It's funny that ID tag says 750 when it's clearly a 900.
Engine says K241
Serial# 115375 which makes it April 1965.
Engine says K241
Serial# 115375 which makes it April 1965.
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Archive through September 19, 2015
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
elamott
Well-known member
Wayne:
I had a similar issue with the blades binding after I sharpened the them and after a while I loosened the the top nut and tightened the bottom one. It solved the problem. I didn't it would make a difference but it did. The shaft must have been too far one way and it would bind one of the bearings. Good luck
Earl LaMott
I had a similar issue with the blades binding after I sharpened the them and after a while I loosened the the top nut and tightened the bottom one. It solved the problem. I didn't it would make a difference but it did. The shaft must have been too far one way and it would bind one of the bearings. Good luck
Earl LaMott
On a 122 is there a spacer between the PTO engagement lever and the tower? Anyone have a picture?
Never mind. Figured it out.
Thanks Charlie and Earl-
I think I might have just been holding my mouth wrong. I put the blades on and tightened them with an impact. I also greased the spindles with the gun and the spindles seem to turn ok...a little tight but I'm ready to flip the switch on em.
.
I think I might have just been holding my mouth wrong. I put the blades on and tightened them with an impact. I also greased the spindles with the gun and the spindles seem to turn ok...a little tight but I'm ready to flip the switch on em.
.
Hey guys..I have a couple questions for the collective...Those of you who use your gear drive Cubs in the winter-time..Do you use any other lube in the trans/diff other than HyTran? I have used Redline MT-90 with is a GL4 75-90W Synthetic transmission oil in my Suzuki Sammy and Sidekick for years..The thing I like is about it is the fact it's a GL4 class and the ease of shifting when the transmissions are cold as ice, literally. They shift when its cold, like it's summertime with the Redline in them. It helps a bit with gear whine too.. I know the Cubs have straight cut gears, and they are basicially high strength crash boxes, but I was wondering if the cold flow/viscosity of the synthetic might be a good thing, which got me to wondering what ya'll use in the cold climates if you don't use the Hytran.
Next question. What weight engine oil are you cold weather guys running? Straight weights or a multi-weight?
I've never started my Cub 126 in the dead of winter, but I plan on using it this winter to move snow. I do use a fuel stabilizer to combat fuel aging and the phase separation of the ethanol..Ya'll do anything special before you crank the old K301? Heat the oil pan, keep the battery indoors or on a maintainer? Do they generally fire up in real cold weather without much pampering or prep?
Thanks guys..I totally do appreciate the help.
Next question. What weight engine oil are you cold weather guys running? Straight weights or a multi-weight?
I've never started my Cub 126 in the dead of winter, but I plan on using it this winter to move snow. I do use a fuel stabilizer to combat fuel aging and the phase separation of the ethanol..Ya'll do anything special before you crank the old K301? Heat the oil pan, keep the battery indoors or on a maintainer? Do they generally fire up in real cold weather without much pampering or prep?
Thanks guys..I totally do appreciate the help.
John, I have hydrostatic Cubs (125s) that I use in the winter. If I had a gear drive (OK, I have an Original but it sets under a blanket in the winter) I wouldn't use anything other than Hy-Tran in the transmission. As for engine oil, I have been using 10W-30 Full Synthetic oil for several years now. Previously I was using straight 30 weight in the summer and 10W-30 in the winter. Gear drives start much easier than hydrostatic drives due to fact that the direct coupled hydrostatic pump turns over when the engine is cranked and thus it's trying to pump cold Hy-Tran. I use a 200watt magnetic heater on the bottom of the rear differential to heat up the Hy-Tran for a half hour or so for easier starting. I learned that trick from a former forum member named David Schmidt.
John M.
Cold weather starting will surely let you know what condition your carburetor is in. I have had tractors that are very difficult to start in the cold and after a carb rebuild they are not a problem. The gap from years of use between throttle shaft and bushing is a source of air leakage (vacuum). This leakage can make an engine difficult to start when trying to choke start in cold weather. Make sure the carburator choke plate closes fully when the choke is pulled out. You will need to look in the carburetor bore to see. The plate might be slightly open and have no impact on starting in normal weather, but lets too much air in during a subfreezing start. Having a trickle charge on the battery is always helpful. I have placed such a charger on a timer so it only charges the battery a few ours daily.
Jim
Cold weather starting will surely let you know what condition your carburetor is in. I have had tractors that are very difficult to start in the cold and after a carb rebuild they are not a problem. The gap from years of use between throttle shaft and bushing is a source of air leakage (vacuum). This leakage can make an engine difficult to start when trying to choke start in cold weather. Make sure the carburator choke plate closes fully when the choke is pulled out. You will need to look in the carburetor bore to see. The plate might be slightly open and have no impact on starting in normal weather, but lets too much air in during a subfreezing start. Having a trickle charge on the battery is always helpful. I have placed such a charger on a timer so it only charges the battery a few ours daily.
Jim
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- Brian Branstetter
Huge 'Thank You' goes out to Binder Books. My manuals arrived on Saturday and are just great!! Thanks for your support! Got to love our sponsors!!
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Get a battery maintainer that you can leave plugged in all the time and keep the battery up.
Hytran in the trannies (both Trans types) and 10w30 full synthetic in the crank case.
Good plug and away you go.......
Hytran in the trannies (both Trans types) and 10w30 full synthetic in the crank case.
Good plug and away you go.......
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- Home of the Plow Special
John-
Fresh battery, 10W-30 oil, and make sure you've got a good tune up, and you should be fine. A quick story to illustrate the point...
