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Archive through September 14, 2015
- Thread starter jbaker
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Charlie- Any word on those rumored 122/123 float bails?
Tony P,
Welcome to the IH Cub Cadet Forum! The 147 is a great Cub Cadet. Okay, to answer your question. The general orientation of a Cub Cadet is sitting on the operators seat, facing forward. Your left hand is the left side (Carb/ Brake pedal side) of the Cub and your right hand is the right side (Starter/Generator (SG) side). From this position, looking at the SG pulley it should be rotating CW. The Engine likewise will be turning CW as the connecting belt spins it the same way. Your statement "the engine turns clockwise while the generator turns counter-clockwise" is a bit confusing as SG pulley and engine should both be spinning the same direction.
Alternately if you stand in front your 147, facing the engine, the SG and Engine will be spinning CCW.
John M,
The 125 and 126 models are both quick attach style. If you have the QA mule drive, there is a release arm under the front of the frame which you simply pull down on to release QA mule drive allowing it to slide forward. You do not have to remove the Frankenstein bolts to remove the mule drive.
Welcome to the IH Cub Cadet Forum! The 147 is a great Cub Cadet. Okay, to answer your question. The general orientation of a Cub Cadet is sitting on the operators seat, facing forward. Your left hand is the left side (Carb/ Brake pedal side) of the Cub and your right hand is the right side (Starter/Generator (SG) side). From this position, looking at the SG pulley it should be rotating CW. The Engine likewise will be turning CW as the connecting belt spins it the same way. Your statement "the engine turns clockwise while the generator turns counter-clockwise" is a bit confusing as SG pulley and engine should both be spinning the same direction.
Alternately if you stand in front your 147, facing the engine, the SG and Engine will be spinning CCW.
John M,
The 125 and 126 models are both quick attach style. If you have the QA mule drive, there is a release arm under the front of the frame which you simply pull down on to release QA mule drive allowing it to slide forward. You do not have to remove the Frankenstein bolts to remove the mule drive.
James M,
If your belt is still tight with the tension spring removed, then the back side of your mule drive pulleys are likely bottoming out up against with the front axle. Something you might want to check.
I don't see anything out of place in your QA and subframe setup. The center pulley on the mower deck appears correct. I initially thought perhaps someone installed a bigger diameter center pulley which would take a longer belt. I would try the next longer belt avaiable and see if it will work.
If your belt is still tight with the tension spring removed, then the back side of your mule drive pulleys are likely bottoming out up against with the front axle. Something you might want to check.
I don't see anything out of place in your QA and subframe setup. The center pulley on the mower deck appears correct. I initially thought perhaps someone installed a bigger diameter center pulley which would take a longer belt. I would try the next longer belt avaiable and see if it will work.
Thank you Paul Bell and Ron Schmitt..I'll have a look and see what is going on..I am afraid the PO might have been a little too handy with a welder and welded the ends of the rods of the mule pulley cross shaft(for lack of better descriptive) to the brackets that the Frankenstein bolts pass through and hold in place.
Another question. Does the 126 require a specific under-carriage/push bar for the snow/push blade? Or will any narrow frame set-up work as long it's not for an original Cub? I would love to see an exploded view of what it all looks like and how it mounts..But I have not been able to locate much on the web..
Another question. Does the 126 require a specific under-carriage/push bar for the snow/push blade? Or will any narrow frame set-up work as long it's not for an original Cub? I would love to see an exploded view of what it all looks like and how it mounts..But I have not been able to locate much on the web..
Alrighty then..Paul B. and Ron S. I found the release lever and the mule drive is now off. I've been rooting around through the archives and found a few examples of how the narrow frame push frame mounts up. I presume that a spring assist would not be a bad idea for a 60 year old fat man trying to plough snow in the winter on a Cub Cadet. I've' seen the Brindley spring assist's on Cubs equipped with the rear lift for mould board plowing, but I would think it would work on assisting with the push blade as well?
John-The Brinley spring assist clamps on to the bar going to the rear lift. If you don't have a rear lift it won't work. I don't recall how the IH spring assist connects.
John M,
Your 126 is a "narrow frame" Cub Cadet model so you will need a "narrow frame" subframe in order to mount an IH 42" front mount blade on it. You can get a rough idea of what a narrow frame subframe looks like by going to the "Manuals" section here on the forum or use the link below for the manual applicable to later narrow frame models.
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/Front%2042%20Blade%20Operators%20Manual-2.pdf
Note, the one illustration on the supplemental page in the manual is a wide frame subframe.
Kraig probably has a good picture of a narrow frame subframe that he can post to help you in your search. Also you can post a want ad in the appropriate section here on the forum for a narrow frame subframe and a 42" blade as well for your 126 to help you find one.
The spring assist is helpful but not a must have requirement for a front mount blade as they are not all that heavy and can be reasonably lifted with the manual lift arm. A front mount snowthrower on the other hand would definitely need a spring assist.
