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Archive through September 17, 2015

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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kmcconaughey

Keeper of the Photos
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Kraig McConaughey
John M., yes, the narrow frame blade lift rods should all be the same length. However, there's no guarantee that a PO didn't mix up a narrow frame lift rod with a wide frame lift rod with either a narrow frame or wide frame snow thrower lift rod.
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Should you find yourself with a blade and a lift rod where the lift rod just doesn't seem correct, do what Steve Blunier demonstrated here, park your Cub with blade onto 2x lumber with the blade resting on the ground/floor, to figure the proper length. It's quite easy to fab up a lift rod.

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Doug ,i have removed as much as .050 from the head ,and had no problem ,for most part i remove .030 ,
 
Hey isn't this suppose to be off topic friday?

David C. thanks. I'll resurfaced it this weekend. In the automotive world taking .010 is considered a lot. should have new head gasket by Tue. order a spare to have on hand. I need to get the 123 up and running for wind storm clean up at the cabin next weekend.
 
I got the 63 cub clutch apart tonight and cleaned it up as it had been sitting for some time and was not working, also both bottom bolts that hold the frame to the rear end where broken off, so the frame had an inch gap at the bottom which i think had more to do with the problem as you would have to press the clutch pedal down all the way to shift it. The frame is all fixed now and back together. Can anyone tell me if this clutch looks worn? It looks good to me.

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Doug, I have horrible news for you. You missed it by 6 days! The next scheduled one isn't for another 8 days. Bummer!
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Whoops! your right it's only thurs. Dang I gota work tomorrow. I've got such light schedule I guess it seemed like the weekend already.

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Question:

When the "S" is center of the timing hole, what position should the points be?
I can't find Matt G's static timing procedure.
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Doug,

Is that a selfie?
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Rickey, according to the service manual as long as there's no indication of metal to metal contact you are good to go. Near as I can tell from your photos, there's plenty of clutch lining left.
 
Marty-

The mark by the "S" is what should split the hole. You mentioned the "S" being centered so I thought I'd throw that out there. The points will be at the point of closing and close when the "S" mark is dead center. There's also no need to worry with a feeler gauge unless you want to know the final gap.

Static timing can be awkward at first. I center the mark then go around the tractor and make a tiny mark on the left side of the flywheel screen and shroud aligned with each other. I can just glance and see where I need to be.

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If you are rolling the engine in the correct direction, the "s".is where the points OPEN not close....
 
Marty G, yes that's a selfie, I feel like I made an *ss out of myself.
 
It only took a week to get it off the trailer an on solid ground, LOL
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Charlie nice score. As far as steering it just push down on the rear of the boom and swing the front end around
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Doug: I could use your pic as a profile pic, I'm good at making an ass out of myself.
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Charlie: A trencher on a 70. 7 horsepowers. Imagine the power of just 7 of the Budweiser Clydesdales.
2 more 125's came in today. I'm not supposed to get attached any more, but don't know how to help myself. I know that the $400 was well worth it in parts, but it's hard to part them out now.
Whatever.
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