I keep my snowblower rig in a semi-heated garage. The garage is not "heated", but is below grade, so it never really gets below 35-40 deg, even in the dead of winter. Because of this I've always kept straight-30WT oil in this snowblower tractor. It's never needed to start in cold, cold weather we get here in Wisconsin, and has never been an issue...
Anyway, two years ago we got a nasty first storm of the year that started with rain, turned to ice, and then a pile of snow. The temps then plumeted and the wind kicked up. Later that night I did my usual 1.5 hour-long snow clean up, but as I made my way back to the garage, the grass path I needed to use had been wet slushy snow, but was now a sheet of ice. Needless to say, I was stuck in moments in the howling wind.
I was stuck too far from any electrical power to trickle the battery or put a heater anywhere on the tractor, so when I shut it off, I figured the next day would be difficult.
The next morning we woke up to everything drifted over from the strong winds. It was somewhere just below zero that morning. I didn't even consider that the tractor would start, but figured I'd better try it. Sure enough, turned the key, and it slowly spun over about 5 revolutions and fired right up. It didn't like the 30wt oil, but it made it. The key is that the tractor was in good working order, and the battery was strong.
Needless to say, after that experience, I run 10W-30 in that tractor now, but winter is not as difficult as we sometimes think with a little preparation.
Fresh battery, 10W-30 oil, and make sure you've got a good tune up, and you should be fine. A quick story to illustrate the point...
I keep my snowblower rig in a semi-heated garage. The garage is not "heated", but is below grade, so it never really gets below 35-40 deg, even in the dead of winter. Because of this I've always kept straight-30WT oil in this snowblower tractor. It's never needed to start in cold, cold weather we get here in Wisconsin, and has never been an issue...
Anyway, two years ago we got a nasty first storm of the year that started with rain, turned to ice, and then a pile of snow. The temps then plumeted and the wind kicked up. Later that night I did my usual 1.5 hour-long snow clean up, but as I made my way back to the garage, the grass path I needed to use had been wet slushy snow, but was now a sheet of ice. Needless to say, I was stuck in moments in the howling wind.
I was stuck too far from any electrical power to trickle the battery or put a heater anywhere on the tractor, so when I shut it off, I figured the next day would be difficult.
The next morning we woke up to everything drifted over from the strong winds. It was somewhere just below zero that morning. I didn't even consider that the tractor would start, but figured I'd better try it. Sure enough, turned the key, and it slowly spun over about 5 revolutions and fired right up. It didn't like the 30wt oil, but it made it. The key is that the tractor was in good working order, and the battery was strong.
Needless to say, after that experience, I run 10W-30 in that tractor now, but winter is not as difficult as we sometimes think with a little preparation.
Hey Guys, thanks to all of ya'll for the info and advice. Does that bushing on the throttle shaft come with most rebuild kits, or is that a separate sold item from an IH dealer?
OK..silly question time..Do those tri-rib front tires have a taller overall height to them due to the center rib being the tallest point on the tire, than as opposed to the say a regular ribbed or turf front?
Can anyone tell me a close approximate total weight on a complete narrow frame push blade set-up.
Also..are there any fairly common front mounted hydro pumps that people mount to make use of loaders or articulating a front blade?
Thanks at least a thousand if not a million!
Regards
OK..silly question time..Do those tri-rib front tires have a taller overall height to them due to the center rib being the tallest point on the tire, than as opposed to the say a regular ribbed or turf front?
Can anyone tell me a close approximate total weight on a complete narrow frame push blade set-up.
Also..are there any fairly common front mounted hydro pumps that people mount to make use of loaders or articulating a front blade?
Thanks at least a thousand if not a million!
Regards
If I was to swap an MTD aluminum hydro rear end in a IH built 782 would it still be able to pull a plow? I know some of the sponsors have lower hitch brackets that fit the aluminum rear end cubs, just wondering if anybody has ever done it and what the weak link would be? As I understand it, the MTD build rear ends have the desirable fine spline axles that can actually be bigger & stronger in diameter hence the pullers want them. However the aluminum casting may be weak???
Rob N.
They pull and push it all the time, Go for it!
They pull and push it all the time, Go for it!
Wow..Once again, Thanks to all you guys for answering my questions..Amazing resource for the old Cubs.
A question about the electric lifts...I have a 147, that I am basically robbing some parts off of to use on my 126..The 147 has a working electric lift and I am wondering if it's worthwhile to maybe make use of the electric lift on my 126..I know the rock shafts would have to be changed out. But I am curious how the front anchor of the lift cylinder attaches to a regular narrow frame like the 126..The 147 has a weld on bracket that the eye of the lift cylinder nests into..Is there a bolt on bracket for the narrow frame machines that didn't come equipped with the E-Lift? Maybe the conversion if more trouble than it's worth and the good ol' manual lift lever is the best unless you have hydraulics?
Regards and thanks again..The photos and info are truly a great thing.
A question about the electric lifts...I have a 147, that I am basically robbing some parts off of to use on my 126..The 147 has a working electric lift and I am wondering if it's worthwhile to maybe make use of the electric lift on my 126..I know the rock shafts would have to be changed out. But I am curious how the front anchor of the lift cylinder attaches to a regular narrow frame like the 126..The 147 has a weld on bracket that the eye of the lift cylinder nests into..Is there a bolt on bracket for the narrow frame machines that didn't come equipped with the E-Lift? Maybe the conversion if more trouble than it's worth and the good ol' manual lift lever is the best unless you have hydraulics?
Regards and thanks again..The photos and info are truly a great thing.
Just wanted to follow up on my '77 1250. I replaced the rear trans-axle with a newer one I had bought and stored. I also found the two rear engine mount nuts missing and replaced them. It now runs as new and cutting the grass perfectly . Thanks to all who helped.
