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Archive through October 30, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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The side panels are a cocoon or wrapper for the air to be captured and forced past the engine and thus cool it. Without them on you lose all that and it will run hotter.
 
Ok that makes sense, I guess I am just a little hard headed I will have to install my panals
 
About leaking carbs...just today I was chasing a bad electrical connection on my 1250 and noticed that gas had been running down the side of the engine. I ended up taking the carb off and found the bowl wasn't seating well on the bowl gaskets. I rebuilt this carb about 6 months ago and remember finding an extra bowl gasket (3 total). I guess this must have bent the bottom of the bowl in a bit. To fix it I removed the float and needle then put the carb in a vice upside down. I taped off everything plus plugged holes and such then with a file I removed about a 32nd from where the brass bowl bolt screws in to secure the bowl. I know I could have just gotten another bowl but the casting at that point was a little rough so about four strokes with the file and the bowl seats well. A new bowl will fit too just fine in the future. Has anyone else ever had to do this or is that "dumb as a chicken" thing catching up with me again? It stopped the leak as best I can tell. I haven't worked it yet to see if heat will be an issue. I'm guilty of not using the side panels as well. I don't have the long spring and hate to wire things together plus I can't shut the fuel off with the panels in place.
 
Richard Palmer

I used to think like you that the side panels were designed to cool the engine. I have run Quietlines for years here in Arizona and always have my side panels on.

I should have figured this out years ago but now I think the side panels were designed to quiet down the Cub not to cool the engine.

If you look at the air flow it is sucked in from the back side of the engine under the frame by the flywheel and blown through the engine, around the cylinder, over the head, and blown out through the muffler box, over the muffler and out the front of the Cub.

The air flow is all inside the tin panels around the engine and the only air that would get trapped inside the side panels would be from small holes like where the spark plug is, not enough to do any cooling in my way of thinking.

To my way of thinking the main reason the side panels were installed was to keep all the engine noise exiting the front of the tractor that they could.

I still run my side panels all the time.
 
If you think about it the side panels have several functions. Looks, air flow, and less noise to name a few. I would assume they even help keep the fuel tank area a little cooler the way they seal with the fire wall. I think I might just put them back on now.
 
RICHARD C. - As I'm sure You're aware, there were a lot of pending regulations about outdoor power equip. involved in a lot of the design goals for the QL & later tractors, noise reduction was one of them. I forget who's book on CC's it was, Hank Will's or Ken U. that mentioned this and that the actual mower deck was responsible for most of the noise, and to effectively quiet the mower deck made it so it wouldn't mow. I remember the comment saying IH requested help from PURDUE University's Engineering dept. Anyhow, I have to agree that the side panels were more for noise control than improving cooling. I've mowed with My 982 Once without the side panels, first mow this spring, LOTS of leaves to chewed up and were blown around. Seemed like they ALL ended up on the engine. I blew the engine off, dust & leaves were removed and the side panels installed!

Kinda neat that IH incorporated the same cooling technique into the 88-series design. Pull cool air from the top front of the hood down and forward thru the radiator and out the front grill. Forward air flow fans were not new to IH, they were an "Option" for the Letter-series tractors almost from the beginning, maybe even avail. earlier on the F-series. But on the 88-series the air inlet was visible from the cab so if trash collected and restricted cooling air intake the operator could see it & remove it.

MARLIN - The clearance between the tips of the paddles on the blower and housing is "Close" but I'm positive they won't pick up a Nickel. Maybe if the nickel was sitting on a couple Quarters!
 
I've had a leaking bowl too, seems to happen when it sits w/o gas for a while then it seals up after a few days with gas in it.

How do I clean/replace the needle and seat? I haven't been inside a carburetor in 30 years...I dont remember how that one went.
 
Dennis F. That is funny.
lol.gif


I'm off to work on the old faithful Dakota's exhaust system. The stainless teel system is in good shape however the tailpipe/muffler hanger was made from regular steel. That part rusted away so the system broke just at where the muffler and tailpipe connect. I priced MIDAS installing a cheapo muffler. They could save the front and tailpipe. $150-175.00!!! GEEZ... I can buy a really good Walker muffler for around $70.00. Maybe Fancy and I will be able to mow some lawn this afternoon if I can get the truck woes taken care of.
 
I have helped work on a few silage blowers and none of them could pick up a nickle till they got up some speed.
Dennis that would be a cool set up, useing your rear PTO for the blower. What do you figure you'd need about a 3 1/2 foot fan to make it work. Isn't 982 PTO 2000 RPM?
 
DAVE - with the 16" dia impeller in the current blower I never run the engine over about half throttle and the pulley ratio is pretty close to 1:1. When I get into places under trees where the leaves are really heavy the blower still has capacity but the hose from the mower deck to the blower plugs occasionally. If I only take half a mower swath it never plugs. By "Heavy leaves" like under my BIG Maple trees I mean a blanket 6-8 inches deep, the frt of the mower deck pushes them ahead in a big pile, but the suction of the vacuum sucks them under the deck eventually.

If I made a vacuum for the 982 it would be about 24" dia & 8" hoses. I have 6" on the current one and they tend to plug with small sticks, etc. The PTO is already off-set to the left side of the tractor a bit. PTO is 2000 rpm, odd-ball spline but I got a good tip on where I can buy lengths of splined shaft off the shelf. I'd probably still belt drive the impeller so I could play with RPM if needed.
 

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