Archive through October 19, 2012

[kide]

James - Does it pivot?

I'm not sure if it'll work for you, but in getting a 2" hitch out of the receiver where it had been for 14 years, I, among other things, took a can of "canned air" for cleaning PCs and using it upside down, soaked the inner tube (the hitch). The liquid propellant is very cold as it comes out of the can and expands (Boyles law). I would try it, not just a little, but keep soaking it, trying to keep it just on the pin and not on the cylinder body. Note that that end of the cylinder should be able to take some heat, as long as you've extended the cylinder and drained it (take the lines off. Note that you want to be careful driving on that pin-hitting it with a hammer may mushroom the end and you'll never get it out. Charlie may have some more ideas...

Dennis: I never broke the rod but lost about three of the @#$%^!#%* lock buttons before I gave up and filled the sector teeth with brass and made it into a floater lift (there's pictures some place) Never missed being able to lock it in any other position than up...

 

[dfrisk]

GERRY - I think I'm at 4 batteries in almost 33 years with my #72, and replaced the battery that was in the 982 once in 12 yrs. I find disconnecting the ground cable so the batteries don't go dead over winter or long periods of no use makes a huge difference in their service life.

The last BIG truck I drove was a 1978 IH FleetStar, think an 1800 model, or might have been a 1900. It had a 478 CID gas V8 that got around 3 miles per gallon at 60 MPH loaded to 30,000-50,000# gross weight. And ALL that gas ran thru a 1/4", maybe 5/16" metal gas line from the fuel pump to the tiny 2 bbl Holley, same size or just a bit bigger than what CC's use for fuel line. That's 20 gal/hour, or enough to run a 12 HP Kohler for something over thirty HOURS non-stop wide open full load. These little Kohler's really don't use THAT much gas when you figure it out that way.

The neat thing about ALL filters is, they restrict flow, but a larger filter restricts flow LESS even while filtering out more and smaller dirt particles. And as the filters get dirty, yes they restrict flow more, but filter BETTER.

The filter you put on your Cushman sounds similar to what I ran for so many years on my 72, except mine had a molded nylon filter mesh sleeve and yours has a sintered bronze filter. Either type are good filter media. I think the one I have on the 72 now also has a sintered bronze filter media in it, it's a billet red anodized aluminum filter from Summit to match the braided SS fuel lines & AN fittings.

Probably like you, I really don't care to do carb work, I like to not have to rebuild them unless I have to, and every ten-twenty years is often enough. Last time the carb in my Super H was rebuilt was about 1969 and it still starts, idles, & pulls fine. It "Hiccups" every now and then but I think thats from sticking ignition points, last tune-up it got was in 1972, and it's only had about 300-400 hours put on it since then. From what I've read on other forums, the points, condensor, & plugs in it are better than anything new I can buy for it now! So I run it as is.

 

[fcurrier]

Now back to my originally scheduled broadcast:

This is the lift lever button from a 105, and I guess I can see it's weak spot. As far as getting the bottom part out, it's going to take some very careful drilling and an EZ-Out.
How does one of them get broken unless you're trying to remove it and twist it off?

Why aren't there headlights on that 122? So many questions, so little time.

Jeff: Pinkies? Aw, c'mon, now.

Tom: Should I use oil in my BriggsandStratton motor and if so, what kind and how much?

 

[dfrisk]

GERRY - You "Fixed" your lift lever about the same way the PO did my old 129! ;-) He bolted a prop bar on the cast eyelet of the lower cast section of the lift lever, double-nutted so it could swing freely, then ground a small square hole in the right footrest for the end of the prop rod to sit in to hold the mower up, and welded a toe bar to the prop rod so he could let the mower down with the toe of his right shoe by pulling back the lift lever and holding the prop bar up with his toe. The inner rod was stuck way down inside the lift lever. The deck height was adjusted with the big plastic hand wheel and the cam same as stock. It actually worked rather well.

I agree, those little float lock buttons are better than the old wire bail used on the early NF tractors by a little, and depending on how wallowed out the hole they press into is, the wire bail can be much better. I've only ever had to replace the float lock button on the 72 and 129 once each. If something happened to the lift on the 72 again, It might almost get on-board hydraulics, maybe something like a power steering pump driven off the back of the starter/generator. But my commuter car DOES have an electrically run P/S pump, so maybe it would be an elec-over hyd. system.

