Archive through October 14, 2012

[jchamberlin]

Jeff: No Levers (means no Tampering, per Charlie).

I think a two-piece bezel could be fabricated; the outer ring slipping over the back of the housing, and the inner ring securing a glass lens to replace the original, dingy plastic one. The bezel does need to be secure enough to compress the rubber seal at the terminals just a bit.

Gerry: (Answering the question you posted on the Machine Shop thread) I posted about the Hour Meter in the Machine Shop because I wanted to be able to reference it without searching the vault (see my first post in the Machine Shop), and since it wasn't a Sandbox topic, and it is "machinery" I put it in the Machine Shop thread.

<font size="-2">(I can't ever seem to do anything right around here.</font>

)

 

[jbaker]

Jeremiah I thought it was good idea for referrencing. I guess I will do as Frank did with a battery to advance to 0 hours if i ever need to..

thanks for your efforts Jeremiah

 

[mfrade]

Gerry Ide, some of us had been attempting to lure Kentucky Ken back for a chat.. That was my submission.. Ken called'em Ferds. I actually figured Hydro Harry would be yellin' at me for stripin the motor from the 169 that I got from him and his son.

 

[jchamberlin]

Jeff: Just because it doesn't have levers doesn't mean it can't be reset. It is the balance wheel + "tick toggle" that actually sets the rate of un-winding, so if the "toggle" especially is taken "out-of-gear" I think the hands could be advanced (or reversed) fairly easily. A clock maker would likely just dis-assemble the thing and put it back at zero to "refurbish" it as opposed to "tampering" with it.

Just a thought.

 

[mriney]

Hello everyone.....I am rebuilding a 1969 model 105. I am hoping someone might be able to help. I got this tractor for free and had been sitting for I don't know how long. The guy that gave it too me said when he parked it, the only thing wrong with it was the mower deck quit. He did drain the engine of gas and oil when he parked it. I'm having an issue with getting it started. It cranks and cranks but will not start. I have replaced the solenoid, battery, positive battery cable, ignition coil, condensor, points, new starter pulley and belt. The fuel bowl is full of fuel and it has oil in it now. When you hand crank the engine it has good compression in it. I checked the voltage at the switch, solenoid, coil, and points and they test fine. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what could be wrong or what else I should check? Thank You for your help.

 

[jbaker]

Mark you did not mention if you timed it or not?

And most of all welcome to the best forum, You have a 10 hp narrow frame cub cadet, and we have many people that know more on that model than me, and they will chime in soon.

got ant pictures?


this is courtousy of fellow member Matt G websight

http://mgonitzke.net16.net/tools/static_timing.pdf

 

[prtombaugh]

Steve: On the subject of IH built plows. The venerable #8 or Little Genius trailing plow was available in 10, 12, 14, 16 and 18 inch bottoms. There was a 3-10's displayed at the Red Power Roundup in Du Qoin this past summer. A 2-10's Little Genius could probably be pulled by some higher hp and weighted Cub Cadets in the right kind of soil.

 

[fcurrier]

Welcome, Mark!

It needs a transfusion. It's blood flow (gas vapor) from the heart (carb) isn't reaching its internals (combustion chamber). We can save it with a carburetor cleaning.

 

[jchamberlin]

Mark: Wow, you've spent some money on your 10 HP hydrostatic! It seems to me that you've pretty much eliminated the ignition primary circuit as the culprit! And if it is cranking the start circuit is good. You report that it has compression, so there isn't much more to the old Fuel+Fire+Compression = Start & Run.

A couple of thinks I would check:

1. Check to be sure that you've got the condensor on the NEGATIVE side of the coil with the key connected to the POSITIVE side.

2. Check to see if you have spark at the plug and just for the heck of it, replace the plug.

3. Try to start it while spraying Starter Fluid or Carb Cleaner into the throat of the carburetor.

What I would expect that if you don't find a problem with the "Fire" end of the equation, the engine will start on the "juice." (You don't have to use much starter fluid to perform the test.)

If it starts and runs briefly on the starter fluid, then you have a problem with the carburetor; a stuck float/needle valve and/or totally gummed up passages inside. You need to soak the carburetor and blow it out well before reassembling it and adjusting the float. I would put a new float in it as well.

If the engine does not start on the starter fluid (or if you've already tried all of the above), then the problem is most likely the ignition timing. There is a FAQ for performing a static timing on the engine so you can get it started, and a lot of folks report that setting the point gap per the information gained from the exercise of setting the timing is more reliable than an arbitrary 0.020" setting. Matt Gonitzke has a web site with instructions for setting the timing as well as rebuilding the carburetor.

