Archive through September 03, 2013

[kwaldeck]

Looking for a little advise on electric lifts.
I have a 127 with an electric lift. I have replaced the brushes but it still wants to work intermittently( if I tap on it, it usually works) I sometimes use my snow blower on the machine and the lift is slow. Is this just the way they work ? Am I better off switching to a manual lift ? Is there a after market option ?
Any advise would be appreciated.

 

[rbeem]

Here is a picture of my newly acquired 129. I added the BKT trencher tires and the super steer front axle, otherwise this is how I got it. Headlights and hydraulic lift to boot. Has been totally stripped and redone, but PO had some problems finishing things up and getting fine tuned.
The carburetor had been painted inside...and out (including the float bowl). Sandblast sand in the tank did not help either. A carb soak and kit plus a different tank and timing got it fired.
So far runs clean, but it has a WILD governor. I reset it a couple times, but I suspect problems on the inside.
I've got a Johnson workhorse loader for it after its dialed in. I'm digging everywhere for foot-hydro ideas.
I did find a foot lever I had bought a few years back on the shelf....forgot about that.

 

[thoffman]

David,
Next time try the Rustoleum almond colored Epoxy Applience paint. It's near nuz on and real tough.

 

[sblunier]

https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/106/14968.html

My loader ideas.....

 

[sblunier]

Note: I never finished that project, traded for a loader on a SGT frame that fixed 3/4 of the problems....still want foot control though, and will get to it soon.....

 

[dfrisk]

RICK B. - Now I think I've heard EVERYTHING! Somebody PAINTED the insides of a carb?

It's next to impossible to keep paint on the outside of a carb let alone paint the inside so it can sluff off and plug all those teeny-tiny jets.

While sand blasting is a great way to prep things for paint, you have to be REALLY careful with it. I've blasted a lot of stuff outside my shop on my crushed rock drive into my shop, but the fine grained quartz sand I use always finds it's way inside my shop, mostly from wheel traffic, even walking into the shop carries it in on my shoes. I wouldn't think of ever blasting things like an asembly, or an engine block or gearbox casting. You'd NEVER get all the sand out of it again.

 

[jchamberlin]

Harry: On the Heat Baffle, I've confirmed that Wes Heinsohn is correct, the total length of the flat pattern should be a little more than 3/32" longer than the the total measurements of the outside "mold lines" of the finished piece. I also learned that the measurement of the length needs taken consistently on either the outside or the inside of the bend. I suspect that when you measured the up-turn from the cylinder head to the muffler "plateau" you were measuring on the inside of the angle, where the other measurements were taken on the outside of the bend. Thus, I would need to add the positive inside compensation value (where the metal is compressed from the imaginary neutral axis) for the up-turned 35 degree angle, as well as subtract the outside compensation value (where the metal is stretched from the neutral axis) for one 35 degree and one 45 degree bend, which turns out to be slightly more than 3/64" --which as Wes noted shouldn't make much difference. Long story short, I should be able to cut a piece of sheet metal 10-7/16" long, bend it, and come out with a finished part 9-3/4" long, or at least close enough not even the most seasoned judge will be able to tell it apart from the original (I think). Thank you so much for your help on this project. I will post a sketch depicting flat and finished parts when I am done.

Meanwhile, a very gracious member of this forum has offered to send me the baffle from his currently idle 169 so that I can verify the details necessary for construction beyond what you have already given.

It will be next week at the earliest before I can post further developments. My wife and I are taking some time this weekend, and I'm leaving the laptop behind for a trip to the beach, or as they say in New Jersey, "down the shore."

For those interested, I recommend the site SheetMetalGuy and the Wikipedia article on K-Factor for metal bending, both sites helped me understand the finer points of bending metal. The thickness of 14 GA carbon steel is 0.0747" and the thickness of 14 GA stainless steel is 0.750" I used a K-Factor of 40 in my calculations to locate the neutral axis of a relatively hard material like carbon steel which is being air bent at a radius less than or equal to its thickness.

 

[rbeem]

Dennis,

Sandblasters are dangerous in the wrong hands for sure.

Yes, whoever did it get points for effort. The carb "was" excellant and shows almost no wear...near NOS. But....even the butterflys were sand blasted...good grief.
The front axle had been broken in half, then put back together, welded with plates.Seriously...my bad axles would have been better to start with.
This is however, the first Cub that I have ever bought that had clean fresh oil. That includes several purchased from Forum members!

I'm super happy with the purchase, but always surprised with what I find from previous owners work.

Steve B.
Thanks for the Link.....I remember that from way back!

 

[dfrisk]

RICK - I think it was Travis, Wyatt, & Steve B who compared coffee cans full of "Bent Nails" used in place of hair pin clips, cotter keys, & roll pins on used CC's they'd bought over the years. Just for the record, NO BENT nails on ANY of my Cc's.

I was never happy with the way the carb worked and ran on the K321 I built up, did the throttle shaft repair, complete clean & repair kit install with a full can of spray carb cleaner & compressed air and it still didn't run to suit me. I finally bought a gallon soak can of carb cleaner 2 yrs ago and rebuilt the carb one last time and after soaking it for two days it performed MUCH better, little fine tuning and it runs like I expected it should. I see lots of people recommend buying stuff at their local NAPA store but my local store is really poor. That gal. can of carb cleaner was about the ONLY thing I've gone in there to buy that they actually had.

My 982 had just been seriously refurbished, almost a 100-point restoration just before I bought it, had maybe 15-16 hours on it, mostly driving around antique tractor shows. The hydro trunnion was really worn and repaired with a "COTTER KEY", but I fixed that 5-6 yrs ago. Complete rebuild of the Onan, new paint, four new tires, dash plastic, driveshaft & rag joints, seat, etc. But I paid dearly for it, but glad I got it.

 

[dtanner]

To all - I have a tractor here that has -40 washer fluid in the tubes. I`am thinking it takes more hp to run a tire with washer fluid than it would take if the tractor had solid IH weights.I think with speed you should loose HP to turn the liquid weight verses the sold weight. Anyone got an IDEA as to how much hp wasted???

I would think as the wheel turned faster the fluid would be trying to catch up.

Well I could be bored lol