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Archive through October 22, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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All these long post make my head hurt!
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Denny, I knew Steve Daleo, who started QMI, 1001 Uniek Dr. He was H.S. classmate of my former wife. He passed away in a plane crash a number of years ago. QMI recently added on to their facility. Top notch Shop. Now I've got the impeller out of my #40 EZ-Vac finally. Need to goto #2 son & heat up 1 impeller blade to straighten back to factory spec. First time in 35 years that I vacuumed up a stone(?) & bent a blade on the impeller.The #40 has been mounted on a 128,1450, 1811,882, & orange ( Sim )
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Thank yall for yall's input regarding my condenser troubles! I'm using OEM parts on my 71 that I'm restoring- it's going to be awesome. But for my 1200, when somethings goes, I need to get it going asap to keep up with my mowing contracts! So its been getting the quick trips to O'Reilys... If my latest condenser burns out, too, then I'll have time to order the right one during the winter. All of these ignition problems I've been having has made me consider Kirk's Pointsaver setup...
 
Clark: Now you're talking business! The Point Saver is definitely the way to go!
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Can't wait until I can do my upgrade.

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Keeping this post short for Charlie's sake.
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While written for farm tractors not garden tractors, this might be an interesting read for some:

Under edit: Just in case anyone was curious, there are just under 60 pages in this document.

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Jeremiah, here's what I was taught way back in the 70's regarding ignition systems. I attended a vocational high school and since we were close to their shop in those days, we would be visited by the training staff of Tasca Ford (aka Ford Motor Co.) so we had access to some of the best in the industry.

Rather than drag it into theory, here's the simple explanation. The "condensor" is used to "bleed" electricity back to ground. A circuit must be established through the coil to saturate the windings so that when the points open, the field collapses and the secondary coil windings step up the discharge voltage to the plug.

In this case (points ignition) the sole purpose of the "condensor" is to allow the cirsuit and not create a short (dead short to ground), instead it stores and slowly bleeds off excess / un-used electricity.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it! :cool:
 
It's this forums fault that I can't remember that the points opening causes the coil to fire. Were it not for the interesting and informative topics I would have been in bed not attempting to discuss (from classes 40+ years ago)how a capacitor works in an ignition circuit. Gerry, Matt you are correct the plug fires when the points open. Jeremiah you are correct this does become an LC (inductance/capacitance) circuit, this in turn extends the time that the spark fires until the points close. I suspect that this is not as important to most of us as is the fact it makes the points last longer.

On a really important note I was trying to figure a way to remove the pulleys from the gearbox on my tiller so I could paint it. Talked to a friend I get nla (used) parts from and he told me that if you remove the top cover you can then remove the snap rings that hold the inner gears on (since they are lubricated they never rust) you can then take the shaft and pulley off the gearbox and press the shaft out. I apologize if this may have been covered before and perhaps I don't know how to word it correctly when I searched for it.

Note to self, read all you want late at night, keep fingers off keyboard.
 
Kraig, those manuals are perfect for people like me, I love reading that stuff. Think you could post a full version of that document in the manuals section if you have time?
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Steve B,

Thanks for the offer! I will probably take you up on your offer. I have the whole 2063 to take the set up from, but I'm not exactly sure what is involved switching the points style KT-1 to the magneto style Mag 20. Like wiring, key switch, pto, etc... But I'm labeling everything as I go so it should come close to a drop in.

Also, what power column did you use? My Super has a really long column. And the donor has the goofy tilt. So my plan is to fab the original upper half with the power lower. (Similar to the column I made for a '64 fairlane race car that used a 65 mustang upper and aftermarket race car lower half.)
 
Charlie - this is one time I really agree with ya. What do you do for a headache?
My new motto going forward will be "short and sweet"
 
Mike: Yeah. My professor always used to talk about how capacitors and inductors were "shock absorbers" in an electrical circuit. I remember when he talked about inductors, he would ask us questions like, "And where does the voltage go?" and when we looked at him like deer in the headlights, he would hop up on his tip-toes and point to the ceiling saying, "to Infinity!" (This was before the movie Toy Story.)

Actually, since we're being correct and everything, we probably ought to call the coil by it's proper electrical name, a "tranformer." The primary side of the coil (an inductor) induces a voltage in the secondary side of the coil (also an inductor) by means of the field generated by the current passing through the wires in the winding. The polarity and the voltage induced in the secondary depends on the direction and number of the windings in the secondary (versus the primary).

The more I think about it, and in combination to what you report from your tutelege in the 70's the "spark" is function of the field collapsing. As you say, the time it takes to charge the capacitor allows the voltage to build up across the electrode. It is important that the capacitor is wired in parallel with the points but in series with the "coil" (actually the primary side of a transformer).

