Archive through September 15, 2008

[jdreaves]

BRUCE NOLTE.

I understand you wanting to be satisfied with your conversion. The rod end bearings with stud already attached should work quite well.

On my conversion, I used a 3/8" fine thread bolt and an AN flat washer and used the existing clastel nut to lock everything with. I just had to drill a hole through the 3/8" bolt in the appropriate place to install a cotter key. Everything has worked out fine, and there was not a lot of rigging to make it work. Pretty straight forward.

John-David Reaves
Roll Tide

 

[eford]

Thanks Charlie for the spacing measurements! I'll bite the bullet and finally go to the cub dealer and order some rims if I can. I asked last year and didn't get very far. The parts lookup didn't list rims this wide. Is there another later model I can use to find these?

 

[bnolte]

The castle nut is a good idea, but I'm looking at an original style tie rod end here, which is a replacement part and it isn't drilled for the cotter pin either. Of course these days you can use Loctite in 3 or 4 different flavors to secure your fasteners, or use lock nuts of different types as well.

 

[jdreaves]

BRUCE,

My 126 was original equipment before the conversion, but had the castle nuts and cotter pins. If your's didn't, I'd highly recommend you add castle nuts and drill for cotter pins.

You could always use a locknut instead of a castle nut. They are cheap and you don't have to use cotter pin.

John-David Reaves
Roll Tide

 

[kide]

Bruce:
I used a Nyloc locknut on each one - no problems yet (about a year). Note that you can trim some off the end of each stud..I had a set of regular heim ends and checked 'em out, but was already aware of the binding problem on the drag link from Terry Busch's original post...I could have spaced 'em up, but I can get stuff from M-C overnite, so got the good ones..

 

[kide]

Bruce (and others):
While looking at the web page of one of those great sponsors that pay for this site ( you know, the ones with the colorful boxes at the top of the page), I happened to look that their section on steering parts and discovered that they also sell the heim joints with studs (PN/723-3018)... OOOPS

 

[dtanner]

hello all, i just hate to add that i did spend the extra $ when i built my 129 loader front steering to handle the extra weight of a bucket of dirt in the loader bucket. the steering is real easy at all times with the new joints and did that mode at least 1.5 years ago and i`am not sorry. Just my .02

 

[fcurrier]

Donnie:
How about showing a little grease on that fitting?

 

[bnolte]

Kendall, Digger...

Relax, the 102's gonna need a few other things before she's done. The clutch disk doesn't look so hot, and the teaser spring, well.... nuf said! Of course it won't be complete without a nice new steering wheel cap either.

 

[digger]

Bruce N.
No matter what all you do, there's ALWAYS gonna be something else.

 

[stanner]

Bruce,

I have used the heim joint on my 149 for 10 years w/o issue... Not stock, but doesn't matter to me... FWIW

 

[bbrigham]

Bring on the snow Charlie !!!! Isn't there a snow dance we can do ? On that subject...was workin on wiring up the cab for the wiper and put a small work light on the back above the window and thought instead of leaving the light on how about hooking it up as a back up light ?! Now to pull the cab off......again....pull the fenders seat plate off.....again...and mount a spare n-safety switch where it will contact the shifter in R. I figure no sense in drawing power when I'm not using it. Since I'm gonna try to get back into plowing driveways down town I also mounted my small strobe to the roof. After contract plowing for 6 years, I think those strobes are the only way to go.
Now to pray for some REAL snow this year!!

 

[bbranstetter]

John-

Pay close attention to the motor alingment when installing that clutch. A little dirt, twist or anything like that can throw things off and put that shaft in a bind. If your cub has lead a tough life, like most have, you might be looking at shiming the motor into a sweet spot due to frame twist or something the like. I found that out by accident when I did my clutch, the front of my motor needed to be several thousands' higher to let everything release properly.

Just a thought. Good luck

 

[jmitchell]

Thanks for the replies. It might be a slight alignment issue, or maybe as simple as the clutch disc getting a little more broken in..I mowed about 2 acres again today and it seems like whatever might cause the drag is maybe bedding in as the grinding problem is not as bad as the last time I mowed about three weeks ago. [bone dry here]

Got one steering drag-link end to change out and I think I'm going to rebuild a couple of deck spindles next after that..I'm sure I've have some questions then!

Thanks again

John Mitchell

 

[sblunier]

Still around, just checking in after a marathon month of house remodeling....and a good drenching by the storm system Ike stirred up.....

Watch the next few days for some more info about plow day.....

 

[bnolte]

Charlie,

You're right about that! Come to think of it, my neighbor has a CC102 that has some type of a 3 point hitch linkage, and some wheel weights as well. Looks like a parts tractor, maybe I can get it away from him for a song. Hopefully I'll have the 102 in top mechanical form at least before the snow flies, as I plan to put the plow from the other 102 on it.

The 129's gonna need a little work once mowing season is done and I'm ready to switch it over to the snow blower. I'd like to do a little more proper repairs on the grass screen, change the oil, tinker with the hydro linkage, and service the mower deck, as its gonna need blades sharpened and some internal baffles either shored up or removed.

 

[bcorn]

Ok guys out using my 126 last night of course I was over the hill in the woods doing some light mowing and all of a sudden the tractor stopped moving. Checked all the pins in the clutch shaft they were fine.

Thinking all the time who can I get to help me pull this in the shop I rested my foot on the clutch lightly and it started moving again. Took my foot off the clutch and it stopped moving, so lightly putting my foot on the clutch I was able to get it home.

Ok I know adjustment time but I was wondering the disk looks good, cant really se the metal clutch facing has anybody ever sprayed like a saftey solvent on these things to maybe clean it a little bit? 36 yrs. of running these little guys and never had this type problem or act like this.

Pops

 

[kide]

Scott:
...and they won't fall apart without a <u>lot</u> more warning than the stock ball and socket tie rod ends give ya (BTDT while mowing the back 40...)

 

[kmcconaughey]

John-David, thanks for the tip on the Ace clear lacquer! Perfect timing I was planning on heading to my local Ace Hardware this week to pick up some hardware for K4K.

Here's some photos I took this morning of last nights progress. After I mowed part of the lawn, it got too dark to finish, I spent some time working on K4K. I primed and painted the steering wheel. I used Ace brand black epoxy appliance paint. I also used this on the foot rests for my 125, it might be a bit too glossy for a steering wheel but it should hold up well. (Hmmmm...., I might have to paint the throttle control handle with the black appliance paint....) I also installed the throttle control, starter button, ignition switch and connected up some of the wiring harness. Turns out the ignition switch has the key broke off in it, oh well it works with a screw driver. I installed the grip and the float bail on the lift handle. The foot rests on K4K were powder coated a couple of years ago. I posted a photo of the left side foot rest on Sunday, here's the right side.

 

[tkiste]

Hey Kraig,
Are those double grease zerks on your front spindles?