Archive through February 14, 2008

[mgonitzke]

Paul A.-

Depends on what you're lifting. If the effective length of the boom is still 3 feet, you're right back in no-man's land with the forces on the upper 3-point casting. You can't magically reduce the force you are placing on it by making it attach to the sleeve hitch adapter. The boom that was posted with the engine hanging off of it was on a Category "0" 3-point, which has a much higher load capacity than the IH Cub Cadet 3-point. On the newer Cub Cadet tractors with the Cat "0" the hitch attaches to the tractor in multiple places and ties the entire back section of the tractor together. It's very strong. Not to mention, no brittle cast iron parts in the system either. What I'm trying to say is, I'm not sure I'd do that if it were mine. I might make something like that further on down the road, but I'll be on the 782 or 782D after I get the Cat "0"'s designed/built for them...

 

[wbest]

Part of my collection of IH items. Enjoy.

 

[mgonitzke]

William B.-

Nice! I couldn't resist "fixing" it though

 

[pandrews]

Matt G:
I think your right!
Thanks

 

[speterson]

Of course those prices look pretty high if you compare it to the difference in the price of a candybar.

<font size="-2">
(For those of you old enough to remember what they cost way back when they used to build narrow frame cubs anyway

)</font>

 

[lbuttke]

Got 4 inches of new snow overnight, heres what I came home to this morning at 4 am.

Got the 127 & plow out and pushed some of it around a bit.

Than I decided to get the big boy out and blow it into the yard.

One from inside the cab, wife said she was getting cold standing outside.

 

[rdehli]

Thought that I would post some pics of our 8+ inches today

Now you know why most guys like a cab ... I'll have to get one or move farther south!!!!!!

 

[jlarsen]

Back when i bought my 106 new it was 1200.00 with the mower. traded in a orignal 400.00 trade in still have the 106, wish i had the original back. that had a snowthrower with it to.

 

[rdehli]

All in all the 1450 and qa 36 do a real nice job of moving the snow for me next year will put a smaller pulley on the blower to throw it farther ... Also this week fixed my cold start problems with the 1450 frozen battery and bad starter replaced both with spares that were layin around now fires right up ... who needs spring to get seat time I'm gettin plenty here in northeast Iowa

 

[rdehli]

Jim
we all wish we'd kept a few back !!!!!!!

 

[theaton]

Jim L.

At least you got another cub on that deal(and still have that one). Eight years before I was born my father made the "cub purchase" in 1972. For $1080 he bought an 86 tractor, 38 mower deck, 42 inch front blade, rear wheel weights and tire chains. All are in my posession today, minus the 8hp, that was swapped out for a 12hp.

 

[lbuttke]

Rob D.

No cab = snow blade
I tried out my QA36 on my 127 without a cab, quickly went back to the 3235 with cab.
<font size="+2">BUT</font> there is a way to snowblow without a cab abd advoid the snow shower,

<font size="-2">HANDS FREE SNOWBLOWING</font>

 

[rdehli]

Lonny

most of the time I do blow the right way... But the wind swirls between the house and garage .....So anyway you blow you end up wearing it .......It does beat shoveling though

 

[bmcmeen]

Lonny -

Lemme guess - before you took that picture, you turned to your wife and said "hey, watch this!"

 

[rdehli]

Lonny

is that a beverage holder on the fender ...Who needs a cab when you can move snow and have a hot toddy to keep ya warm
lol

 

[lbuttke]

Rob.
Yes it is a beverage holder, the only problem is my coffee get cold befor I get much chance to drink what does not get shaken out of the cup.


Bryan

The wife was not around at that moment that photo was taken otherwise I would not have been able to take the photo.

 

[hcole]

Paul Andrews, if that three point will lift a rear tiller that weighs in at 200+ pounds
i'm pretty sure it will do what you're asking it to do. 3ft. is probably to long of a bar though,
I would go with around 18". Remember the farther away from the tractor you reach the more weight you are lifting it's kinda like holdin a shovel at arms length by the very end, it's pretty heavy. Now if you are going to try to lift up the end of a log that's say, 2ft in dia you ain't gonna lift it anyway. cast iron is very brittle if you hit it with something like a BFH but otherwise it's pretty stong stuff. Who out ther has EVER broke the top link on a cub three point? Just a short while ago DonT proved how strong they are when he BENT the 1" bar while lifting his rear blade!!

 

[tgallagher]

A cub Snowplow blade $100

A cub Snowblower $300

Watching Lonny's tractor on auto-pilot...

 

[hsimon]

Theodore- the chain for your QA42 that came apart is #40 chain and requires 26 links plus the connector link if I recall right. I had a few extras made up when I had a QA42A but since I've upgraded to a 451 on an 1864 I have no use for the auger drive chains

I replaced my auger drive chain on the the QA42A when I had one twice during snow season, once before snow started and about half way through cause the chain would stretch and I didn't want to be doing emergency repairs.

 

[jdreaves]

After many questions, some head banging, and some expert help, I was able to get the 169 manual lift arm apart, and I was able to get the float lock button off without damage (so it can be reused). Handle removal from the hub (yoke) casting will require fabricating a removal tool. I had to put make two different posts to get this information on the boards, so bear with me. Alternate steps should normally come after step number 8.

129-149-169 manual lift arm disassembly: You must first get the lift arm off the tractor. So apply some type of liquid penetrant (liberally), such as WD-40, Liquid Wrench, or whatever brand you prefer, where the hub (yoke) casting attaches to the rockshaft, and every other joint on the lift arm. Don’t forget to use it on the roll pins, as well. Apply penetrant for several days prior to planned disassembly. The tread plate and screws attaching the right foot rest assembly to footrest mounts must be removed before removal of the lift arm is possible.

It is also necessary to fabricate a handy removal tool. Select a piece of steel pipe slightly larger than the OD of the chrome handle, but small enough to seat on the top of the hub (yoke) casting. Cut a piece of this pipe about 2 to 3 inches long. Buy or cut a piece of flat 3/8” flat stock, about 2 inches wide by 10 or 12 inches long. Stand the pipe on end and stand the piece of stock against it, with the 3/8” thickness on bottom and top, and the 2 inch width against the length of the pipe from top to bottom. The length of 10” to 12” long the stock will project out at a 90 degree angle from the pipe. This is the proper alignment. Weld the stock to the piece of pipe, with weld seams on either side of the stock from top to bottom, in line with the pipe so that it looks like a small magnifying glass ring on the end of a very long handle. This handle serves a dual purpose; to hold the tool, as well as a striking surface

Alternate steps to remove rod assembly and top button:

• Lock the lift arm assembly in a vice, using 1 by or 2 by wooden material between vice and chrome handle to keep from scratching chrome. Ensure it is tight.
• Using a cutting torch, cut the lift rod shaft inside the cavity on the back side of the hub (yoke).
• The rod assembly, spring, spring retainer, and what’s left of the top button will slide out the top of the handle.
• Heat the top button, but not red hot, and unscrew it from the lift rod. It may take several attempts, but it will come off.
• The lift rod can be clamped, and welded back together where it was cut. A little file work and some emery cloth will make it look like new.