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Archive through October 26, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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kide

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Aug 27, 2006
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Gerry Ide
Re: Primer ... didn't we just go through this LAST week?? It does not seal - it's porous...

Re: Playbox and beach sand - using it without a proper respirator (not just a dust mask) is dangerous - the sand breaks down rapidly to a very fine dust that goes into your lungs and stays there. Check out the warnings on TP Tools website. My Grandfather (never knew either of my grandfathers) was a stonecutter and died of silicosis, which I understand is like dying from emphysema, which is a bad way to go..

129 and I are headed out to cut more firewood...
 
Okay it's happened before but I'm confused about the primer thing. They sell a primer/sealer or is that stuff okay?
 
I'd recommend making friends with a body/paint guy in your area...they're usually pretty good about helping somebody with advice. Primer/sealer does seal, but it is not intended to be a topcoat.
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KENDELL - The Guy behind the counter at an automotive paint store is a good person to ask too.

There's a couple places here around Madison, WI that ALL they sell is paint to body shops and they have ALL the supplies & equipment too. They're also open Saturday's so D-I-Y'ers like Son & I can get stuff too.
 
I could be wrong, but I thought the purpose of "sealer" primer was to prevent coats of paint UNDER the fresh coat from screwing up the newest coat. I've seen the (not pretty) results of incompatible paints sprayed over each other...I had a 102 that someone painted red right over the yellow...no primer...it lifted both coats of paint right off the sheetmetal. That thing was part bare metal when it left.
 
That's typically putting a lacquer (hot solvent) over an enamel (reducer is typically not much of a solvent)raising the paint. Dennis - I agree about the counter guys, if they've got the time and aren't just "pushing product"... I usually like to know what I'm talking about before I go into our automotive paint supplier. It used to be different here in Lansing with the Olds plant and (going back a little further) the REO truck plant here. You could get pretty some good deals on paint and there was usually some of the guys around who painted in the shops...
 
I was wondering if anyone could help me identify these two pieces i picked up today.
The blade has a id# 361 U-1111
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I got my steering column back from Dad today and he did a great job of turning the bearing surfaces. I installed new bearings and race along with a Nice 605 bearing to finish off the job. The guy who came up with the idea of using the 605 bearing I take my hat off to you.
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This has to be the smoothing operating steering column I've ever put together.

When the leaves finish falling I'll pull the engine and install the steering column, drive shaft and fix the sloop in the hydo linkage.

Thanks everyone Greg
 
Tom that looks like a snow plow for a model 60 the little bathtub rider
 
Matt Stetar
I have been really busy and all my time is getting spent on my 1512D. I installed a new battery and cleaned all the ground wires and have made up a parts list for Friday at the kubota dealer. I have to take my wife to the city so I will get all the parts I need then. I will take the pictures of my 100 in the morning and send them to you. Later Don T
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dont stress yourself..... i dont need them that bad!
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Donald Tanner,
I love that truck that's pulling you newly acquired Cub.
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ok my 100 has a 14hp in it with a 12hp flywheel on it, do you think it would have cooling issuses if i put a loader on it?
 
Hey Matt, Umm I wouldnt just look past it and ignore it, if you know what i mean. I would try to find a 14HP flywheel if you can. just my 0.02
 
Greg Johnson

When I did the original write up for the FAQ on the steering sector rebuild I got the idea for the 605 bearing from Donald Mayes. As far as I know he was the originator of that idea.
 
MATT S., JOSH O. - I have that exact same engine combo in my 72, K321 engine W/K301 flywheel & shrouds. No cooling issues when mowing even on 85 degree days, although I don't pull the engine very hard. Keep the grass screen & cooling fins clean and it won't be a problem.
I would not cut & modify the frame on a 100 to install the big flywheel & shrouds. In fact, a 100 wouldn't be my first choice for a loader tractor anyhow. An early WF like a 109, 129, 149 would be a good loader tractor. The frt axles & frame are stronger, and it's easier to modify the frt spindles & install tapered roller wheel bearings.
 
scott i need all pics except the O and 70 and 122

i hate hydros, i would never put a loader on a hydro there would be way too many controls!

is a 682 with a blown motor a good buy for $100

oh also would a WF axle fit on my 100?
 

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