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Archive through October 22, 2014
- Thread starter wshytle
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Thad B.
A good rule of thumb for any bolts.
3/8" - 35 ft. lb.
7/16" - 65 ft. lb.
1/2" - 85 ft. lb.
A good rule of thumb for any bolts.
3/8" - 35 ft. lb.
7/16" - 65 ft. lb.
1/2" - 85 ft. lb.
snicklas
Well-known member
Don,
I am not too worried about the scratches in my drive, or the Cul-de-sac and lead-in short street. (Yes, I plow the whole court and street if I beat the city out there) I do plow some of my neighbors drives, as we have a couple of older couples, and one that is handicapped that can't do it for themselves. I worry about scratching their driveways. No one has said anything, but I am much more careful when I am off the street, or off my driveway. Have even thought, now that I have the thrower, to make sure all the sidewalks are clear also, since the blade likes to curl the grass along the sides of the walks.
I have looked at the rubber tire "chains" but have no idea how those even work. I would think if just rubber on the slick stuff would work, the tires without chains would work just fine.
Just for a reference, here is the product I am talking about:
I am not too worried about the scratches in my drive, or the Cul-de-sac and lead-in short street. (Yes, I plow the whole court and street if I beat the city out there) I do plow some of my neighbors drives, as we have a couple of older couples, and one that is handicapped that can't do it for themselves. I worry about scratching their driveways. No one has said anything, but I am much more careful when I am off the street, or off my driveway. Have even thought, now that I have the thrower, to make sure all the sidewalks are clear also, since the blade likes to curl the grass along the sides of the walks.
I have looked at the rubber tire "chains" but have no idea how those even work. I would think if just rubber on the slick stuff would work, the tires without chains would work just fine.
Just for a reference, here is the product I am talking about:
SCOTT - The first set of tire chains I bought for my CC was similar to those Terra-Grip rubber chains. Mine had molded plastic cross bars with two tungsten studs like snow tires used until they were outlawed in most states. They would really scratch my brand new concrete driveway. The side chains were nylon straps.
They cost about half as much as real steel tire chains and were maybe half as effective as normal tire chains. I would not buy them again.
They cost about half as much as real steel tire chains and were maybe half as effective as normal tire chains. I would not buy them again.
snicklas
Well-known member
Thanks Denny, that is kind of what I figured. If they worked really well, we would have heard more about them. The first set I ever saw, I was poking around on "the bay" just bored killing time, and in searching Cub Cadet, a listing for them popped up. Looked at them, and dismissed them as more of a placebo than anything. I have experienced being on the snow/ice with a Cub and no chains. One time, one came loose, and fell off. The other, I did not have a set yet and we had a small snowfall. It was useless without chains. It was all I could do to get back to the garage and reinstall the one that fell off. No chains at all, I had to take a pass a few inches wide, and be real light on the hydro, otherwise it would spin out...... I will stick with "normal" chains. I have the experiment with the cable chains that I have, only because I already had them on hand. If they work, great, if not... I will get a set of chains.
SCOTT - What works for pushing snow is 100% dependent on what surface your trying to clean. I have LOTS of concrete here, most of it slopes up-hill towards the road. Without chains it's a struggle for anything without 4WD to make it to the road 100 feet away even in a fraction of an inch of snow. Tires make a BIG difference, 20-20 hind sight told me about late February last winter that I should have put my winter tires on my car about the 1st of December.
I've pushed snow with BIG tractors with no added weight or chains, and on dirt or crushed rock you can do that. Concrete and even worse, BLACKTOP, you can't. But I've also been stuck on concrete with an eighth of an inch of ice with NO chains. And a half inch of snow compresses to make an eighth of an inch of ice.... under your drive tires.
I'm not dreading snow removal as much this winter. I have my 12V electric glove liners this year to keep my hands warm. They worked great last winter the last time or two I cleaned the drive.
I've pushed snow with BIG tractors with no added weight or chains, and on dirt or crushed rock you can do that. Concrete and even worse, BLACKTOP, you can't. But I've also been stuck on concrete with an eighth of an inch of ice with NO chains. And a half inch of snow compresses to make an eighth of an inch of ice.... under your drive tires.
I'm not dreading snow removal as much this winter. I have my 12V electric glove liners this year to keep my hands warm. They worked great last winter the last time or two I cleaned the drive.
snicklas
Well-known member
Denny - Agreed. When I had the chain that fell off. It was on Dad's 149 when I was still living at home. I was on a "crowned" "oil and chip" road about 100 feet from the garage. It popped off the outside of the tire and hung around the axle. I had already plowed the area between where I was and the garage. However, I was on the far side of the crown. It was very difficult to climb the crown and once I did, it wasn't too bad to get the rest of the way to the garage. Once I was on the driveway, it is "road pack" so I was able to just drive in.
When I had NO CHAINS, it was at the house I live in now. I have 100% Concrete here. The sidewalks, streets and driveways are all Concrete. That was problem 1. Problem 2 is my driveway is fairly steep. Is about 40 feet long. I can park my Excursion and another car, nose to tail in the length of the drive. If I stand in the gutter at the bottom of my drive, and look at the garage, I am looking across the surface of the garage floor. I am 6'4", so in that 40 feet of length, it is rising over 6 feet in height. That makes for some fun, with or without chains. I can get up and down on the Cubs with chains, but I have more than once come out of the house to find the Excursion sitting in the cul-de-sac. I got home last year, parked, got out and walked around front to plug the truck in (Its a 6.0 PSD). I reached down an picked up the drop cord, reached for the plug on the front bumper just in time for it to start moving away from my hand. Had to go pull back in the drive, in a different place, where it stayed this time, and finished my routine. I normally "salt" my drive when the sun is out, so this is not an issue..... but last year with all the gloom, it was hard to get "salt" to work some times.