 

[hydroharry]

James - after all you went thru I think I'd remove the lines and just start paintin' it.

Gerry - hey thanks for posting the pic of the AQS engine from the manual. At least I was right about that engine. And I can see the fuel line runs close to the head and then underneath the throttle/governor arm linkage. I'm still wondering if it was done this way on the 1x8/1x9 series. Now, on those 3 nickels under the right side of your monitor, would any of them be Buffalo type with a sort of hump (upward arc) back?

Dennis - so that's what you call it - Head Pressure. I think that's Jeremiah's problem when he's using the glass bowl and big Kohler filter. Some type of vapor lock happens when he runs out of gas (no head pressure) and when he adds the gas to the tank it can't overcome it until he disconnects the fuel line. Still think it's that big Kohler filter.

Wayne - no ramblin' as far as I'm concerned. One thing needs clarifying tho, at least for the youngsters on here. They might not know what a "50 cent piece" is, and ya just can't tell them it's same as 2 quarters. Probably best if you measure that hole in milimeters and repost. And by the way, if you really mean it's a chip off the skirt of the cylinder it's possible that block ain't done with yet. If you can get some pics of it there are some guys on here that can tell you if it's to far gone or can still be used.

Amy - a broken button is a real pain. I see Dennis has explained everything really quite well, but that's an awful lot to go thru to repair it. If you have access to another complete lift arm assembly with a good button it's sure alot easier to just swap everything out. As much as I prefer fixin stuff, that button is one thing I just prefer swappin.

 

[dfrisk]

HARRY - In a CC fuel system, EVERYTHING vents to atmosphere, the gas tank, the carb float bowl, etc. I've had situations where the fuel filter will not fill with gas until the engine is started, lowering the float, opening the float valve, then letting gas fill the fuel line & filter, and eventually refilling the float bowl. The air inside the fuel line & filter trapped between the main fuel needle & seat and the gas in the tank keeps the gas from filling due to the many bends and bows of the fuel line. The filter media by nature only lets gas & air pass one way as some people have found out by installing them backwards. That float valve has to open to bleed the air out before any gas can enter the filter & carb.

As long as Jeremiah's fuel filter is installed correctly, the arrow pointing the direction of fuel flow from tank to carb, it should fill eventually.

He may have a float sticking, or the main fuel needle sticking in the valve, or any of a dozen other problems. Pretty hard for me to trouble-shoot from 1000 miles away.

I have a sediment bulb fuel valve on my Super H, plus an in-line filter like I ran for decades on my 72, and I have no problems getting gas to flow on it, just like on my 72.

 

[jclazar]

Hey gang, great to be back! I'am in the market for a IH QA42A and was wanting what parts to inspect and look at. Sorry if I posted in the wrong forum. I'll need time to get aquainted with the site. Thanks, John

 

[bjamison]

Quick question:

Steering wheel removal.

I'm armed with a print-out of the FAQ's for removing the steering wheel, been down to the 109, got the bezel off - steering wheel is definately stuck/welded onto the steering shaft, being soaked with PB blaster since about 8 pm last night.

On the way to the other side of the COUNTY to get me some hardware per the FAQ's to attempt to remove the steering wheel.

Reason I'm taking the stuck steering wheel off is that the bushing between the steering wheel shaft and tube has risen up and out of it, giving me a very nice wobble on the steering wheel.

I thought about drilling three holes in the steering wheel about 1/8ish diameter around the perimeter of the steering shaft and using a punch to gently tap the bushing back into place without taking the steering wheel off in the first place.

Question is - other than fixing the bushing between the steering wheel and tube, what other purpose are you folks taking the steering wheel off in the first place?

Does the bushing ever go in the other direction - down into the tube?

 

[jchamberlin]

Harry & Dennis, thank you for the continuing diagnostic on my fuel line issues. I agree with Dennis, I think the bowl will fill if I wait long enough.

Harry: Per your request, I'm posting pictures of my tractor and engine showing the heat shield. I wouldn't be surprised if it isn't correct for the motor, and again, I would never have known had you not commented on it.

The fiberglass will need some touch-up or replacement eventually. I have a better piece from a Quiet Line, but the holes in the dash are different.

