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Archive through September 13, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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hydroharry

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Jul 22, 2007
Messages
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Harry Bursell
Amy - I'm still wondering what the parts book shows for replacement bearings. No one else has chimed in so I'll have to look at my Parts Book tonite. Now, about removing the other bearing. Any chance you can get another pic where we can see the shaft from the front. I'm not really understanding how this is set up.

Keith O - that's a nice looking 1450. It's the perfect unit for all around chores. I had one for about 15 years and loved it. Of course over those 15 years I saw the inside of just about everything. I really hated to let it go when I moved but I couldn't keep everything. I actually thought no one else's seat would fit on the mold I made to the seat. It was a high back like yours.
 
Mike C you said "no CC's worth buying"
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????

Keith O that is a nice looking 1450
 
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My bad. However, I'm ready to compromise.
Please give me this:
Mowing should be done at WOT. Other jobs such as whatever those other jobs may be can be done at less than WOT.
I'm having a hard time with the theory that lower RPM's means less heat over the engine.
 
Harry,I sure will take another picture,Ill try to get one for later.I got busy mowing and making dinner.That bracket is for the shear pin for the sprocket I believe.
 
Amy - that bracket sure looks odd shaped, and I was hoping to see what the sprocket mounting area looks like. It's hard to believe you can't get the bearing off without removing the shaft (course I guess there are many ways you could get it off - but using those methods the reverse wouldn't work to get a new one on). Your next pic is sure gonna be worth at least 1000 words. (the other two have rated there already).
 
Frank, I know I am breaking the rule/instruction but I nor my designated operator of the day cut at WOT normaly, there are times when we do but I would say we go 3/4 on average.

Except this year I am not really sure we cut at all...
 
Harry,
I am guessing they put the grease zerks on the inside of the rim to lessen the chance of them being damaged? Same sort of thinking when the valve stems are on the inside of the rims on the bigger tractors. Easy to access when you dump the trailer, or you can stand it on the tailgate end. It has a chanel that has been cut inside the rim sleeve or bushing. There are no bearings on these trailers. Or at least mine doesn't have any. 4 or 5 shots of grease in it coats the axle pretty good and no squeeking!
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Amy & others...
Just throwing it out there, but I think you have the cheaper style bearins that you must replace the entire assembly (flange & bearing)
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Not sure...but if so - THAT SUCKS!
 
Ok ,I havent figured out how to post pics yet so I emailed them to you Harry...I hope those help ?
 
I'm new here - although I've followed this forum for over a year now, this is my first post. I just recently got my dream CC, a 1980 IH built 982. I'm in the process of refurbishing it - stripping off everything so I can weld up a crack in LH frame rail. My question relates to the Onan engine, which I don't have any experience with. Although the engine runs good and doesn't smoke, it leaks several drops of oil out the rubber breather tube that is connected to the RH top of crankcase after you run it for a few minutes. I assume this probably is caused by piston ring blow-by. But since this engine has a crankcase breather piped to the air cleaner, I'm surprised that there would be enough crankcase pressure to blow the oil out this tube. Anybody else have similar experience with their Onan? Any solutions other than new rings or just put up with this oil dripping out the breather? Thanks,
 
Frank,

I haven't really followed the posts here lately, but I am guessing that you are discussing throttle positions for tasks. You suggest that mowing should be done at WOT.

I always thought snnow blowing was the hardest on the tractor. With working in the cold, and the need to get the stuff out of the way would require WOT as well. Is that correct?

I may start looking for a blower attachment for the nightmare. I suppose I would need a spring assist, too.


The only things that should be green and yellow are the NDSU Bison. GO Bison!
 
Keith, Good looking 1450 you have there. Have you met Steve H. in Troy yet? I live in Dardenne Prairie Mo, just around the corner.
 
Amy - here are the 2 pics you sent. I'll be back after I study my parts book.
244716.jpg

244717.jpg
 
I'm curious how any of you guys that cut at less than WOT are happy with the quality of cut. I've noticed that even 200 RPM can make a HUGE difference in the quality of cut.

I also don't understand why some people are so averse to running the engine under load at full throttle; it's designed to be used that way, and it explicitly states in the manual that that is how the engine should be operated.
 
Ummm... unless I'm seeing things, the only way that bearing is coming off is to the left - the right of the bearing is a shoulder that's bigger in OD than left of the bearing..as pointed out earlier, you'll need to cut the weld on the shear pin arm, pull it off, clean up the shaft and pull the bearing.
 
Amy, et al - well to start with let me clarify couple things. I incorrectly mentioned my parts book TC137. It's actually TC-157, but it's only for tractors. Now, I do have the CPE-2 parts book which is for "Equipment for Cub Cadet Tractors" so we're off and running.

