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Archive through September 10, 2010
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I have found that my 108/128 has a slow drain on the battery. It seems to be charging ok but while probing around I found a small voltage reading on the F terminal at the s/g. The key was in the off position. Is this a sign of v/r problems? It hasn't been that long since I went through and cleaned terminals, etc on this tractor.
I'd appreciate an electrical minded soul to chime in. It's not one of my strong suits.
I'd appreciate an electrical minded soul to chime in. It's not one of my strong suits.
PAUL B. - Aren't the rockshafts held in bushings in the frames only on WF's? I think the NF's used the little triangle brackets bolted to the frame that support the back of the foot rests. At least my 70 & 72 are, guess I haven't paid that much attention to the higher HP later NF's like 104/124/105/125's.
The only tractor I ever really did any work on the frt axle pivot pin was my old 129, I got the pin to replace the pivot on my 72 but haven't got around to installing it the last 6-7 yrs! I got the new pivot pin, and a BIG 5/8" fine thread bolt and pulled the channel together to tighten up the play in the frt axle. Once I got the retaining pin out and the old pivot pin out I really didn't pay much attention how the bushings were installed. They may have been friction or spin welded. Another possibility would be similar to spot welding, using a high current discharge. We used "Stud Welding" on machines I used to buy parts for 20 yrs ago. The process & equipment would be similar but the elec. discharge would have to be bigger IMHO since the surface area would be much larger. The studs we welded were Stainless going onto stainless, only about 1/4" dia stud onto 3/16" thk mat'l, but if you tried to remove the stud it would break the stud above the weld or pull the metal out of the rect. tubing the stud was welded to, the weld joint was stronger than parent metals.
KEVIN H. - I agree 100%, much of the GOOD STUFF We take for granted now was developed for the military. I got into a really nice conversation on the off-topic forum about these ROSS steering boxes a month or two ago. The jd tractors use the same gearbox as CC's. One poster even included a link to Richard C's FAQ here about his rebuild! The actual design is pretty good, I just think that a gray iron casting instead of the diecast housing, and maybe a thicker steering tube would have improved their durability a L-O-T! My CC #72 is a '68 vintage, I got it used in Jan. '81 and rebuilt the gearbox the first time in about '84 or '85, then again about '91 or so. And I replaced the whole gearbox with a NEW one four yrs ago. And I paid MORE for the new gearbox than I paid for the whole tractor & mower.
RICK ALBERT - You keep making comments about my posts like that, and you WILL have to post more often!
The only tractor I ever really did any work on the frt axle pivot pin was my old 129, I got the pin to replace the pivot on my 72 but haven't got around to installing it the last 6-7 yrs! I got the new pivot pin, and a BIG 5/8" fine thread bolt and pulled the channel together to tighten up the play in the frt axle. Once I got the retaining pin out and the old pivot pin out I really didn't pay much attention how the bushings were installed. They may have been friction or spin welded. Another possibility would be similar to spot welding, using a high current discharge. We used "Stud Welding" on machines I used to buy parts for 20 yrs ago. The process & equipment would be similar but the elec. discharge would have to be bigger IMHO since the surface area would be much larger. The studs we welded were Stainless going onto stainless, only about 1/4" dia stud onto 3/16" thk mat'l, but if you tried to remove the stud it would break the stud above the weld or pull the metal out of the rect. tubing the stud was welded to, the weld joint was stronger than parent metals.
KEVIN H. - I agree 100%, much of the GOOD STUFF We take for granted now was developed for the military. I got into a really nice conversation on the off-topic forum about these ROSS steering boxes a month or two ago. The jd tractors use the same gearbox as CC's. One poster even included a link to Richard C's FAQ here about his rebuild! The actual design is pretty good, I just think that a gray iron casting instead of the diecast housing, and maybe a thicker steering tube would have improved their durability a L-O-T! My CC #72 is a '68 vintage, I got it used in Jan. '81 and rebuilt the gearbox the first time in about '84 or '85, then again about '91 or so. And I replaced the whole gearbox with a NEW one four yrs ago. And I paid MORE for the new gearbox than I paid for the whole tractor & mower.
RICK ALBERT - You keep making comments about my posts like that, and you WILL have to post more often!
the PTO clutch on a 129. this was taken from the top looking down, so it has a "standing on my head" feel.
