Archive through October 07, 2005

[hlinden]

I could not help noticing another discussion on tires. I blast tires with sand box sand. In that way there is no harmful silica dust and the blasting removes all of the brown coating, paint or whatever. It does not hurt the rubber unless you get right up next to the surface and hold the nozzle in one spot. Walnut shells also work great.

While putting my '62 "Original" back together I came across tires that I did not know existed. I am sure the old timers know about these but perhaps others working on their CCs might find these of interest. I was about to purchase a new set of 6-12 AG tire when these beauties caught my eye. They are 6.00-12 AG. I would have thought they are one and the same but obviously there is a BIG difference. I have problems with traction while traversing the sides of loose dirt hills. These have greatly improved that situation. The tread is at least 1/2" higher than the 6-12 and there is a comfortable 3/4" clearance all the way around the fender. They are 4 ply made in Taiwan so I am sure there is a US original. And best of all they give the CUB some attitude.

Does anyone have a recommendation for high profile, good traction front tire? My fronts are the originals that came with the tractor in '62 and they have just about held their last breath of air.

Love this forum

Greetings from Santa Barbara

(Message edited by Hlinden on October 08, 2005)

 

[sblunier]

Harry,

Those Taiwan 6x12's are made for the compact diesel market as MFWD front tires...I doubt there is an "original" USA tire mold for these, they have a very distinctive "import" style.

I would recommend the imported 4x8 tri-rib fronts, they sit a little taller, make the tractor steer like a dream, and give the overall appearance of a big ag tractor.

I'm not a big fan of ags on the front of tractors that don't have MFWD, tri-ribs make a much better steering tire on a non-powered axle IMHO.

 

[cengelking]

Mike M. and myself just got back from a parts run to Travis and parts pick up from Kraig M . Travis, we both thank you for the cub stuff.
Steve B. I have a package for you. I just hope you can pay the fuel surcharge for the delivery. Kraig had no problem with it.

 

[riannotti]

HI,
can anyone help me please. I have a cub 147 and my Hydro speed control creeps up by itself. I set it to a reasonable speed then all of a sudden I find myself going very fast.This can be very dangerous considering the speed this can achieve. I can see it creep as the cadet vibrates while running. Is there an adjustment for this, can it be tightened. The previous owner tied a shoelace aroung the lever. Otherwise I have to drive with my hand on the lever to ensure it stays at the proper speed. Thank You

 

[rmunday]

Ralph -

https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/HydroProblems.htm

 

[glouderback]

Is there a section / archive I can go to to see all the photos you guys have of your Cubs I see some great 100's that I would like to see more of as I have a decent one. I went to FAQ and I did not see any.
Thanks!!! G.L.

 

[bmoore]

Michael O'R,
Vent appears to be fine. I pulled the float bowl, and the only fuel that came out was what had been in the bowl. The float had dropped, but the needle above it remained stuck to the seat. I tapped the side of the carb, and it dropped open. This is the only one I have that has a metal line instead of a hose. Tom H mentioned to me that the metal fuel line has some rubber parts in it which dry out and can move around. A chunk may have stuck to the tip, or it could have dislodged some gum. I had blown some low pressure air back through the line after he told me that, and it was "fixed" for a while. Guess I'll need to take everything apart from the carb back to the tank and redo it.
Harry L,
I don't have anything with the narrow tri-ribs on it like Steve mentioned, but I do have a pair of 4.80x8.00's on the front of my 109. They look like they're mounted backwards, but that is the direction the arrow on the side of some ag tires shows if they are mounted as a non-driving or steering tire. The edge of the bars gives good steering on the outside edge of the tire when turning. They work well for me in the snow. If you have trouble mounting the tires in that direction, just ask Art A for help.

 

[bmcmeen]

Bruce M. -

You're right, that WAS some thick grass. Just finished the front - boy, there were some spots where I wish I had a 7HP in 3rd gear!

 

[hlinden]

Steve,

Thanks for the feedback. I sort of eliminated the thought of using AGs on the front. I think the steering would be very strange, particularly during those short runs on asphalt. I will look for some tri-ribs as that sounds like the answer.

Thanks,
Harry

 

[eplummer]

Hi,
Does anyone know if there is a trick to removing the horizontal bolt where the tiller hanger bracket attaches to the frame of the tiller. Rear mounted rotary type, 40 inch. It appears to run through some sort of bearing. When I turn the bolt the bearing turns with it.
Any help is appreciated.

 

[bmcmeen]

Eric P. -

Tiller hanger bracket? Frame?? Bearing??? Huh????

I take it you don't have an implement parts manual which shows exploded diagrams of <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Cub Cadet implements which usually helps in disassembly/reassembly...

Got a digital camera at least? Can you post a picture so we know what you're talking about? The only bearings are in the gearbox and chainbox.

G.Louderback -

What, they're not tripping over eachother trying to give you all the pictures you need at your new digs?

We have precious little disk space for posts as it is, let alone hosting photo albums for everyone's personal use. Those who care to share their photos probably keep them on their own websites or Yahoo or some other sharing site.

 

[digger]

Had a pretty good day today.
My first WF gear drive.

Really nice 50" deck too!

Plus a little bonus with a new pair of Cat0 3 point arms.

 

[eplummer]

Thanks Bryan,
You are right I am without any doucumentation whatsoever. I took another look and I should probably call it a spacer, a bushing or a sleeve. A threaded bolt runs through it. The diameter of the sleeve is to large to pass through the mounting hole on the arms of hanger frame. I think the diagram I need is 12b. from the tiller manual. At least thats what I could guess from a posted diagram I found earlier.

 

[digger]

Lets try one of these pics and see which one it's in.

 

[bmcmeen]

Eric P -

If it's a spacer (perhaps #10 in Charlie's second pic?), just spray it with your choice of penetrating oil, let it sit then whack the threaded end with a hammer and it should come flying out the other side.

Then you can whack the spacer from the top and it'll fall on the floor.

 

[digger]

Oh yea, I kinda thought these were cool too.

 

[tcbusch]

Ralph - remove the battery. Look behind the battery for the hydro lever shaft. Follow the shaft down. You will see a nut. You need to tighten that nut about a quarter turn. The nut is very difficult to get to. You might need to buy a open end wrench an bend the wrench. I have also seen a plumbers wrench with a swivlehead that might fit.

Bryan,
This was brought to you by cdma.

 

[digger]

Terry B,
You told my secret on the basin wrench!

 

[eplummer]

Bryan and Charlie,
That is exactly the picture I needed. It is #10. It seems that the bolt has become one with the spacer. I have given it a good dose of pb blaster. Will let that marinate overnight and see what tomorrow brings. I can not thank you enough for your help.
Eric

 

[wrsmith]

Thanks to all of you that responded on and off the list to my post about buying a 102. I picked it up today and other than the seat it's all original. It also has a creeper gear and the owner threw in a new set of tire chains, all for $100.

Wayne