According to the CPE-2 the bearings for a CW36 is Part No. 475-538-R91 which appears to be an assembly with 2 sets screws. So it must come assembled with the flanges and some type of locking collar, and you add the 5/16-18 x 3/4 bolts(3), or for some reason you add 5/16-18 x 1/2 bolts(3) (maybe they are different depending on which end of the auger they are mounted to). I also checked the CCC parts link and it still lists the same bearing assembly. In fact, the picture on line is just as poor as in my CPE-2 parts book.
Next I looked at the shaft, and I see they list a tail shaft and a drive shaft, both shown as the same item in the parts diagram, so the one with the sprocket must be the drive shaft, and the other one must be the tail shaft. Again, the diagram pic is terrible and doesn't show any detail. You have to look at the large sprocket in another diagram, and it's separate and not shown with a shaft, so it may not necessarily be welded to the shaft and you'll have to figure that one out. It also shows a serial number split where the drive shaft part number changes. Maybe this is a welded and non-welded version, it doesn't say.
Next I did a little cross checking, comparing the bearing and flanges with a QA42A and discovered the following:
Bearing No. 475-698-R91 replaces Bearing No. 475-538-R91 (your bearing) by adding 455-102-R91 Collar, and 462-360-R1 Flange(2). So, based on this you may be able to re-use your flanges and just get yourself the bearing and locking collar. (The PTO and snow thrower auger bearings are not the same, and it's very unlikely they can be interchanged. But I've changed several and it is the same). If I can find the standard bearing number I'll repost with it, or maybe someone else can tell us the bearing number marked on the actual PTO bearing they may have recently replaced (and you can get one at a good local NAPA store with the collar). You'll still have to see if the bearing will fit snugly between your 2 current flanges, and then see if locking collar can still fit onto the bearing when the flanges are in place. If not, you'll have to buy the new flanges.
I realize this doesn't help get your drive shaft removed. You'll have to figure out a method to pull/push it apart. Hopefully this is still helpful.
I'm also hopeful the rest of the thrower is in good shape. I've never actually known anyone to use a CW36 or for that matter a BB36 which is very similar. Before putting alot of money into it you might want to start looking for a QA36 or QA42 version. Your thrower has a shorter auger and the sides of the housing are winged out to measure 36. The QA's have a bigger auger and no wings on their 36 or 42 housing. I don't recall which tractor you have but if it's 1x2/1x3 or older then you'll have to figure out a method to bolt it to the frame. It's not a direct bolt on, but can be adapted. Let us know how you make out.
 
Amy and Gerry -
Gerry stated "the right of the bearing is a shoulder that's bigger in OD than left of the bearing".
I think the right of the bearing is the locking collar part of the assembly. I believe there are 2 set screws in it that hold it to the shaft. Unless the shaft will come out of the auger the sprocket and shear pin collar will both have to come off to the left before the bearing will come off. Since the parts book lists 2 shafts it must come out of the auger. I do remember seeing some augers that have a long bolt thru the end that appears to hold the auger to the shaft. Maybe removing that bolt will allow the shaft to come out of the auger, but I can't tell if that's the type of auger Amy has.
 
Well I went and bought another 125, I don't have pictures of it yet but it's in much better shape than the other one Except it's got a blown rod. The guy I got it from said it was just idealing when it went and it was not down on oil. My son's JD with same motor (Kohler 12 hp) did the same thing. Is there a problem with these?
 
Matt G - you're right. Not only is the engine designed to run at WOT, but the mowing deck blade speed is designed based on WOT, and the same for a snow thrower. Anything less gives you less blade speed and reduces cut quality, or doesn't throw the snow well. I suspect they mow slower, or possibly a narrow width.
Now I'm wondering if they are not using a tach or gauge to set their RPMs. For the longest time I never had a gauge, and finally broke down and got one of those vibration gauges like shown in the Kohler manual. I did discover my ear was very close to being correct for high speed but I was off alot at idle. (Now I suppose with all the discussions about how to set the timing, you're gonna tell me about a quality tach I should get to set RPMs - and that's ok, I'd like to know, and I'm sure the other guys would to).
I will say my ear knows pretty much when an engine is over-reving. You and I have heard enough of these engines to know by sound. Many of the guys on hear have only heard the one they have, or maybe a couple, and it's possible their WOT is actually 4000+, which does mean it's gonna come apart or it's gonna seize.

Tom F (under edit) - the 12hp Kohler K301 is one of the best engines there is. With good maintenance they'll generally run at least 2000 trouble free hours, and I suspect alot of guys get 3000 to 4000. Of all the good parts the rod is one item that does fail. You might be fortunate to have it fail at idle and the engine just stop. Some guys get a window in the block when they break at full throttle. There is also a good chance your crankshaft may be ok and just need cleaning up with muratic acid. You won't know until you clean it up good and mic it.
And back to the 2000 hours statement, compare it to a car. If you drive a car 100,000 miles, and for our discussion say your average speed is 50mph, that converts to 2000 hours of driving. So, 2000 hours on a Kohler is similar to 100,000 miles on a car. Now, we all have our own ideas of how long a car will run, but a car has pressurized oil lubrication and your Kohler is just flinging the oil, so after 2000 hours on a Kohler anything can happen.
 
Harry and Amy...
This pic from the CW36 manual shows a bolt in the end of he shaft... maybe that's what holds the stub in. Note that it does seem that the bearings should be replaceable without cutting anything.. I went down that road when it was suggested the stub was not removable.
244720.jpg
 

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