Archive through October 22, 2014

[wshytle]

Keith-

Nice video! I dedicated a 1650 to my tiller and even after I went through the linkages, trunion repair, etc. I still have some "issues" keeping a steady speed. The tiller is a beast at times when it hits hard patches and will send the tractor forward. I think the best way to go is a gear drive with a creeper as many have said here on the forum.

 

[jstertz]

Keith O--nice video. Those tillers sure do a great job. I find that you have to work the "worn" hydro opposite of what you have to do when plowing hard ground. There you need to apply a little constant pressure to keep moving forward, with the tiller you need to keep a little pressure back again the handle because the tiller wants to force it forward.

Guys--question? Is it common for the breather on an old creeper drive to leak? I'm getting my 100 ready for PD IX and that is the only thing I noticed while looking over things that has me a little worried. What's the easiest way to check the fluid level in it while still installed on the tractor?

 

[kide]

Craig C :
I think I've mentioned this in the past some place... I've got a 5 horse A-M standalone that I used for many years.. When you get bridging (if using the open type grate, not the screen) a 2" piece of 2x4 dropped in works wonder for cleaning the bridging out. Make sure the input flap is in place and stand back as you drop it in....

 

[sblunier]

Josh,

Yes, they puke out oil all of the time. I have taken to running some 85W-140 mixed with 30 wt in mine to keep them from slinging oil....... YMMV....

 

[pbell]

Josh,
Unscrew the breather and pour some oil in the creeper. I believe the book calls for 1/2 pint of oil, but I fill them and let them seek their own level, they will anyway. You usually can't get a 1/2 pint in them before they run over.

 

[digger]

We just had a guy sign up with this!

Personal Quote: If it isn't a Cub Cadet. Then it's just a pop can with a engine.

 

[bjkohnert]

Hello everyone. Was a member a long time ago. With family and work. Things do happen. I'm not an inexperience cub guy. Been around them all 40 yrs of my life. Even worked at International dealership both for trucks and tractors. Currenty own 2- 107, 127, 147 "in parts" and top secret project "167". Feels good to be back. Will be on more offen. Thanks again. Keep Cubbin!

 

[digger]

And here he is! LOL

Nice quote Brandon.

 

[jbaker]

 

[dtanner]

 

[ccarney]

Gerry thanks for the note on the mackissic. I have done several piles of debris after learning more what it will and won't do. When slugs go thru it will make the k301 grunt. I didn't have the discharge flap in and it will eject bits 30-40 feet!

 

[vthomley]

Question for you snow throwing, snowplowing experts. Should I put 4 link chains on my 8.5" turf tires or 2 link chains on my 10.5" turf tires? I'll have fluid in the tires and weights, etc.

My 1250 with Hydro lift will be sporting the QA-36A with wings to bring it to approx 42" wide.

My 1650 with a 10hp motor will be sporting the 42" blade.

Here's a pic with these from a year ago. The 1250 now has hydro Lift and will have lights soon.

 

[ccarney]

Vince my 4link bite okay on 8.5's, 123 with 2 sets on weight on air tires. when it's icy one can tell between links though. That's snow-packed gravel and a blade. Throwers really lighten the rear.

 

[jstertz]

Vincent--from my personal experience, I would highly recommend 2 link chains if you have the choice. They ride much smoother. 4 link chains work fine but they do not ride anywhere as smooth. Tire width would depend on the outside width compared to you cutting width of the front attachment. My dad always recommended a narrower tire for snow use but I'm running 26-12's on my super with two link vbars and a 54" hydro turn Haban and it works great! It has plenty of traction. given the choice you laid out, I'd go with the fatter tires and the two links. We put a set of 8.50's with two links on the Chief (149) for dads snow removal.
Just my two cents...

 

[jlspicer]

Vince,
I agree with Josh. I'm running the same setup as him on my 1772 with the two links and Haban blade. Only difference is I have regular two links, not the vbars. I've got one set of weights as well. No problems whatsoever (knock on wood).

Nice group of cubs BTW.

 

[jpatchett]

Vincent,

Will you be removing snow on an incline or relativly flat surface? If you have any inclines I would not mess with 4 link, unless you have gravel and that would be OK. I have most always used 2 link. We moved one year and I could not find my 2 link 9.50 chains. Picked up what was available locally, 4 link. The day I found my 2 link chains I pulled off the 4 link and put them back in the box, have not used them since. This was on my 149 with 9.50, a 54” blade and 150# of wheel weights.

If I had to make a choice I would put wider tires and 4 links on the tractor with a snow thrower. When the thrower is down and working the weight is mostly on the rear. But, as Joshua pointed out the 10.50 tires will make the rear tire tracks wider. The narrower tires and 2 links on the tractor with a blade. When the blade is at an angle the path width is no longer 42”, so the 8.50 tracks will not be wider. I try to avoid packing the snow, sooner or later it turns to ice.

Jim

 

[jbaker]

ok now my 2cents

snowplow unit would get wide tires with 2 link chains, more traction which you will need when pushing snow. small tire with 4 link when throwing snow not as much traction need when throwing due to the slow speed and the removal of snow. when pushing ypou always have a load and generaly run faster.

 

[snicklas]

All I have ever used is 4 link chains on 23x10.50 - 12 Turf Tires and a 42" Snow Blade. Turf's and chains work really well. I do not run any extra weight on the tractor, however, I am about 375lbs in my winter gear. So I do have extra weight when plowing, because I bring it with me.

This year there is a bit of a change-up with my tractors. The 1450 will get the 4 link chains on the 23x10.50 - 12 Turfs and no extra weight. It will be wearing a 42" Hydro-angle Snow Blade. The 1650 I just got this year has the QA42A Snow Thrower and the equivalent of 4 link CABLE chains on the 23x10.50 - 12 Turfs and no additional weight. I do have a set of OT 55lb each plastic wheel weights, but not sure if I will add them or not. Hope the cable chains work out, if not I will pick up a set of chain tire chains. I do not use the V-Bar chains because everything I am on is Concrete, and the standard chains scratch bad enough....

Here is what the Cable Tire Chains I have look like:

 

[vthomley]

Thanks for the responses and input. After typing my inquiry I remembered I have 2 different sets of 2 link chains for 10.5" tires, plus the 4 links for 8.5". One set is still on the tires in this pic of my 1250 from last winter.

My driveway is asphalt with a little hill as I drive out. This hill is to the north and west, depending on the wind it either blows the snow right off this area or fills it in.

 

[dtanner]

Scott Nicklas

I have a paved drive and at first I was very fussy and would not run chains for fear I would scratch my new drive . well That has passed ; as the drive gets old the chain marks don`t show like they did when the drive was new . I want to install my cab and 45" snow blower this winter that will make lifting it give me more lift and not take away traction . I want to try a set of atv tires because I think they have softer rubber and that will help with traction . well I hope.