Archive through September 12, 2010

[pvanbenschoten]

Kraig, Thanks for the Hydro schematic, I did find the lubrication section of the operators manual which mentions this area also.

Over the weekend I removed the steering gear/column so greasing the speed control cam was easy. I also loosened the nut under the friction spring about a turn. It is easier to move the brake pedal now. Still not perfect, but much better. Time will tell if I loosened the hydro adjustment lever too much.

 

[dfrisk]

ART - No problem. If the worst happens, I have a good 123 grill and most of a chassis. And I'm looking for a good "cheap" 70/100 grill.

 

[tillenden]

What options are there for putting a hitch ball on my tractor? I know I can put one on the hitch plate, but it is so low that it does not work well with my snowmobile trailer. It would be for my 128 and it does have the rear lift.

I am also going to be picking up a 149 in the next week or so to. The wife did not even say anything. I have not told her I am picking up a QA42A blower and another blade. I'll be able to move some snow this winter!

 

[jott]

Dennis, what do you consider cheap? I know of someone up in appleton that might sell one for $20-$25. i saw it yesterday. its in pretty good shape.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Todd, if you have a rear lift hitch, Xtreme Motorworks, see the link above, sells a sleeve hitch to ball adapter. Or if you're handy with a welder you could fab up one. Richard C. made two styles a few years back for himself but he shared the photos of them. One won't work with the rear lift, one will work with it.

 

[mmeyer]

Hello all!!

hey guys - need some help again... i have installed the 46GT deck under my 682 - i had no idea what belt to use from the motor to the deck, so i measured and used a Gates B99 belt. it worked, and mowed fantastic, but the belt is coming apart - i dont think this belt likes the compound bends it has to make. my question is what belt should i be using? thanks all!!!

 

[dfrisk]

JOSH - I was told there was a FREE grill casting with my name on it at the bottom of a MOUNTAIN of CC castings in Campbellsport, WI.

I'd like to trade the 123 grill since I have no use for it. Also keep out-of-pocket cash to a minimum except for some gas money.

TODD I. - There's been many ball hitches & reciever tubes put on the back of CC's. Just takes some imagination, some steel, and access to a welder really helps. I suspect KRAIG will post a few pictures of them when he has time. ALSO, check the colorful link above for XTREME Motorworks. They sell bolt-on 2" reciever tubes & ball mount hitches that go right on the sleeve hitch so the ball is adjustable with the lift lever for height.

 

[aaytay]

Kraig-
Yes, somebody cut and folded the battery box flat, so that a large automotive style battery would fit it.

...but I don't think the battery is good anymore since one entire BANK of caps is missing and it looks like there is MOSS growing inside the battery.

 

[jott]

Dennis, is that so. just thought id throw it out there.

 

[dfrisk]

JOSH - The CC Operation/Restoration/Preservation fund has taken a REALLY big hit here lately. The new grill casting is something I will need but it's not a priority right now. At least I know what they should be worth. THANKS!

ART - I wasn't aware there was ANY kind of moss that would grow in a sulfuric acid mixture.

I think it's a Group #26 battery fits right into a NF CC battery tray, the hold down bracket may have to be modified along with the connections on the battery leads. That's what I've used for years on the #72. DAD bent up the battery tray on the CC 70 to fit a large car battery in it yrs ago. Only normal L&G battery I have in a CC is the 425 CCA battery in the 982. And IMHO, it's too small.

My Buddy has a neat little sheetmetal bending brake I'll have to try out sometime and bend up a new stock-size tray for the 70. And THAT's only a small part of the repair work this 70 needs on the steering column. Think I counted about 15 holes from 1/8" dia. to 1 inch dia. that have to be welded up yet. We're also recessing the ignition key switch like IH did on the 72/104/5/124/5. Don't want any more broken ign. keys, OR the toggle switch Dad installed!

 

[dross]

Art, I wouldn't wish a narrow frame hydro on my worst enemy

 

[kmcconaughey]

Denny, moss usually requires an acidic environment to grow, or at least it grows best in a slightly acidic environment. Even so I'm surprised it could grow at all in an environment that acidic. Moss shows up in strange places.

 

[dfrisk]

KRAIG - Someone must have tended those green plants VERY well. I have a terrible time getting green stuff other than crab grass to grow in dirt!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Denny, no tending done to those, due more to neglect. That is a Cadet Hydro 80 that I used to have. It went to Steve B. a few years back.

 

[dfrisk]

DAVE - Art's handy with a welder. He shouldn't have ANY problem creating a removable center cover for that NF.

I'm sure Art will do the trunnion repair & hydro gasket R&R before anything else.

I'm just curious if he'll use the 123 frame or the 147 frame?

 

[vthomley]

Art is very good at welding up trunion repairs!

Nice collection you have there Art. My inside sources tell me you might be using the 147 frame, extending the tunnel, maybe roundy fenders, and a 123 grill - with either a 123 hood or a 147 hood. I think I learned all this by watching sports center this weekend!

 

[mgonitzke]

Art-

You better preemptively replace all the usual maintenance items on there before you put the loader on. I was going to put together a NF hydro for mine, and then I had to fix one little thing on the 124, and then quickly decided against that idea. I would also say you can probably get away with a K241. I have a K321 and am starting to wish it was a K241...it would certainly shake less.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Art A. You could send that 1x6/7 hood my way if you'd like.... I'll even pay shipping fees.

The 147 needs a nice one.

 

[rdehli]

Got a new toy the other day and it needed ust a little reworking

looks a bit better now ... all I have to do now it reassemble it ...

 

[aaytay]

Ding, ding... Vince wins the prize. (I'll mail it to ya Vince)

Actually you all crack me up...

Matt-
My thought was to drill out the spot welds (marked in <font color="ff0000">RED</font>), remove the tunnel and make another one that goes all of the way to the back of the frame (marked in <font color="0000ff">BLUE</font>) to faciliate mounting a seat spring and pan seat. The entire rear half of the tunnel will be removable (the way it should have been!) via counter-welded nuts and allen-head cap screws. (I'll slice it right behind the pedestal for easy removal.)

Oh, and custom paint...