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Archive through October 05, 2009
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
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kide
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- Gerry Ide
Ed:
Most of the L&G mechanics I've talked to said that the Kohler valve seats were hard enough and that other things in the engine wore out before the valves recessed .... If you're worried, put a little top end oil in the gas (such as Marvel Mystery Oil aka "MMO")
Most of the L&G mechanics I've talked to said that the Kohler valve seats were hard enough and that other things in the engine wore out before the valves recessed .... If you're worried, put a little top end oil in the gas (such as Marvel Mystery Oil aka "MMO")
Melody, not sure what the * is for, but I do believe all the 1x6/7 series and those after (at least until MTD bought the Cub Cadet line), had the asterisk. I know I've seen them before but never paid any attention to it.
Myron, Paul B., any input on the asterisk?
Myron, Paul B., any input on the asterisk?
Melody, I see you list having a 107 as well. Have you checked to see if it has the asterisk after the SN?
ED T. , Kendell - Like most things IHC You almost have to pull the head off a Kohler engine to see exactly what the engine has for valves & seats. ALL of the small block K161/K181 engines I've seen don't have hard seats, which makes Me think they also have soft valves from the factory.
My K241 (10 hp) out in the shop doesn't have hard seat inserts, not sure what the engine had for valves originally but I did put a hard exh. valve in it when I rebuilt it in '85.
I think the K301 I rebuilt had an exh. valve insert but no intake insert, likewise it got a hard valve when I rebuilt it.
My K321 has both intake & exh seat inserts and also got a hard (stellite) ext. valve. It's a later K321, oddly the intake & exh. valve are both the same size.
Never had a K341 apart but assume they're the same as a K321, hard seats & hard valves.
I'd say what I run for gasoline in my Cubbies but I'd rather discuss what kind of oil You should run in the transmissions or engines.
Far as any lead additive, I tried one once, was a pain to get the correct amount into the gas, seems like a pint treated 100 gallons, so 6-8 drops was enough for a 5 gal can?
I'm not a big fan of MMO, about 95% of the time there's a mechanical or tuning reason why an engine responds to adding it to the gas. I don't even put Stabil in my gas over the winter. I bought a bottle last fall that I never used....I might use it this winter.
Like the old IH FARMALL Operator's manuals always said, "Buy clean fuel, Keep it clean."
My K241 (10 hp) out in the shop doesn't have hard seat inserts, not sure what the engine had for valves originally but I did put a hard exh. valve in it when I rebuilt it in '85.
I think the K301 I rebuilt had an exh. valve insert but no intake insert, likewise it got a hard valve when I rebuilt it.
My K321 has both intake & exh seat inserts and also got a hard (stellite) ext. valve. It's a later K321, oddly the intake & exh. valve are both the same size.
Never had a K341 apart but assume they're the same as a K321, hard seats & hard valves.
I'd say what I run for gasoline in my Cubbies but I'd rather discuss what kind of oil You should run in the transmissions or engines.
Far as any lead additive, I tried one once, was a pain to get the correct amount into the gas, seems like a pint treated 100 gallons, so 6-8 drops was enough for a 5 gal can?
I'm not a big fan of MMO, about 95% of the time there's a mechanical or tuning reason why an engine responds to adding it to the gas. I don't even put Stabil in my gas over the winter. I bought a bottle last fall that I never used....I might use it this winter.
Like the old IH FARMALL Operator's manuals always said, "Buy clean fuel, Keep it clean."
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Dennis:
Even though the old man installed tons of the old Marvel Oilers on Y block Fords, my use of MMO is pretty limited (my Plews oiler has a 50-50 mix of that, the rest just motor oil - with a dash of SLick 50 for good luck..). At the same time, if you need a little cushion on the exhaust valve, it's better IMHO than the Insted-o-Led stuff - you get <u>some </u> perceived benefit, as a lubricant...Actually, if you run it through the gas, I guess the intake valave stem benefits, not sure about the exhaust valve, as the MMO is burned up by the time it's going thataway... I have no use for Stabil, it goes bad, also - I either run 'em out of gas or start 'em once in a while. In the end, I guess if you're going to run your Cub 8-10 hours a day, day-in, day-out, you might worry about valve recession, if the seats are soft...
Even though the old man installed tons of the old Marvel Oilers on Y block Fords, my use of MMO is pretty limited (my Plews oiler has a 50-50 mix of that, the rest just motor oil - with a dash of SLick 50 for good luck..). At the same time, if you need a little cushion on the exhaust valve, it's better IMHO than the Insted-o-Led stuff - you get <u>some </u> perceived benefit, as a lubricant...Actually, if you run it through the gas, I guess the intake valave stem benefits, not sure about the exhaust valve, as the MMO is burned up by the time it's going thataway... I have no use for Stabil, it goes bad, also - I either run 'em out of gas or start 'em once in a while. In the end, I guess if you're going to run your Cub 8-10 hours a day, day-in, day-out, you might worry about valve recession, if the seats are soft...
Thanks for the all the info just that after the older gentleman mention the lead gas all I can remember was my dad driving all around town looking for the cheapest gas he can come across at 30 cents a gallon. Then unleaded gas came out So at the pumps you had to decide leaded or unleaded every time he pulled up to the pumps the pump attendant would ask leaded or unleaded. His respond was leaded, leaded. Then he responds was, some one is going to make a mistake and it going to cost then an engine.