I think the Serial Number for the engine is correct for the tractor:

Finally, some shots of the other shield and PTO parts that came with the tractor. Upon closer examination, even though there are some slight differences between them, they both appear to be from IH tractors, although one is yellow and one is white. The one on the left in the pictures seems to be a hair larger in diamter, and again, there are slight differences in the cast pieces as can be seen in the side view.

Now I'm going out and see if I can't get the M18 back together . . .

Edit: Bill, the steering wheel has to be removed in order to remove the column so that it can be rebuilt and the play taken out of it. A rebuild is highly recommended and just about every used Cub Cadet is a candidate for it.

 

[dtanner]

Bill Jamison

The reason I remove the steering wheel on my 149 is to slide the steering box out through the bottom of the tractor without taking the dash all apart.

 

[kide]

Harry??? AQS ?? that's not what I see (It IS a black and white photo, but that's a 1xx service manual, before the Quietlines....

Dennis - I'm actually the "carb guy" for the neighborhood...)

 

[lelder]

I have a question on a Victor Hydraulic valve, I think it is a IH valve not sure what it was used on, I want to be sure I understand the ports especially the out/return and power beyond, I understand there is a fitting that must be installed to use power beyond, I assume that (1) is the Power beyond port and what’s shown below (1) is the power beyond fitting needed, (2) is the out/return port.
My questions, is if port (1) is power beyond and it is used do I need to plug the (2) out port or route to tank.
Thanks for your help.

 

[dfrisk]

BILL J. - re Your steering tube bushing... Is it the plastic bushing? Even if it's a metal bushing, I've put a polished up worm gear hose clamp around the steering tube & top lip of the bushing and tightened it up real tight and it's held the bushing solidly for years.

Dad did something similar to the 70 some time ago, but involves a fist full of 3/4" flat washers between the bushing & steering wheel.

I think there's a FAQ that says a sealed metal frt wheel bearing used in place of the plastic bushing makes CC's steer easier.

But yes, steering wheel removal is a common problem, especially if a tractor sleeps outside. Some sort of puller, or impact device is needed to remove the wheel from the splines. But to remove the steering gearbox for work the steering wheel has to be removed, unless you want to work around the steering console.

JEREMIAH - Your fiberglass cowl is in good shape. The one on my old 129 was missing chunks the size of the palm of my hand on both top corners. I molded in a piece of 1/8" x 1" alum flat stock with a fiberglass boat repair kit. It actually worked really good, almost like new when I was done and painted it.

 

[dfrisk]

GERRY - You know they make electronic fuel injection systems that can be made to work on small engines like Kohlers... But you could probably buy 3-4 running Cub Cadets for what one costs.

Worst carb I was EVER inside of was a Rochester "Dual-Jet", the two small primary barrels of a Quadra-Jet. Was on my '77 301 V8 Firebird. It wasn't NEAR big enough to feed that engine. Then our next car, an '83 2WD S-10 Blazer with a 2.8L V-6 had the "Other version" of the Q-jet, a single tiny primary and the huge secondary from a Q-jet. It would go from about 1200-1500 RPM chugging along on the primary to 3000+ RPM screaming on both barrels with just the slightest increase in pressure on the gas pedal. And MPG's dropped a lot if you couldn't stay on the primary too. Those spread bore carbs were NOT a good thing. All the linkage for controlling the metering rods, throttle butterflys, etc. What a mess! If the V8 would have had the progressive 2-bbl and the V6 the tiny 2-bbl both engines would have run better and got better MPG's.

BOY, Wish I had more hands-on experience with hyd. so I could help LARRY & JAMES.

 

[mgonitzke]

Gerry-

That IS a QL engine, so it must be from the combined 1x8/9, QL service manual. Note the oval hole in the flywheel shroud and the throttle/choke bellcranks.

 

[jsalatino]

oh yeah removing them steering wheels can be alot a fun alright! lol

Bill..When I bought my 100 few years back,the first thing I started to do was start soaking the steering wheel nut with pb, It sat in a barn for 10 years or so he told me,he did change the oil,empty the gas in the tank & carb,etc, He did put it up the right way. I would spray that thing 2-3 times a day for almost a month.spray and tappin on the nut givin it a lil jolt. I ended up makin a bracket outta heavy angle iron bolted together to put on the underside of the wheel,that way the puller I was using had somthing to grab ahold of,i tried without the bracket but it would slip off to easy,I had to put a lil heat on it also,When it finally broke loose I thought I broke the wheel,but I didnt.I poipped it right off,wasnt easy though. Never tried the bolt trick,I've heard using a bearing puller works pretty good,never tried it though. good luck,they eventually break loose!

