Archive through September 15, 2008

[kmcconaughey]

Thanks for the nice comments, trust me the photos make K4K look better then it actually is.

It was too humid on Saturday when I painted the fender and regulator cover. It looks like I used flat paint!

And I knew better too.

 

[dfrisk]

The new Farmer's Almanac is predicting HEAVY snow for this winter....record snow....more than last year, and here around Madison, WI. We had over 100 inches last winter and the old record was 72 or 75 inches and 30-36 is about average.... I put more hours on the Super H pushing snow last winter than I put on it the prior 3-4 winters combined. One Saturday in late Feb. Son & I used both the SH & M from 8:30 AM till after 2 PM straight pushing around snow. You can move a LOT of snow with two 7000# farm tractors with 80" wide blades & buckets. The Cubbies would have been slightly overwhelmed trying to remove the one snow....I couldn't even get thru it with My F-250 4X4 heading downhill....the front bumper was pushing up a mound of snow half way up the grill! I'm not waiting till Feb. to get ready to move snow this year....The blade & chains are going on in about a month! And the big bucket & all the weights never get removed!

 

[jmitchell]

Hey fellas.. I recently had a new clutch installed in my 126..It holds great and takes up well, but when I clutch it, as in when I'm shifting from 1st or 2nd into reverse or from reverse back to either 1st or 2nd..I often get some gear grind. Obviously the machine is not moving when I shift into reverse, or from reverse to a forward gear. The grinding does not happen as badly if I throttle the engine back. It's like the clutch does not completely release enough to disengage the drive shaft where it stops spinning altogether. I'd noticed that before the clutch was replaced, there was only 1 anti-rattle spring on one of the drive-plate pins. The parts fitch called for 3 anti rattle springs, so I had 3 new springs installed..Can 3 anti rattle springs cause clutch drag by not allowing the plates to separate far enough? Or., do I need to tighten up some on the nut of the threaded rod that pulls the clutch throwout arm back? Thanks for any advice.

John Mitchell

 

[dfrisk]

JOHN - Your Operator's manual has a spec. for the free movement between the clutch/brake pedal stop & the pedal....it's kinda involved because the pedal is also the brake....and the clutch has to release before the brake engages. It will take some time for the new friction disc and clutch plates to bed in and release cleanly & completely. The anti-rattle springs actually tend to make gear clashing worse by holding the friction disc to the clutch plates & restricting the friction disc's movement. Remember Your dealing with straight cut spur gears with no synchronizers, the leading engaging corners of the gear teeth were rounded from the factory (I used to schedule parts over the HURTH gear rounders @ FARMALL) but those rounded teeth are no substitute for synchro's. If Your problem persists the engine may be out of alignment with the driveshaft which binds up the clutch pilot bearing. I'm assuming You put a bit of some kind of lubricant in the pilot bearing bore before You slid the engine back into place....and that the driveshaft wasn't painted from the front end all the way back behind the throw-out bearing. Everything has to work freely, You can't have anything painted together.
I went as far as making a countershaft brake for the driveshaft of My CC 72 many years ago...a lever & rubber friction pad that rubbed on the driveshaft and stopped it from turning when I shifted from neutral into gear. Worked great....just wouldn't work with the driveshaft & coupler I'm using now. :-(

 

[kide]

Dennis:
All that work makes me think the "2 hp loss" on my hydro is worth it ..

BTW - Later Cushman Eagles used a "pulley brake" on the transmission input pulley for the same crunch reduction.. I just put one on this summer.

 

[rchristensen]

Kraig I know you have mentioned it before but what do you use for the final clean up before you paint?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Richard, I've been wiping everything down with lacquer thinner before I prime it. FWIW, I'm using rattle can paint.

 

[jcleer]

Hi y'all I am working on a 105, finally got it running, but now the mower clutch doesnt seem to be right. When you pull the lever it just chatters and sqeals. Is this right or does something need fixed? The belt is not on it yet so maybe that is the cause for the noise?? Thanks for the help. Joe

 

[rgobeli]

Hi all - newbie here. Trying to switch from a Gravely that needs too much work. Are there any easy riding/running tests to check for hydro problems on a CC 109? I can evaluate the rest. Thanks.
Dick

 

[rchristensen]

Kraig I'm using rattle can spray paint on my 1650 also. In the past I have always use Cub Cadet paint but it seems to fade real fast here in Arizona.

I've seen some paint jobs here that use School bus yellow over grey primer and they look good. I tried ACE brand Enamel School Bus yellow over Grey primer and I like it, so will go with that on this rebuild.

