Archive through September 22, 2009

[lkortkamp]

Got a question for you guru's.

I would really like to build myself a front loader bucket arrangement for my 149. Nothing supersized, but enough to move some dirt(or snow this winter).

My question is: can I just tap into my pump and use existing fluid or do I need to add another tank for enough fluid to run the cylinders(and use quick connects to isolate it when I take it off)? I don't think there would be enough fluid in the transaxle to run 2-3 other cylinders.

What did they do with the factory type units? I'm still in the dreaming/drawing board part of this lil myth and looking for input.

Thanks guys.

 

[dross]

Tony, What the blades fit depends on the subframe. "He has a blade, with a wide frame subframe".

 

[mgerecke]

Thanks for your help in understanding how the PTO bearing/locking collar work. This made it easy to get it taken apart.
Now I am having trouble getting the S/G pulley off. I have loosened the 2 set screws and it seems stuck.I know that this is thin steel so a 3 jaw puller is off limits. Probably don't want to bang on it too much because it will be hard on the crank bearings. Is there a trick to getting this off on my 149?
All this to repaint the engine for my restoration!! Please be patient with me-this is new to me.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[rwilke]

Mark G.,
I'd try spraying some penetrating oil (KROIL is good for this) into the set screw holes and on the crank end allowing the penetrate to creep in & around the crank. You may want to try a little propane torch heat too, but not too much. Then try prying between the block and the drive pulley to loosen it up..... You may need to let the penetrating oil set overnight.

Good Luck!
Ryan Wilke

 

[mgonitzke]

Ryan W.-

Yes, that came from the same book.

Larry K.-

You need a separate, dedicated pump and reservoir to run a loader.

 

[pdorow]

Has anyone ever replaced the plastic hydro cooling fan with the older series metal fan?

 

[pbell]

Ryan, Matt
The 800 production figures were also posted here about 7 years ago by Ken Updike, along with or 6 more models, and I believe he also has them listed in his books.

 

[rpalmer]

Dave Shine,
Anything added to the fins or anyplace else for that matter will make your engine run hotter. Something that is forgotten by people who love chrome on their other engines. They make oil coolers popular.

Paul Van Benschoten,

I used a long screw driver to pop off the clip on that hard to get balance gear. I thought my small ish ring clip pliers would work but no-go. Even they were too big to fit into the holes.

 

[rwilke]

Richard P.,
Yeah, I considered trying that, but then with my luck, the C-clip would break into multiple pieces and go flying around inside the crankcase, never to be found again!

Pieces of hardened metal bouncing around inside an engine is NOT a good thing!

Ryan Wilke

 

[wmiller]

Cletus, My 126, which appears to have its original rear tires, requires 2# more air pressure in the rt rear tire to set level. I suggest that you put the tractor on a flat floor and take as many measurements as you can think of.

 

[dfrisk]

KENDELL - In a past manufacturing plant I worked at We used 99.99% pure nickel tubing for heat conducting food processing chambers, namely to make VAST quantities of ice cream. Nickel has the best heat transfer of any metal compatible with milk or dairy products. We put 5/1000th's of an inch of hard chrome inside the tubes. We had a major midwestern food manufacturer who had many of our machines and after a brand new machine was run for 4 to 6 weeks the capacity in gallons per hour dropped 30-35%. Our engineers tracked the problem down to the synthetic oil in the ammonia refridgeration systems reacting with the water condensate in the refridgerant oxidixing the nickel and the oxide was retaining a thin coating of oil. The oxide and oil coating was "MAYBE" .050" to .100" thick. Not very thick in relation to the capacity drop.

On a working air cooled engine ANYTHING You do to keep the fins clean and dry and provide air flow will help them run cooler and longer. You look at the cooling fins on airplane engines or a Duetz air-cooled diesel engine and they make the fins on a Kohler seem pretty lame.

PAUL R. - According to My GREAT new rain gauge We got 1.65 inches over on this side of town yesterday. It's the first real rain since the week of RPRU!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Justin, seeing that the #1 dump cart was built during the Original through the 1x2/3 series the white could and probably should match the white used on those tractors. As for the decal, I'm not sure there was a decal used on the #1 dump cart. I looked through my archives at photos of the trailers and I do not see any sign of a decal. I could be wrong however.

Cletus, the Original uses bronze bushings on the rear axles and they could very well be worn enough to cause the tractor to set odd and make it appear that the frame is bent. Those bushings require frequent greasing, if they are not greased they can and have worn through into the casting.

 

[fcurrier]

I can't guarantee it's factory, but ours has a decal here:

 

[kmcconaughey]

Frank, ah! And here I was looking at the dump box for the decal. When I went back and looked at the draw bar/tongue sure enough there is a decal there.

 

[aaytay]

I'm in need of the collective help of any local forum members.... (I’m in Western Wisconsin near Mpls/St. Paul, MN)

Quick background: 8 weeks ago I dropped off a bare Kohler engine block for machine-work (typical .10 over/.10 under) at a local machine shop by the name of <font color="0000ff">Pro Machine</font>. He was recommended by more than one of the Cub enthusiasts in my area.

When I dropped the engine off he said he would give me a call in about a week with his measurements and a recommendation. Two weeks passed with no word, so I gave him a call. He said, "Oh, sorry.. We haven't gotten to it yet, it’s been really busy, but we should be able to get to it later today."

Well……this happened each week for the next 5 weeks. Finally at my wits end, I called with the intention of rattling someone's chain to get the block work done or pick up the engine and take it somewhere else.

When asked about my engine, the guy who answered the phone goes, "What??? Your engine??? We're going out of business. Haven't you heard???? Everything is almost done being cleaned out. I'm just a “grunt” helping with the clean up, so I don't know where your engine is, but you may want to come pick it up ASAP because we're outta here tomorrow afternoon."

Needless to say I left right after work and picked it up that day!!! (and felt lucky to have “saved” it!)

The bottom line is that I'm looking for a machine shop in the general Twin Cities area, but the problem I'm having is that I want someone who will take the time to "fit" the piston and crank, not just grind it .10 over and say, "Here, it's done.." (My understanding is that this “fitting” is the correct process to have machine-work done.)

So, the question is, does anyone on the forum in my area have any shops they would recommend?

I’m at the end of my rope.. It’s been 10-weeks of me staring at a bare block and I just want to get the work done and move forward with assembly.

 

[thenrie]

Larry Kortkamp, re the bucket for your Cub, Google PF Engineering. They sell plans for a bucket and a backhoe for garden tractors. I've been looking at that myself. One of their builders mentioned he used the upright supports for the bucket as reservoirs to support the cylinders. I think that's what Kubota does on their buckets for their small tractors as well.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, give Century Power Equipment in Stillwater, MN a call, 651-439-2035 and press the number for service. I spoke with my brother (the parts manager there) and he said they do some of that work in house and for some they send it out to a couple of different places, one of which is up in Anoka, MN. (I think that's where he said the place was). While they are a JD dealer they are also a Kohler dealer.

 

[lkortkamp]

Thanks Tony, I'll check into it.

 

[dfrisk]

ART - I'd pack KRAIG up for a road trip and go to the place in Fond du lac that Dave Kirk uses. He recommended it to Me and I was MORE than satisfied. I've used two local shops, one about 3 miles from my house and the other about eight and it's worth my time to drive to FDL.

Glad You got your block back.

 

[aaytay]

Kraig-
Thanks for that tip. I already called the service dept. there and spoke with "Bruce", the guy who does their machining. He said that he does not set up to do Kohlers anymore and gave me a lead for another place in New Richmond that I cannot find and assume they are out of business.

Another dead end I guess...