8th off each side for total 1/4 inch ?? (1-3/4 x 3-3/4 ??)</font>
I'm gonna use 2x2's to frame my tractor for the winter with a cammo tarp, give it a little more ventilation.
 
Ken,
That's pretty much what I did. I got the ol' 4 foot level and stick ruler out and measured from top of tire to the ground. What pi$$es me off is now you gotta' relevel the deck. I think I'm-a-gonna' let them rest in the shed for awhile.
 
I bought a coil with a resistor inside today at Farm&Fleet for $20. It is made in China. I will try it tomarrow. Thanks for your help.
 
So, I repaired the trunion slot and installed new springs today on the 1250. It definitely holds its speed better when transitioning uphill or downhill.

However, it now bucks like a mechanical bull. It seems to be worse when trying to slow down. It is like you are falling down 2 or 3 stairs. Or, rapid fire downshifting of a manual transmission.

I think that I read another FAQ about subsequent repairs after the trunion fix. It is time to figure out what the next project will be.

Wayne, thanks for the trunion info earlier today.

I also got an implement handle helper spring installed. I am sure it will help with the snow blade or snow thrower.
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Put a new head gasket on the 126 today. Seems to run a little better. Cleaned up the carbon. In the manual it says to soak gasket in water before installing. Anyone know why?
 
Melody-

That no longer applies...modern head gaskets don't need that.

Ken-

That's probably going to be as good as it gets, to some degree. The hydro linkage on the QL tractors is unnecessarily complex and really hard to get to operate smoothly compared to an 82 series.
 
Certain materials needed the water to make them set.

20 - 30's used this material.

I didn't after that.
 
Matt, Thanks,

I still have some issues with the 1250. It does not seem to move as fast as it should it either forward or reverse. The manual says 0-8 mph forward and 0-4 mph in reverse. I am definitely not there.

The new (to me) 782 is much faster.

On the other hand, while testing out the trunion repair, an accidental wheelie, at about 1/2 throttle. I won't be doing that anymore, I don't need a broken axle, etc.
 
Tom,

What rim is it on and was it designed for that rim.....height has a lot to do with rim width.

AND....some tires are crappier than others!!!!
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