Hope this helps.
Your 126 is a "narrow frame" Cub Cadet model so you will need a "narrow frame" subframe in order to mount an IH 42" front mount blade on it. You can get a rough idea of what a narrow frame subframe looks like by going to the "Manuals" section here on the forum or use the link below for the manual applicable to later narrow frame models.
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/Front%2042%20Blade%20Operators%20Manual-2.pdf
Note, the one illustration on the supplemental page in the manual is a wide frame subframe.
Kraig probably has a good picture of a narrow frame subframe that he can post to help you in your search. Also you can post a want ad in the appropriate section here on the forum for a narrow frame subframe and a 42" blade as well for your 126 to help you find one.
The spring assist is helpful but not a must have requirement for a front mount blade as they are not all that heavy and can be reasonably lifted with the manual lift arm. A front mount snowthrower on the other hand would definitely need a spring assist.
Hope this helps.
Thanks Danderson, for explaining the Brinley setup..
Kraig, Thanks for the cut-a-way photo illustration. It makes perfect sense now! The IH spring assist is the way to go on the front mounted items.
Now if I can find a complete push blade set up in my region of the country I'd be in tall standing with my wife this winter when we both are not shoveling snow with short handled corn scoops! Ha!
Ron, most helpful info you, and P.Bell have provided me with, I got the mule drive off in a flash after you guys telling about the release lever/loop. I appreciate the help all of you folks have given me..
Kraig, Thanks for the cut-a-way photo illustration. It makes perfect sense now! The IH spring assist is the way to go on the front mounted items.
Now if I can find a complete push blade set up in my region of the country I'd be in tall standing with my wife this winter when we both are not shoveling snow with short handled corn scoops! Ha!
Ron, most helpful info you, and P.Bell have provided me with, I got the mule drive off in a flash after you guys telling about the release lever/loop. I appreciate the help all of you folks have given me..
Just pulled my 42" cast iron pin on deck out of the shed for the first time in 23 years. Man that thing is heavy.
Rrschmitt. Thanks a heap for the manual link.It explained the procedure very well...I appreciate the info.
Kraig, Hey again the photos of an actual narrow frame with the push blade under carriage mounted is like gold! Thanks,
Gerry. Are the 2 link chains over turfs the way to go? Or chains over like Titan Tru Power ag types preferable?
Thanks again y'all.. I've actually been a member here for a fair amount of time and am familiar with some of the long timers..This is without a doubt the premier place for all things IH Cub Cadets
Kraig, Hey again the photos of an actual narrow frame with the push blade under carriage mounted is like gold! Thanks,
Gerry. Are the 2 link chains over turfs the way to go? Or chains over like Titan Tru Power ag types preferable?
Thanks again y'all.. I've actually been a member here for a fair amount of time and am familiar with some of the long timers..This is without a doubt the premier place for all things IH Cub Cadets
John, 2 link chains are the preferred type over 4 link chains and they work best over turfs. Chains, when used on ag tires the chains tend to drop down between the lugs and only grip where the chain passes over the lug. They still work, but Turfs and chains work better. <FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>
Good morning all. The 123 at the cabin blew the head gasket the last time over. The head is pretty badly warped, I'll need to take about .010 off to to get it flat again. I'm wondering how much I can get away with and if there is way to tell if it been resurfaced before.
Doug,
Your engines head to valve clearance is what you need to know, before you can determine how much you can shave off the head. You should have at least 0.100" clearance between the head and top of the valves (open position).
Jim
Your engines head to valve clearance is what you need to know, before you can determine how much you can shave off the head. You should have at least 0.100" clearance between the head and top of the valves (open position).
Jim
John M.
If you are going to be push mostly dirt with a front blade Ag tire are a good choice.
If you are doing a combination of snow & dirt I would go with turf and chains (2 link).
I got a pair of 4 link chains that have only been used once. We moved to a new house and I could not find my 2 link chains, so a picked up a 4 links at TCS. The 4 links were motivation to look harder for the 2 link chains.
Jim
If you are going to be push mostly dirt with a front blade Ag tire are a good choice.
If you are doing a combination of snow & dirt I would go with turf and chains (2 link).
I got a pair of 4 link chains that have only been used once. We moved to a new house and I could not find my 2 link chains, so a picked up a 4 links at TCS. The 4 links were motivation to look harder for the 2 link chains.
Jim
Jim P. thanks for your answer. I'm also concerned about raising the compression too much if take too much off the head.
John M. I run my 123 with a front blade, I load the tires with washer fluid on all my tractors. On the 123 I also have wheel weights, turfs with chains and weight stacked on the back. The turf with chains will give the best traction.
John M. I run my 123 with a front blade, I load the tires with washer fluid on all my tractors. On the 123 I also have wheel weights, turfs with chains and weight stacked on the back. The turf with chains will give the best traction.
