Archive through September 09, 2005

[tcbusch]

FWIW,
I use dinosaur oil in my 4.3 liter vortex 4x4 blazer and I change it every 7500 miles. I have 185,000 miles on it. Starts great doesn't smoke or knock or ping or nothing. Just purrs like a kitten.

I waited too long to change the oil in my 73 once and it started smoking. I learned my lesson. A hour meter would be a nice addition to the cluster.

 

[mgonitzke]

Jeff M.-

You need a carb kit, especially the needle and seat. When that goes bad it causes gas to come out of the air cleaner. You may want to change the oil after you fix the carb.

 

[rmunday]

Bryan - Sweet!

 

[jgeorg]

Digger wrote: NEXT, it went into out Tahoe, well that was even better, gas mileage increased by 5 GPM.

Dang Charlie, what were you getting for mileage?

 

[mgonitzke]

Would that be gallons per mile or gallons per minute?

 

[digger]

LOL, just a little dyslexic today it seems!
MPG, yea that's it! Ain't it?

 

[jegstad]

More on the oil thing. Whenever I flew (and I did that a lot when I was still working) and sat near the wing area I usually could see a label on the engine nacelle that said Mobil 1 or Shell (something). I never saw a label that said Royal Purple, Schaeffer, or any of the other miracle oils. I wonder why?

 

[digger]

Jim C.
Yea it's been done.
Grumpy Kentucky Ken done it a while back.
Steve B. is doin one, dunno if he ever got time to get it finished or not.

 

[sblunier]

Charlie,

No, it's not done yet....but I did move it around in the shed last weekend...does that count???

 

[digger]

Steve,
If it moved under it's own power, yea that counts.
If it didn't, I think they call that cheatin!

 

[jgeorg]

Jim C. Here is something I did to my 109 about 15 years ago. I basicly just pulled out the existing linkage and turned it sideways. Put the foot pedal where the hand lever used to be. Welded on the extra bar to connect to the hydro linkage but everything else is still stock and changable back to the original design. A 1250 will be a bit different but it's an idea to maybe work on. I picked up a 1450 recently and it's mighty hard to go back to the stock control. May have to do something with that too.

 

[svtritle]

I agree that the price is pretty high. I guess the results I have seen make it worthwhile, and I feel comforable extending my changes a bit.

I do have to admit though, our work trucks running the conventional go 100,000 miles of gravel, dirt, cornfield, and college kid abuse without using a drop (except the new Chevy's with the 8.1, which use oil new).

 

[cspencer]

Greetings!!.Lurking..i like that..but, seriously, i find this site is a wealth of information, so i read alot , gather info, and don't talk much..i do have a few questions, one is where do i get those washers to fix the throttle shafts on the carbs(cubfaq.com)?..the other is about a 2 stage snowblower i have..when i can figure out how to make my pictures smaller, i'll post again..i'm a proud owner of an original, 102, 106, and a 108 all found around here at garage sales..back to lurking...

 

[dcole]

Hi,

My cousin and I rebuilt his 125 earlier this summer and, for the most part put it back together with the correct factory parts. One of the few modifications we made was to put a roll pin in place of the broken solid pin where the engine connects to the drive shaft. I figured this would be ok since all of my gear drives run just fine with the roll pins.

We had no problems driving it around, but just recently he attached the mower and has subsequently sheared 3 roll pins. Obviously I realize that the only way to correct this is to go back to the old solid pin, but should this be happening?

Thanks,
Dan Cole

 

[bmcmeen]

Dan C -

Yes it should be happening - a roll pin IS NOT the same as the original hardened steel pin! I don't think it's the mower that caused it, though. You were on shaky ground to begin with.

There's a reason the engineers chose a solid pin over a roll pin

 

[wheinsohn]

Dan C.,
Also check the adapter on the back of the engine. Is the slot straight or "L" shaped from wear. If it is "L" shaped, replace it because that will shear any pin off much quicker. My 109 would shear off at least one of the solid pins a year until I replaced the adapter. I haven't had to replace it in over 3 years and that includes pulling a plow with it at Plow Days.

 

[mgonitzke]

Jim E.-

That's because Royal Purple and Scheaffer's don't manufacture aviation oil. That's a business in itself, although I do think Mobil makes aviation oil. The other common brands of aviation oil are Aeroshell and Phillips 66. The Cessna 152's I fly use those two. I should also mention that most small aircraft use really strange weights of oil. (5w-60 and 5w-80 I think) Not the same stuff you put in your car. I'll assume it wasn't that long ago you were working, so you probably flew on a turbine-powered aircraft, which probably uses another totally different type of oil.

 

[digger]

Jim C.
Try this link for a short video.
CLICK HERE

 

[rbedell]

Chris S:

I use these Kohler Bushings for Throttle Shaft repairs:

I have had good luck with taking the wobble and reducing air leakage with these.

 

[stanner]

Don B..

that looks like a JD 110-ish era rim... 60's...