The whole system manages to convert DC current to AC voltage by means of the points opening and closing. Imagine, as the speed of the engine is increased, the frequency of the AC voltage is increased in order to "keep in time" the spark with the needs of the combustion chamber.

It really "awes" me, when I consider the ignition circuit; just like when I went to the museum at Kitty Hawk and looked at the "carburetor" which powered the Wright brothers airplane. The thing wasn't nothing but a square can with a hole in it, for all intents and purposes. I just can't believe the d***ned thing worked!

Now to read Kraig's post.

I'm like Clark, I eat this stuff up. I hope he does post it in the manuals section; or some sub-section for Technical Info You Never Knew You Needed Until Now.
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Larry: Don't worry about it. Look at it this way, everyone got an education because you made a mistake.
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God knows I've made more than a few.

Note to self: I really need to get a job, I'm driving everyone crazy around here (no wait, that's why I'm looking for a job
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Edit 1: Reading Kraig's post, I'm reminded, nothing happens in a transformer with DC current, there has to be AC current; the field only builds when the current/voltage changes. So Larry may not be so far off as we thought. The points have to open AND close, and in proper relation to each other, in order to fire the plug. Again, the action of the electrons and their effect amazes me.

Edit 2; Kraig, I want one of the Heavy Duty Condensers! Seriously, very good and timely post. IH certainly had some fine technical writers1
 
Funny, some of the talk here about fixing up a 128 frame. I just spotted a 128 sitting under a shed the other day and am trying to find/contact the owner. I'm glad Charlie lives too far away to beat me to it!
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Jeremiah,short and sweet here...you corrected your DC to Ac about point/coil firing but...you don't need ac to make a transformer/coil work ! From what I've read here we have a bunch of electronic techs around...anybody like to explain why a 'switching power supply' works and is so efficient. <font size="-2">Hint: faster and smaller</font>
 
Nic,

I built the column using the upper 1/2 of an old steering gear and an old steering wheel for a coupler. I'll try to send some pics.

I converted to the Mag 18 with a relay and left all of the 782 dash wiring as-is.
 
Charlie got the IH Electrical Manual uploaded. Here's the LINK to the page where it can be found.

Thanks Charlie!
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Short and sweet, an LC circuit produces an oscillating current and I'm done. I'm with Charlie all this reading and remembering gives me a headache.

Regardless, an earlier post used copper as backing for welding, can brass also be used?

Tiller refurb, how do you fill the pits in the panels prior to paint? Thick primer, something else? If this post appears twice my first attempt did not show up immediately as it usually does.

With my old timers disease I need to leave heavy duty ciphering to some of the younger whippersnappers.
 
Allen: I think you're mixing apples and oranges. As I understand it, I think a transformed depends on the field changing --AC; I don't think a switching power supply contains a transformer.

But I think we're getting off-topic.
 
Talking about new, or OEM, or aftermarket, or import, etc., this one is like the ole Timex saying - Takes a Lick'n and Keeps on Tick'n
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PAUL - I'd met Steve several times. We used QMI when I was at APV Crepaco in Lake Mills. SON & I would sometimes make late night parts runs to QMI for hot parts we needed the next day so I could take them in to work the next morning. We also tried to get them some work when I was @ G&L in Fond Du Lac, but unfortunately ordering one piece of a thousand different parts wasn't QMI's style. They needed volume, and repeat orders so they could perfect the process.

It was when I was at G&L that Steve had his plane crash. Our VP of Assembly had worked @ QMI for several years. Our whole plant was in mourning over Steve's passing.

I forget the name of the shop that Steve's brother ran, but understand it was excellent too. I'd heard they'd share work back and forth between the two shops, and customers never knew it because the parts from either shop were perfect.

It's great to hear that Steve's wife has been able to have QMI continue to grow and prosper.

LARRY C. - re Using brass as a backing plate for welding. This may not be the official correct answer, but, "YES", I've used brass a couple times. It seems to stick to the weld deposit more than pure copper, but still allows you to shape the deposit. My theory is the other metals alloyed to make brass, the 2-1/2% lead, 35% zinc, and 3/10ths % iron allow the weld metal to adhere. Few taps with a hammer pops it loose. And brass is much easier to find than pure copper.

KRAIG - somewhere in my MASS of IH & tractor information, I have a similar IH booklet to the one you posted but details a lot of interesting things about "Tune-ups". It covers lots of the same info on ignition systems, but also has info on carburetors and some really interesting facts about air cleaners/filters. I think those books were printed in the early 1960's, and IH was switching from oil bath to dry pleated paper air filters. And this book explains why. If I can find it I'll get it to you to include in the manuals section too.
 

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