(I already have in mind about the drop cords in the driveway (I have 2 diesels now so there will be 2 cords) now that I have a snowthrower. I have read the stories about how good a snowthrower on a Cub is at being a "cord reel")
When I had NO CHAINS, it was at the house I live in now. I have 100% Concrete here. The sidewalks, streets and driveways are all Concrete. That was problem 1. Problem 2 is my driveway is fairly steep. Is about 40 feet long. I can park my Excursion and another car, nose to tail in the length of the drive. If I stand in the gutter at the bottom of my drive, and look at the garage, I am looking across the surface of the garage floor. I am 6'4", so in that 40 feet of length, it is rising over 6 feet in height. That makes for some fun, with or without chains. I can get up and down on the Cubs with chains, but I have more than once come out of the house to find the Excursion sitting in the cul-de-sac. I got home last year, parked, got out and walked around front to plug the truck in (Its a 6.0 PSD). I reached down an picked up the drop cord, reached for the plug on the front bumper just in time for it to start moving away from my hand. Had to go pull back in the drive, in a different place, where it stayed this time, and finished my routine. I normally "salt" my drive when the sun is out, so this is not an issue..... but last year with all the gloom, it was hard to get "salt" to work some times.
(I already have in mind about the drop cords in the driveway (I have 2 diesels now so there will be 2 cords) now that I have a snowthrower. I have read the stories about how good a snowthrower on a Cub is at being a "cord reel")
SCOTT - I had a steep sloped concrete driveway like yours at the last place we lived. I'll take the quarter mile long crushed rock drive we had at the place before that place any time!
I had the 72 & QA-36 for snow removal at the last place. With chains and SON adding his 120+# of ballast on the hitch plate I could drive up the slope, but not blow snow going up the slope. Had to drive up, turn around and blow snow going downhill. Also had to do the neighbor's drive, plus in front of the whole neighborhood's mailboxes. Only had a few snows the year we lived there but they were enough. The little town tried to remove snow but was really limited on capability due to so little equipment.
We live on a county road now. Last winter we had a couple real windy days and the snow bank across the road creeped out into the road. Buried our mailbox. I called the County highway Superintendent. He was some what short with me, his phone was ringing off the wall, He had the first truck here in 35 minutes, had a grader with a wing here in another 15 minutes, and the end loader showed up 15 minutes after the grader. PROBLEM solved. I could have eventually dug my mailbox out with my #1 snow mover but to move all those cubic yards of snow would have taken me two hours or more. Plus I HATE cars flying by me when I'm in the road with my #1 snow mover, my 6000-6500# tractor is no match for a 3000+ pound car/truck if they hit me.
I had the 72 & QA-36 for snow removal at the last place. With chains and SON adding his 120+# of ballast on the hitch plate I could drive up the slope, but not blow snow going up the slope. Had to drive up, turn around and blow snow going downhill. Also had to do the neighbor's drive, plus in front of the whole neighborhood's mailboxes. Only had a few snows the year we lived there but they were enough. The little town tried to remove snow but was really limited on capability due to so little equipment.
We live on a county road now. Last winter we had a couple real windy days and the snow bank across the road creeped out into the road. Buried our mailbox. I called the County highway Superintendent. He was some what short with me, his phone was ringing off the wall, He had the first truck here in 35 minutes, had a grader with a wing here in another 15 minutes, and the end loader showed up 15 minutes after the grader. PROBLEM solved. I could have eventually dug my mailbox out with my #1 snow mover but to move all those cubic yards of snow would have taken me two hours or more. Plus I HATE cars flying by me when I'm in the road with my #1 snow mover, my 6000-6500# tractor is no match for a 3000+ pound car/truck if they hit me.
jbaker
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,144
- displayname
- jeff l baker
This morning after my chores I had some time before having to leave for work.
So about a month ago I mentioned I had trouble with the 169 not starting after shorting out the battery to the frame
.
I changed the S/G and it still would not start although it cranked strong and the A post on the S/G got so hot after 4 seconds of cranking it would blister your finger.
Today after inspecting the points I attacked the wiring harness with my ohm meter. By disconnecting the wire from its terminal at both ends and ohming one end to frame
1st wire from A post to solonoid. (ok)
2nd wire from soloniod to V/R. (ok)
3rd wire from F post on S/G to V/R (strong short to frame)
disconected the wire from S/G F terminal to V/R and installed a new temp wire.
Presto fired on first turn
So about a month ago I mentioned I had trouble with the 169 not starting after shorting out the battery to the frame
I changed the S/G and it still would not start although it cranked strong and the A post on the S/G got so hot after 4 seconds of cranking it would blister your finger.
Today after inspecting the points I attacked the wiring harness with my ohm meter. By disconnecting the wire from its terminal at both ends and ohming one end to frame
1st wire from A post to solonoid. (ok)
2nd wire from soloniod to V/R. (ok)
3rd wire from F post on S/G to V/R (strong short to frame)
disconected the wire from S/G F terminal to V/R and installed a new temp wire.
Presto fired on first turn