Is this the standard clutch, and is it missing parts, besides linkage?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QsHj23RJZ6I
in the next video I am trying to figure out if the linkage should look like this.
you will see a switch first, then the linkage will contact the switch as i move the PTO engage/disengage handle.
next you will see the right side of the tower, then the left.
If I am just missing linkage, is it supposed to exit the right side like my 128? because the linkage ends at that welded looking spot. there is a hole to the left, but the internal linkage does not line up with it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHWOL7o02kc
so, my question is, do I just buy the standard clutch linkage, or is this a different type of PTO clutch?
Is this the standard clutch, and is it missing parts, besides linkage?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QsHj23RJZ6I
in the next video I am trying to figure out if the linkage should look like this.
you will see a switch first, then the linkage will contact the switch as i move the PTO engage/disengage handle.
next you will see the right side of the tower, then the left.
If I am just missing linkage, is it supposed to exit the right side like my 128? because the linkage ends at that welded looking spot. there is a hole to the left, but the internal linkage does not line up with it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHWOL7o02kc
so, my question is, do I just buy the standard clutch linkage, or is this a different type of PTO clutch?
Check this thread it has pics of a 125, the parts are not the same but will give you an idea of whats missing on your cub.
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/106/152739.html#POST135007
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/106/152739.html#POST135007
Here is a good video of the PTO operating.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ego5WnxHxM4&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ego5WnxHxM4&feature=related
Fred-
A 129 and 128 are identical except for the hydro vs the gear. The po has done some stuff to the 129 but the pto handle, linkage, switch, and the mechanical pto (which is what you have) are the same, or suppose to be. The only thing that could differ is the front of the pto depending on when it was made. IH changed to the braking pto after a certain time while these models were being produced. This was a safety issue for the stupid tractor owners. Check your serial number then you can look up what type of pto was originally on that particular tractor. You're also missing the engage lever in the first Youtube you posted. I'd also pull that pto and go through it; just clean it up, resurface the pressure plates and maybe put a "kit" in it.
Hope this helps.
A 129 and 128 are identical except for the hydro vs the gear. The po has done some stuff to the 129 but the pto handle, linkage, switch, and the mechanical pto (which is what you have) are the same, or suppose to be. The only thing that could differ is the front of the pto depending on when it was made. IH changed to the braking pto after a certain time while these models were being produced. This was a safety issue for the stupid tractor owners. Check your serial number then you can look up what type of pto was originally on that particular tractor. You're also missing the engage lever in the first Youtube you posted. I'd also pull that pto and go through it; just clean it up, resurface the pressure plates and maybe put a "kit" in it.
Hope this helps.
Frank, The only difference in your 128 and 129 could be whether it has a brake on the PTO clutch or not. I don't know what the serial number break is. To me, it looks like your first video that "mechanical" clutch (without a brake) was run without the fiber button allowing the vertical bar that pushes against the clutch to wear into the steel button on the PTO clutch, that would explain why it's missing that piece. Look at your 128? the linkage should be the same up to the piece that contacts the clutch. With the brake would be a round piece (with a notch at the botom that fits over the vertical bar to keep it from spinning) attached with a bolt and spring loaded, without the brake there is just a fiber button on the vertical bar that contacts the clutch. Which clutch does your 128 have, with or without brake?
Frank S, not Fred (sorry)
Sometimes I just get ahead of myself.
Also about that pto, you can put it back as a non brake and that will save you money. The parts for the braking pto are very expensive compared to the earlier ones. All you will need is the thrust button and wear button after you acquire the front lever and whatever else you're going to need for that style. I changed one last year on a 128 from the braking to the original type. All the braking pto does is stop the blades a little faster than the original and satisfy OSHA (or whoever did the complaining).
Sometimes I just get ahead of myself.
Also about that pto, you can put it back as a non brake and that will save you money. The parts for the braking pto are very expensive compared to the earlier ones. All you will need is the thrust button and wear button after you acquire the front lever and whatever else you're going to need for that style. I changed one last year on a 128 from the braking to the original type. All the braking pto does is stop the blades a little faster than the original and satisfy OSHA (or whoever did the complaining).
WTH is going on here today!
We've got guys posting links to past problems AND links to items in question!
Holy Crap!
What's next, detailed pics of what it looks like and how to fix it?
WELL DONE GUYS!
We've got guys posting links to past problems AND links to items in question!
Holy Crap!
What's next, detailed pics of what it looks like and how to fix it?
WELL DONE GUYS!
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