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Archive through September 10, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Frank S,
IIRC, The front pulley may spin if there is not a belt on it... In the manual, when running the engine w/o an attachment on it, the operator must engage the PTO once started. If it is not engaged, the PTO will get hot and burn.... (ask me how I know) HTH
 
Richard T...I'm here...kinda laying in the weeds..you mean to tell me you couldn't use those old ball bearings I see in the worm gear..
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You are doing a great job on that Cub.....thanks for the tip.

Matt G...back in God's country I see....I always thought that's why we have so much humidity..the ocean...
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Agreed to help a friend and look at his Murray that kicks the belt when going in reverse...Sure makes you appreciate our CUBS....sorta the antithesis of each other if you know what I mean...

Charlie, thanks for a great site...good people...great info...I remember a time when Denny wouldn't type more than two sentences....now I can't wait for his offer of help....
 
Back to the subject of friction welding, I found that AMF built early machines that were used for welding steering worm shafts. They called thier process flywheel friction welding. However I am having a hard time trying to find if that technology was available as early as the 60-75 period. If Lousiville had that equipment then it was state of the art and cutting edge for that period. http://www.sme.org/cgi-bin/find-articles.pl?&01my0064&ME&20010502&&SME&
 
front PTO on a 129.
serial number is in the 451941 - 454910 range, so it is probably a 129.

maybe I am looking at a mechanical PTO clutch that is missing a lot of pieces.

does the PTO linkage hit an electric switch under the dash? a safety switch perhaps?

on my 128, the PTO linkage runs from the engage handle on the left side, through the tower and out the right side. the 129, the linkage runs through the left side of the tower, but doesn't exit the tower. within the tower, behind the dash, there is a metal bar on the linkage that hits an electric switch when you engage the PTO.

just trying to figure out what kind of a PTO I have, and how many parts are missing.
 
frank snerd

I have a 129 and it has the brake style pto.some models did have the older style . I never heard of a 129 with a electric pto. Do you think that 12 hp K might have come out of a newer tractor, possible a quiet line ?
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Terry,
I don't mind at all,either does Red Green.
How come some of these cubs turn a shade of pink when they are left out in the sun????
 
Lewis,,,,,, what color do you turn when you get to much sun.......LOLOLOOL
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KEVIN H. - The steering gear boxes were purchased complete as a whole assembly by IH, and JD, probably WH, Economy, and maybe others like Simplicity/Allis Chalmers, etc. They're a ROSS gear box, now part of TRW. Not sure if they were a stand-alone company before that or owned by someone else. Maybe ROSS was an AMF company! AMF got into LOTS of other businesses, I know they owned Harley-Davidson back in the late 1960's, until about 1975. You could buy an AMF bowling alley, or golf cart, or an AMF Harley!

All IHC did at LVL with them was install the two cap screws into the gearbox thru the frame cross member and attach the steering wheel & tie rod to the pitman arm.

The company mentioned frequently in that article, American Friction Welding, is the same company I mentioned in my earlier post. I worked down the street a block on the "Other" side of the road for nine years from them.

I've never been lucky enough in my purchasing career to ever buy anything really NEAT, like friction welded parts. But I have bought HUGE Hastalloy centrifugal castings over four feet in diameter, almost five feet tall. And a LOT of stellite investment cast parts for valves in extremely high pressure piston pumps. And some other kinda neat stuff. I had to find someone who could drill a 2-1/4" dia. hole thru an 8" dia. machine tool spindle about seven feet long, then a 1-1/2 in. dia. hole the rest of the way thru the forging which was just a hair over fifteen feet in total length.

FUNNY, but actually SAD story, One of SON's professor's at college wrote a sizable amount of "The Machinist Handbook" something over a third of the thing. Son had a "story problem" where the Prof. wanted a box made with two shafts sticking out the sides for the box to pivot or swing on. SON suggested "Friction Welding" the studs or shafts onto the box and the PROF claims he NEVER heard of the process. REALLY sad because the University used to be the foremost Engineering School in the country. Several Astronauts graduated from the place. Now their most talented Prof's are thirty years BEHIND current manufacturing technology.

