Archive through February 14, 2008

[jdreaves]

Continued instructions for disassembly of 129-169 manual lift arm assembly.

1. Using appropriate size roll pin punch, knock out the 5/16” x 2 1/4“ roll pin from the bottom of the hub (yoke) and arm. It is stubborn.
2. Pull or pry the right foot rest out and away from the frame (it only needs to move an inch or so), if is it still on the tractor, and wedge it on the bottom by using a small piece of wood between the end of footrest mount and the outside lip of the footrest.
3. Using a flat nail puller, pry the arm assembly off the rockshaft.
4. Place the lift handle assembly tightly in a vice with 1” x 4” or 2” x 4”soft wood blocks (to protect the finish from scratches) on either side of the chrome handle.
5. Remove the rubber handle grip. It can be made more pliable by warming it with a hair dryer. Don’t use a heat gun or torch. Don’t overdo it and melt it! Insert a blunt slotted screwdriver between the grip and the chrome handle. Use the screwdriver to manipulate the rubber grip over the float lock button. This may take considerable twisting of the grip, occasional re-warming with the hair dryer, and stretching with the screw driver, but it is possible to do it without damaging the rubber grip.

I will continue the dissassembly instructions in the next posting.

 

[jdreaves]

6. Remove the float locking button. This can be done by using a standard blade (flat) screwdriver with a rather fine, but not cutting sharp blade. Hold the blade below the bottom exposed rim of the float lock button housing and tap the handle end of the screwdriver with a ball pein hammer while prying up on it. Do this all the way around the circumference of the button assembly. It may take several minutes, but if you are careful, it can be removed without damage. It can be reused later.
7. Use a pair of locking pliers and unscrew the release rod pin (top button) from the arm. Be careful; do not force it, as it can break. If it does not unscrew readily, heat it with a propane or welding torch but do not get it red hot. It will lose whatever temper it has and twist in two. Try to unscrew it again. If it will not unscrew without undue force, it will require soaking. Get a small coffee can or similar vessel and place the handle upside down with the top of the handle in the can. This may require propping or suspending the arm assembly. Fill the can with penetrant until it is about 4 inches deep. The penetrant must seep into the bottom of the lift button where it screws onto the top of the lift rod. With the lift handle upside down, he penetrant must cover the float lock button hole by at least 2 inches, which is were the lift pin (button) screws onto the rod. There is no other satisfactory way of getting penetrant to the bottom of the lift button. Be patient, it may take several days. After a minimum of 24 hours, try removing the release top button again. If it still won’t budge, or you break it off, it will require some alternate steps, which I had to take. The alternate steps could also be used to prevent snapping the top button off in the first place. It is your call.
8. Install the removal tool by sliding it over the chrome handle and down to the hub (yoke). Secure the handle and hub (yoke) assembly in a vice. Ensure it is tight and that there is plenty of swinging room between the vice and the removal tool. Don’t forget the wooden blocks to prevent scratching the chrome plating. Remove the chrome handle from the hub (yoke) as follows.
9. Using appropriate size roll pin punch, drive 1/4” x 1 1/4” roll pin from top of hub (yoke) and arm. It is stubborn.
10. Heat the hub (yoke) casting around the handle until it is red, with a welding torch. Select a 32 oz or larger ball pein, or single handed sledge hammer. As you hold the removal tool against the hub casting, hammer the removal tool against the yoke casting by striking it on the narrow edge of the flat stock as close as you can to the pipe. Do not miss and hit the chrome. It may be necessary to do this several times, but if patient, the handle assembly will come off and the chrome will not be damaged. Any minor denting of the casting can be remedied with a hammer and file.

Everything now can be reclaimed, cleaned, painted, polished and assembled. If roll pins are rusted or damaged, replace them with new roll pins. Also be sure to clean out the inside of the hub (yoke) where the handle is inserted. Use a Dremel tool or wooden dowel with sandpaper and a drill. Don’t remove material, just get the rust out and ensure the handle can be reinserted without having to press it in. The float locking button can be reinstalled using a small piece of pipe, or a deep welled socked, or seal installer. Just tap it in after the handle is assembled and after the rubber grip is in place. Its thin housing is very easy to break. Don’t forget to use white lube on the threads of the top button, the chrome handle where it is inserted into the yoke, and the roll pins, and the rockshaft where the hub fits over it, so things will be easy to remove in the future. Good luck.

 

[wbest]

Thanks Matt, I haven't gotten that far with posting pictures yet. Appreciate your help.

William

 

[theaton]

John-David

Is your typing finger ok?

 

[jdreaves]

Sorry for so much writing in my disassembly instructions fellow Cub Cadet Owners, but I used to write overhaul instructions for a US Army tank overhaul Depot. I was taught that someone with only a minor knowledge of the component, should be able to read the instructions and be able to follow them without difficulty. I wish I chould have sent photos or drawings.

Thanks for your tolerance,

John-David Reaves, Bynum, AL

 

[kweaver]

Try writing that on the bathroom walls with a Crayon !

If that's not one for the FAQ then we need to throw the FAQ away ..............

 

[kweaver]

John D - Might I add that if you have a pipe vise or pipe jaws on a bench vice you can wrap the handle in leather. Don't use inner tubes as it'll let the jaws cut through.

As for a block of wood, I use to bore a hole the same or slightly smaller than the piece being clamped then cut it in half across the hole to give two semi-circled block halves to clamp with in a vice or C-clamps.

 

[kweaver]

John's procedure so you can download it and keep it on your machine for future use

<center><table border=1><tr><td>

Lift Handle Lock Button Removal.txt (7.6 k)</td></tr></table></center>

 

[digger]

John R.
Well done man, I didn't get a chance to read it all yet. I was in a rush to get it added to the FAQ page before some KENTUCKY goof posted that it should be!

CLICK HERE

 

[jdreaves]

Thanks for the advice Ken. A welder friend of mine and I did this in the yard beside his workshop. He had the small 2" x 4" blocks handy from other jobs, so it was just convenient. If I had to do this again, I'd take your advice to the "T". I hope someone will put this together with some drawings or photos and put it on the FAQ, since it has been asked before and there are no instructions for disassembly in the 169 manuals. I haven't tried installing the float lock button yet, but the welder/fabricator friend of mine assures me it will work. Have you or anyone else ever installed a float lock button? How did you do it without damaging the button assy?

Thanks,

John-David Reaves, Bynum, AL