Archive through September 06, 2018

[mgonitzke]

I have one of those giant Vise-Grips, too. I don't use it often, but there are times nothing else will work.

 

[jharder]

I own 4 pair of those. 4 pair of 6in straight jaw,4 pair of 6in curved, 4 pair of 8in straight, 4pair of 8in curved 4 pair of either 10 or 12in again straight and 4 curved. plus over a dozen pair of c clamp vice grips starting at 4inch to that size or bigger. And have made my own c clamps up to 24inchs deep. Have no clue as to how many different clamps and styles I truly do own. The all get used. and believe it or not there have been jobs come up I still need more.

 

[eford]

Um, wow! I can only imagine your projects Jim!

 

[mfrade]

Parts arrived from CCS. (thanks Charlie).

So I got the 169 restarted today. Still cranks hard, you can actually see when the cylinder fires off, it brings the starter generator to a stop! So I gotta somehow adjust the compression release I believe.

 

[sblunier]

Keep going Dave!!!! Get that PS on there!!! Get creative, maybe a bell crank and a longer/heavier tie rod to move the cylinder behind the loader bracket and under the footrest????

A loader without PS is not a useful loader

 

[dschwandt]

Thanks Steve.
One question. The sector is a Ross unit w/5 ports.
LT, RT, IN & Out plus aux.
I will not be using the OEM hyd lift stuff and will be tying directly into the ported pump for supply.
So, do I just cap that aux port??

 

[ksymons]

I have a 129 that I'm having a rebuilt engine installed in. My question concerns the head. I've read that a head can be planed down by using the wet sand paper method; however, the guy who is working on redoing the engine for me indicates that this is not a good way to do it. Rather, he said that the heads really should be milled. Any thoughts on this? I mean, I can understand if it's warped, but otherwise, it would seem that if the head is flat, then it's flat. Thanks...

 

[sblunier]

Aux is supply for the hyd lift valve, after the steering priority valve.

 

[jharder]

Keith, The problem is in the way some do it. Now I do not see a problem with the wet sandpaper trick. The key part of that being keeping the paper flat. You could use a flat block of wood to wrap the paper around. Myself I use a sharpening stone. start out with the coarse side then finish with the fine. I use P.B. Blaster as the wetting agent. On aluminum it takes a lot off in a short order and with the course side of the stone it don't take much time to remove a lot. Then clean it all off with brake cleaner. I am sure there is other ways that others like but it always worked fore me. Good luck. Jim

 

[sblunier]

Keith,

Lay the paper on something like a pane of glass or the machined surface of your table saw table, or even a good flat countertop. Wet with penetrating oil and sand with even pressure until all surfaces are smooth.