 

[bnolte]

I've been working on the recently acquired 102, and while the engine is out I'm taking care of some steering issues, the usual slop in the gearbox and worn tie rod and drag link ends. I've already taken care of the steering box, and am focused on the tie rod/drag link ends at the moment. I'm thinking of changing from the traditional ball joint style shown below to the type that uses a spherical bearing, which I can obtain from McMaster Carr.

I have one decent specimen of the original type shown here

I'm thinking of converting to this type, which is shown in the McMaster-Carr Catalog. The bronze bearing ones are $5.47 each, the steel bearing ones are $18.31 each, and a steel one with a grease fitting is 4.93 each. I've seen this type shown in the FAQ as part of the Super Steer upgrade, I was wondering if anyone's done just this part of the conversion, and how it worked out?

 

[dclinansmith]

Bruce N. I have those on one of my 1650's and am not as happy with them as I am with the type that already has the bolt built in. I don't have the number of the better ones handy. The other type I used required washers as spacers to keep them from rubbing the spindles. I am almost positive I got the specs. from this forum so somebody with a better filing system will hopefully post the correct part number.

 

[bnolte]

Dave C.

Thanks for the feedback, I ordered 4 of the steel rod ends with grease fittings. I expect to have to shim things up to make clearance room, but it shouldn't be too difficult.

 

[kide]

Bruce:
McMaster-Carr 6072K33 Heim style joints with integrated studs. The type without the studs will bind when the wheels are turned to full lock..

 

[jdreaves]

BRUCE NOLTE.


I converted a 126 to the rod end bearings you asked about and pictured. I had no problems with the conversion and have found the steering to be tighter. When making the conversion, measure existing tie rod length from center of tie rod end to center of tie rod end. This will be the same distance when you install new rod end bearings. Do the same for the steering rod from steering box to steering knuckle on spindle. You may or may not have to use an additional washer between rod end bearing and tie rod or steering knuckle, for clearance. AN washers are smaller in OD. I think that's what I used. Conversion was done in 98 or 99.

This is a good conversion. I highly recommend it.

John-David Reaves Roll Tide

 

[jdreaves]

RICHARD CHRISTENSEN.

I restored a Model 126 in 98 or 99 and used ACE school bus yellow over the ACE gray primer. To make the paint harder and more resistant to gas or oil spills, I oversprayed everything with ACE clear gloss LACQUER. Yes, lacquer. It works and it makes the school bus yellow as hard as a rock.

Was told by ACE store manager that ACE was discontinuing school bus yellow in spray cans because the demand was not enough. They are keeping the CASE yellow. Doesn't help us Cub Cadet fanatics! You can still buy it in quart and gallon cans, but not in spray cans.

You can get PREVAL sprayer and dilute it and spray it that way, or use a regular spray gun and air compressor. But, if you are going to that trouble, just buy the automotive paint and spray it. It has hardeners and will not fade or flake off.

I use PENSKE yellow in a urethane paint, which is NASON equivalent of Federal Yellow. I mix with reducer and hardener, and it shoots fine and covers well. However, at $33 a pint, plus hardener and reducer, it is costly.

John-David Reaves Roll Tide

 

[bnolte]

Darnit!

McMaster-Carr shipped it within minutes of placing the order. I should be able to make the ones that I ordered work, but for each joint I'll need a 3/8 ID spacer and an extra nut to make it work. The part that Kendall came up with is definitely the hot lick however. Maybe I'll do it on my next tractor, or I'll try them on the 129 sometime.

 

[rsimpson]

Hi all, I am new to the site but been around for about 52 years. I picked up a nice 12 hp, 125, hydrosatic with a 48" deck. Got it running like new. Had to clean the black varnish out of the carb., free the choke and throttle cables, put the next size up rear tires on since the left rear original was leaking thru the tread, took out and freeded up the fwd & rev hyd bypass valves and put a battery in it so far. I have not contacted a Cub Cadet dealer yet but I do have a question for the forum. Can anybody tell me what is the correct motor to deck drive belt and the deck belt also if you have it handy? Your help is appreciated!
Thanks all and take care!! Rory

 

[digger]

Rory S.
Click this link http://cubfaq.com/questions.html and find out what that belt is and tons of other neat stuff about your new Cub.

 

[bnolte]

As the old saying goes, haste makes waste, so I went ahead and ordered the ones that Kendall specified, and I'll return the other ones. Can't see having to monkey rig the ones I originally ordered, even if I'm out the shipping cost.