 

[wshytle]

Jeremiah-

It looks like you're missing the metal hood support. Without it the hood just beats the fiberglass.

Bill J.-

I cut a piece if 1" pipe 9/16" long and make my own bushing to go between the steering wheel and whatever is used at the top of the tube. The length is pretty critical. I personally use a front wheel bearing like Dennis mentioned. I also use a 5/8-18 grade 8 bolt with a regular nut to remove steering wheels. Screw the nut onto the steering shaft leaving about 1/16" to 1/8" space at the bottom. Screw the bolt in until it botoms on the shaft. Use your knee or a friend to put upward pressure on the steering wheel itself and pop the bolt with a pretty good lick (these are southern terms I guess). It usually doesn't take much. When you notice the space gone at the bottom back the nut off a tad and do it again. I'd guess it works 70% or 80% of the time.

Good luck!

 

[mhomrighausen]

Jeff B. About those cliparts. Angel found a series of them a couple of years ago...

Brian W. Nice looking genuine IH hubcaps. work slowly using the right tools and you can remove thsoe dings.

Jeremiah C. Seeing that cub cadet now and knowing how with time and patience you will have it shining likes new again will be worth the wait.

This is that 147 that followed me home last weekend. The gentleman also threw in a Snapper Commercial model string trimmer that cost him between $5-600.00. If he could have found the snowthrower then I'd have needed to leave the tailgate down on the 4x4. (I really need a trailer... the Cub cadets are starting to come in again like autumn leaves falling from trees.

This little fella has almost new 23x105x12 rear tires on it.

Ryan M. stopped by and within fifteen minutes inspite of the terrible condition of the wiring and bad battery, we jumped it from Ol' blue and put some fresh gas and oil in it and it fired up with absolutely no smoke. The deck appears to be a newer style 38" with brand new blades. We tried the hydro and outside of the typical oil soaked transmission the hydro was in great condition. It cost me twice as much as the gas to go get and rescue this little fella. Otherwise he may have ended up being sold for scrap iron.

All told... I wish that it had the electric lift. I should've let Charlie go ahead and fix that one I sent t him a couple of years ago even though he said it was ruined by having water gt into it. The pictures that he sent me proved it was a lost cause. On the bright side there were some parts that he could salvage.

Now I need to find a good rebuilt unit for this little fella. should angel let me keep him then he may just find his way to some future Plow Days.

 

[jchamberlin]

Wayne: I think the tractor does have a metal "stay" to hold the hood and some metal springs to "catch" it so that it won't slam down on the fiberglass. I seem to recall that I adjusted the stop when I first got it, but today, taking pictures, I noticed that the spring on the damaged side is almost worn through from the cross bar on the hood itself. I didn't snap a picture, so you'll have to take my word for it.

By-the-way, for what it's worth, one of the reasons I posed my fuel line question was to discern if a filter could be used in a gravity fed line or if I needed to get rid of it. At this point, I'm glad its there, because it appears to have caught a lot of rust particles that would otherwise be in my carburetor and/or engine. But on the other hand, if I can keep the tank from generating rust, I may consider running the default 1x8/9 tank strainer and shut-off valve.

To sum up what Dennis Frisk posted about "vented to the atmosphere," gasoline, as a liquid, is going to "seek its own level;" so as long as the fuel bowl is below the bottom of the tank, the liquid in the tank will find its way into the bowl --period. The only thing that would keep it from doing so is an obstruction in the line (like the media in a filter).

"Vapor Lock" is something that used to happen to cars equipped with carburetors with in hot weather with engines that were already warmed up. The "fix" as I recall was to hold your foot to the floor and crank the engine. I'm not sure if the problem was in the carburetor or the mechanical fuel pump pulling (instead of pushing) gas from the tank, I suspect it was the carburetor.

Edit: Marlin, I like your 147 and I wish you the best of luck with it.

I'm kind of partial to the Model 147, it certainly looks like a tough tractor.

 

[mhomrighausen]

A couple of more picture of the little fella. He needs a new steering wheel and front spindles and one new tire. (Along with the wire harness and light stuffies.