ANYHOW, To keep this post ON TOPIC, I did push my CC 70 out of the shop and BACK into the shop today. I would have started it but I had other work to do.
 
Richard T.
If your 149 has a hydraulic lift or you plan to add one someday, you do need to make sure the tube of the steering box assembly is well-secured to the main housing, as the lift lever is linked to the valve assembly, which in turn is secured to the steering box. My tube was a "little loose" and would go up and down as I operated the lever until I drilled a couple of holes in the housing where the tube slides in, and secured the tube with a couple of screws. Of course, the best time to do this is before you reassemble the box, put it back in the tractor, and attach the valve body, linkage, and hydraulic lines. BTDT.
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Dennis, You are correct. I forgot that the steering box was a purchased part from Ross. From what I can find, friction welding technology was brought about by what usually drive new manufacturing technologies. The aerospace industry and the military. They needed this technology to manufacture piping and pumps for missiles and rocket engines. I could be wrong but the 1960s time frame seems awful early for this technology to find its way into something like steering boxes for garden tractors. To keep this on topic, I think this weekend I will go over the snow thrower and get it ready..I guess winter is not far off!
 
I just picked up a 125 that has been sitting outside for 3 years. It is in OK shape and I have gotten it to run after cleaning the carb.

The hydro works well enough for being in the weather so long, however the neutral return doesn't work. I think there is something wrong with the cam in the tower.

I removed the steering column so I could see the cam in action. I can move the hydro adjust lever from forward to reverse, but unless the lever is at neutral already, I can't push on the brake pedal. The pedal moves freely when the lever is already in neutral.

Putting the lever into forward and stepping on the brake, I see the speed control centering cam hit the pin which should force the lever into neutral. The brake wont move any further and the lever wont go to neutral.

I just sprayed everything with penetrating oil and I will check it again in the morning.

Do the edges of the cam need to be greased? Or is there something else I need to adjust?

I did not see anything in the operators or service manuals. I haven't done anything with the neutral adjust under the cover where the fender meets the frame since when the lever on the dash is at N, the tractor stops.

Now I have a 125, a 127 and a 147. I may need to build a shed, or get rid of something.
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Kevin, Dennis,
Are not the spuds/bushings/sleeves, or what ever you want to call them, that the rock shaft and front axle pivot pin go thru "welded" inside the frame by a similar friction (I always heard it called spin welding} welding process?
 
Charlie, I read your post in the sandbox...checked out the site analysis page. Just for the heck of it, I compared the forum page to google...we're almost there, just another 149 million. LOL. Anyway, keeping on topic...after I finish up nightshift Sunday morning and watch the Steelers hopefully win, I plan on rearranging the shed and getting the snowblower and the plow ready for winter. I'm getting back surgery on Monday and figured I better get that too heavy blower where I need it for when the snow flies...which is coming all too soon. Nick
 
Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine) (Fcurrier)-

I figured out I need to post pics of this 129 yesterday. I am hoping to get back over to see the tractor again tomorrow, 9-11, and take some pics.

I really think it is the same, standard mechanical clutch, my 128 has, but some parts are missing.

the only thing I cannot explain, and I am surprised no one has tried to explain, why does the PTO engage/disengage handle go into the tower, stop half way through and engage a switch?
I will try to photograph the linkage in the tower as well, but that might not be possible.
I have checked the parts lookup, and a switch is not listed.
 
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Richard Tunison (Rtunison) on Tuesday, September 07, 2010 - 05:01 pm:

Cool pictures Tristian. I love my 129. I know there is a graph or something about angles of operation.. someone else will chime in. <!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
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Thanks Richard. And I know it was delayed a few days I havent been on the last two nights. But I think leaving my question till after the pics and it got missed...

Does anyone know how much of an angle is safe for these cubs? And which way is worse, like up or down or side to side? Just curious... its a pretty steep hill going out back the farm and it takes a few minutes driving each way for firewood.
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