Good luck, it sounds like you're nearly there.

Edit: Everything that Frank and Jeff wrote (faster than I did).

 

[mriney]

I have not done anything with timing yet. That's one thing i m not sure how to do. I'll post photos once its done. I'm turning it into a garden pulling tractor.

Mark

 

[mriney]

I did replace the spark plug early in the process, but have a couple extra, going to replace it again. Thanks for the link on the timing. Going to check that too

 

[sshaff]

Paul: Just last night I was reading about the Little Genius plows...probably hard-to-find equipment these days! The Sept 25 pics of Steve B's recent impressive plow project got me wondering whether any IH plow models could have actually been used with CCs. Maybe I'll get the plow bug if I make it to his plow day as a first time spectator on Oct. 27...and then get inspired to equip my 100 with a sleeve hitch and a 10" Brinly

 

[kide]

Jeremiah:
Don't mean to offend you, but what you're saying is that you decided to ignore the category conventions so that you could place something where you could find it.. If we all did that, it'd be pointless to have any categories at all.... If you read the the Machine Shop description, it's pretty clear it's for the tools that we use to work on our Cubs, not the "machines" themselves...

Mike Frade.....Unh huh, got the reason for the JB Weld - don't think that's gonna get Kentuck back now, but the question was - is the crank the same on a (OT) Ford K341 as a 169 K341?...

As far as resetting the hands on the hour meters - looks to me like the round base of the hands which slips onto the shaft is split. If this is like those inexpensive battery clocks, can you just move the hand around on the shaft to reset?

 

[jchamberlin]

Gerry: Well then I violated the "Rules of the Forum."

Fact is, we don't have enough categories.

When I posted about how I fixed my tractor's axle in the Restoration section someone commented that I should have posted in the Machine Shop.

If I have something to post that is not intended to be ephemeral, but is to be referenced in the future, I'll be looking for a place to post it. It is not "Off Topic" and so it doesn't belong in the Sandbox, in my opinion, and it isn't really intended to be a FAQ, where do I put it?

Believe me, I'm going to post somewhere, and not just so it can go into the Vault. The Forum and its users will be the ones losing out, because I'll just post in a Technical Library elsewhere on the Web.

By the way, thank you for posting your contributions on how to fix one of these old movements; and you're welcome for my taking the time to post it here first.

 

[kide]

Jeremiah:
Constructive searches.. I searched for "Hour Meter" using "and" and limited it to the main forum... I got four hits, which aren't too many to weed through. Again, I'm not trying to be mean and I know I'm not an Admin, but we've always tried to work together in the Forum to keep things from wandering too far (and I can be just as guilty of that as the next member).

Another thought is to put a keyword (even just a unique string of characters) in your post that you want to retrieve and then search on that. On information that is important and unique, Charlie always welcomes writeups that can be put in the FAQs - and I'd note that your information on the hour meter, if you develop the complete how-to, would seem to be a candidate for a FAQ writeup..

 

[hydroharry]

Frank - hey thanks for the clarification on Canada. Now if I could just get the patent numbers for Australia I'd be all set. Com'on guys, I know someone out there with a late model Quiet Line can read the patent number for Australia. Let me know or send/post a pic of your patent decal.
Thanks,

 

[dtanner]

Anthony Piscopio
There have been a few mower decks that work with a loader posted on this site, But I bet mowing with a loader bucket must be a pain when cutting around shrubs and other plants.Would be ok I guess if you have a wide open area to mow.The loader will need a lot of extra weight to work good and with that extra weight you will loose power just moving around and that will cause problems mowing where you need a constant blade speed.I think you need two Cubs , one for the loader and one to cut grass .

 

[fcurrier]

Harry: Where's that decal located? I'm not seeing it in any decal kits.

 

[kfreeman]

Harry,

I looked at the decal on my 1979 1250. It has only US patent numbers. But I think it has a rev date of '73.

The decal is on the right side of the frame, between the lift adjustment cam/knob and the rear fender.

 

[dfrisk]

GERRY - My Gear Wrenches are the old straight beam version, ALL of them, you flip the wrench over to reverse, no tiny reversing lever to get in the way.

Last Craftsman ratchet I had to exchange was due to me tightening the seat onto my seat base on the Super H. The spring on IH letter series tractor seats is a BIG conical progressive rate spring, and reaching in thru the spring with my 3/8" ratchet popped that little plastic reversing lever right off. Since WHEN did Crapsman start making those levers from plastic?