• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through September 10, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Charlie, I'm ahead of you, read my post on the archived page.
happy.gif
BTW, the "bare metal prep" is a spray that you spray onto BARE METAL to help the paint stick.
bash.gif
There were a couple of parts that I never sprayed primer onto after I sprayed them with the "bare metal prep" stuff and the "bare metal prep" stuff flaked off too.
1a_scratchhead.gif
 
Charlie, nice!

Dustin, I see your profile lists a 128 and a 129 and I can't seem to find weights for those models.
bash.gif
However a model 1250 with a lights and a 3 point hitch but without fuel weighs 670lbs (should be within a few pounds of a 128) and a 1450 with hydraulic lift, lights and a 3 point hitch but without fuel weighs 690lbs (should be within a few pounds of a 129 if it has hydraulic lift).
 
Dustin-
I don't have exact weights, but I've started a spreadsheet to calculate various combinations of options (such as if you had a 10hp engine in a 70). I've compared with advertising litereature, I'm not 100% on but am usually within a few pounds. It's not too hard to set up, I do the same thing with new fire trucks frequently. I may not have some of the weights 100% right, I'm slowly tweaking items as the spreadsheet evolves.
93930.jpg
 
Farmer that owns the land behind us gave me the OK to pull the old fence out (gonna cut wood on his land this year and this'll give me a straight shot to our place..) The 50 year old fence was buried in sod for the first foot or so up. I took a shovel and did about a foot and said "CUB, I got a job for ya". A chain, vice grips and five minutes took care of 45 feet of buried fence and made one of the neatest little ditches I've ever dug...The 129 didn't even work up a sweat..
93934.jpg

93935.jpg
 
Charlie i`am haveing a problem returning your emails, can you post the last pictures you sent me? because i bought the same machine with what looks like a 8 K engine sitting on the left rear and this is what runs the frail mower and has is like new. lol life is good. later Don T
thumbsup_old.gif
 
Did Cub Cadet Narrow frames ever have a IH york rake/back blade combo,or is this a allied attachment?
Some one is selling one by me and I wanted to check with anyone who has info on this .
 
Ben Meddles
Yes and no. You can remove the shifter and top plate from the transmission and count the teeth, however that is not easy to do with the transaxle in the frame, it's a bit hard (like almost impossible) get the front bolts out of the top plate.
 
I can't imagine I'm the first to have done this, but the recent posts about what a pain it is to mount the subframe for a front dozer/snow blade got me out in the shop to make a small modification that I've been wanting to do ever since I mounted my first blade.

93945.jpg


I just added about an inch to the end of the tips that sit on the shaft under the tractor. This lets me slide the subframe under the tractor and rest the extended area on the shaft. Then I can walk around to the front and lift the front up and mount it without the subframe falling off the shaft.

I'm sure there are others that have done this, but I haven't heard of any so I figured I'd post a pic. It surprises me that IH didn't do something like this at the factory. Now it is truly a "quick attach" blade instead of only a "quick detach".

I also added the cross brace while I was at it. I need to hit it with a little paint now and I'll be a little closer to ready for winter.
 
Kraig and Randy,
You can view DWG files by using the free DWG TrueView™ program from Autodesk. Here's a link to the page. You do need to fill out a bit of info before downloading it, but it's no big deal. It is a viewer only, you can't do any editing.
Look in the upper right corner for the DWG TrueView™ icon, and download it.
http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/index?id=6703438&siteID=123112&DCMP=ILC-DWG-PUV
 
Last week I just had to brag to someone about how my 149 never breaks. That was a mistake. The roll pin in the driveshaft broke twice within a week. Can't you upgrade the driveline on these to a rubber coupler on each side, front and back? Is that how the quietlines are? And does that eliminate alot of problems? I remember the 147 we had when we were kids and we sure did go through alot of pins. Thanks, Nick
 
Nick Yes you can upgrade to rubber and couplers on both end like 1450 has thats what I did to my 149 have to figure out where to drill hole in shaft on front side but no big deal to do and it works great. Jim
 
I got home today and there was a box from Vogt Performance Engineering in the mail. I opened it to find all the parts I need to fix the debilitated spindle on my 100's mower deck. I was so pleased to see these used parts in such good condition. Everything I needed and little more was included. I can hardly wait to fix the deck and get back to mowing (not that the cub hasn't helped me move some fallen tree pieces around while the mower was out of commission).

Thanks Don!!!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top