Archive through October 30, 2009

[drohacek]

Bob,
Sounds like you may have a problem with your connections. Your losing current through bad/corroded connections I think. When you put additional current in from a running vehicle it pushes through the bad connections anyway. Clean all of your connections from the ground and hot on the battery up to and include a good cleaning on your starter posts. This should take care of it.

 

[drohacek]

One more thing Bob, I took a minute to look at your profile and see that your from Mn. Remember, those hydros take a lot of current to turn them over when it gets cold because your turning the pump at the same time.

 

[dfrisk]

HEY WYATT! Yeah, We discussed the draper chain idea in the little cart to make it self-unloading one afternoon in the shop didn't We? I think there were "Malted Beverages" involved.

My original idea on the blower was actually patterned after an IH silage blower. Problem with that idea was there's an auger or conveyor chain to move the silage into the impeller. There wasn't near enough air movement so I had to rebuild the blower housing and the frame and make it a centrifugal blower.

 

[rpalmer]

frank snerd,
when first installed, engine ran fine, except for the stalling problem that was present before the new carb was installed.

after the new carb was installed, i lost the spark, no electricity to the coil.

You bet.. I'm confused. I just can't see how you got 8 hours run time on a carb when you lost spark after putting it on. Sorry I could not help.

 

[rstreeter]

I had a similar problem with my 1966 datsun roadster no spark at the coil, turned out to be a bad voltage resister burning up the coil. I hate electrical problems. Rory.

 

[kide]

Richard:
I'm with you... kind of like Click and Clack on NPR - long distance diagnosis always depends on the info provided......

Oh BTW - Happy Halloween !!!

 

[jmuncie]

Dennis,

I agree with your son. Mounting the blower on the 3-point and running it off the PTO would make it easier to install/remove and make for 1 less engine to maintain. If there's room to get a couple tees in the hydraulic lines between the valve and front remotes, you could plumb a set of rear remotes in parallel to them for the dump cart. The front and rear wouldn't be independent, but as long as you're not trying to use both at the same time, it's not an issue.

Jerry

 

[mhomrighausen]

Josh O. You read my location wrong.... It's COLO, Iowa.

Seventeen miles east of Ames, Iowa (Home of the Iowa State Cyclones.

Just having some idle thoughts lately. Seeing how they run the new three point garden tillers on the new Cub Cadets hydraulically it shouldn't be too hard to adapt the same principle to the older Cub Cadets with a ported hydro and a Cat O three point. Hmmm

... Perhaps Aaron Schmidt could design something to convert belt driven tillers to Cat O hydraulic propelled.

Paul F. That little fella will look cute once finished. Keep us posted on progress.

Dennis F. When you made the blower did you make the clearance between the fan blades and the housing as follows.... "The clearance should be as follows; The space should be measured as being able to clear a dime and pick up a nickel." Or something like that. I remember a mechanic telling me something to that order when they set the silage blowers.

 

[rpalmer]

Assuming everything else is OK with my mag, can these two leads be replaced, or am I going to have to hunt up another mag? Thanks in advance.

 

[wsteffens]

There's gas all over my 108's carburetor. I thought the supply line was just leaking so I replaced it and the clamps and dried it off yesterday, but I just want out and everything is wet. Top, bottom, sides, air filter...seems like its oozing gas out its pores...

Ideas? (dont say rebuild)

 

[jott]

come on, Wayne. Rebuilds arent hard or that expense.

 

[jcalkin]

Are any of the head gaskets better than others on a K321? Mine is on its way out again. 2nd time in 3 years. First one was an el cheapo, the current one is a Kohler. I just retorqued it in August. I'm running a straightpipe out the front with the sideshields removed- so heat shouldn't be the issue. The head never has shown any warpage with feeler gauges and machinists straight edge. Maybe I'll resurface it anyway.

 

[jott]

Speaking of head gaskets, the one on my 147 has oil "coming out of it". Does this mean thatIneed a new gasket or worse problems that i dont want to hear or talk about(Rings)?

Anyone esle get the Fall edition of Cadet Connection? some pretty interesting articles.

 

[rpalmer]

Wayne Steffens,
Gravity is going to make it drip down. Since the top of the carb is wet maybe look and see if your gas tank straps are wet. Sounds like a tank leak.

 

[memorgan]

Wayne, yur needle and seat has dirt in it plus Like Josh says an overhaul easy
Josh, your head gasket is bad, and make sure your not overfillin your oil

 

[rpalmer]

Jeff Calkin,
You say you have your side shields removed so I looked in your profile and see you have a 1450 listed. I'm assuming this is the tractor you are asking about.

You need to run the shields to keep you engine cool. It's part of the QL design. Without them you are running too hot. Don't know about your head gasket though.

 

[rpalmer]

Mick morgan,
Please explain to us how a bad needle and seat get gas on top of the carb.

 

[jbaker]

I also run my QL 1200 without side panals, I am not questioning that they where designed to run cooler with them in place I am just wondering how and what makes them run cooler that way, does any one know exactly?

 

[rpalmer]

jeff l baker,
Air flowing through them to cool the engine.

 

[jbaker]

so the air is being forced from thru the grill and acroos and out the back or bottom? wouldnt the side panals off have the same effect or more, I am not debating just trying to understand better.