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Archive through October 14, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Frank, no I do not live here, I do have the forum website open all day long at work so I refresh the page every few minutes. Being a co-founder (of a company not this forum) and one of the major share holders does have it's privileges.
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Jerry B.,
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I could use a $1,000 bill or two, and not as in addressed to "accounts payable" more like one that has "In God We Trust" on it.

Don D., long time no post!
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What you been up too? Thanks for the nice comment on my Original. IIRC you have that nice 100 with the flames on the hood, why would you need to redo it? Isn't this your 100?

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DUSTIN - Two things could cause the steering wheel/shaft to raise up out of the steering tube.
First is the preload on the thrust bearings is loose, the BIG potmetal nut on the bottom of the gearbox needs to be tightened just a little. There should be a cotter key keeping this nut from turning You'll have to remove first, a large screwdriver fits in the slots to turn this nut further into the housing, it goes counter-clockwise. This is probably the problem if the wheel/shaft only raise up a little, less than 3/16 or 1/4 inch. The second problem is more serious, the stamped steel race the thrust bearings run on pushes up thru the diecast housing where the steel tube presses into the diecast housing and this allows the wheel/shaft to raise up further. The gearbox is only held in with two 3/8" capscrews, pull the steering wheel, disconnect the steering tierod from the gearbox, raise the front end of the tractor and securely support the frt of the tractor on jack stands and remove the whole housing & tube/shaft for disassembly & rebuild. If the whole tube, shaft, & steering wheel raise up then I would guess You have the second problem, the tube has come loose from it's press fit in the diecast housing, the thrust bearings have worked their way thru the top of the casting. There's a "FIX" for that, I did it to My 72's original box and My old 129. You need a short piece, maybe 1/2"-3/4" long of 1-1/2" OD steel tubing, NOT PIPE, with 1/4" to 3/8" thk wall. Ends need to be really "Square", grind a chamfer on the ID on one end, Then assemble the gearbox without grease, and drop the steel sleeve down inside the steering tube over the steering wheel shaft, tap the sleeve securely into place inside the steering tube against the top thrust bearing with a small long rod or wooden dowel. Drill & tap a couple holes thru the diecast housing, thru the steel steering column tube into the steel sleeve, I used either #8-32 or #10-24 machine screws, only about 3/8"-1/2" long and threaded them into these holes and locked the whole assembly together. Take everything apart and clean out the steel chips from the drilling/tapping, grease everything up real good and reassemble.
I replaced the whole steering gearbox a year ago on My 72 with a brand new one I bought probably FIVE years ago on sale at My local Case/IH/Cub Cadet dealer for over $200. I'm not even sure complete gearboxes are even still available. But they're easily worth brand new what a decent running whole tractor is worth.
 
Charlie, I like that tractor, except for that tiny steering wheel, that'd have to go.
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I've been trying to find wire clips for the headlight and taillight wiring but I have not been able to find what I'm looking for so I decided to make my own by modifying some that I found that were close. I bought a pack of 50 clips from McMaster-Carr. I then used a nibbling tool to remove the upper section that has the hole in it and I made the mounting hole slightly larger so they fit the 5/16" bolts. I then filed the rough edge left by the nibbler. I also reshape the bend to be more flat to hold the wire better then I open it back up in order to slide on some 1/2" dia. heat shrink tube. After I shrink the heat shrink tubing while it is still hot I use a pair of smooth tipped needle nose pliers to seal the heat shrink at the end then trim it off. After it has cooled I wrap it in a leather glove to protect the heat shrink and use a pliers to close the crimp down.

Here's what I was looking for, these are on Dan Hoefler's Original. There is also one used on each headlight bracket, they mount to the top bolt, you can see one in the lower right corner of the top photo. Another one is used at the top grill screen mount, and another clip is used for the points wire on the oil pan bolt on the left front side of the engine for a total of 6 clips.

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Here's the in process photos of the clips I modified.

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Charlie, nope I saw those, but I need 6 of this style for the Original, I'd have to buy several of those kits to get all that I need, plus I already have the twisted style. BTW, The first place I looked was CCS.
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I have some other uses for the clips I bought so there won't be too many left over, I used one to hold the throttle and choke cable, yeah it's not a "stock" clamp location but I like it and consider it an improvement.
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KRAIG - Plasti-Dip is Your Friend! May take two coats.
Charlie - That steering gearbox was the single most expensive part I have ever bought for a CC. My old one was just getting too worn out to rebuild anymore. Even the thru-hole for the pitman arm pivot bolt was worn oblong. I couldn't see steering a CC with two pieces of rope like a soapbox derby car.
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Denny, I've used Plasti-Dip before and don't care for it for this application. I will, however be using it for the grip on my 125 PTO lever.

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Jerry: I may be a day late, but my 149 did the same thing on pto dis-engaging found out my roll pin on pto handle had started to shear because turn buckle came loose and hit on side of tractor.
 
I just came back in and saw that handle and realized that I had bought a whole mess of these handle covers for hydraulic lift handles 6 months ago and they were to big, but I just went out to the 102 and tried one on the PTO engaging lever and they fit perfect!
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Charlie, that's awesome!
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Way better than the Plasti-Dip stuff. Glad I've not bought any of it yet.... Can you send one of those my way? I'll put it on the repainted handle and take some photos for you.
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That's my 100. It still looks the same. I gave it the "10 minute flame job" back when I was bringing the tractor back to life. I didn't want to purchase the decals until I had the time/shop to strip it completely and re-paint, but also didn't want a naked white hood.

Funny, my wife like the flames. I've often wondered if I will re-do the flames when the tractor gets its final refurb. Maybe flames AND the correct decals somehow. She wants them to remain.

I don't post much, but I'm here almost every day. No other cubbers in my area of the desert, so this site is how I reassure myself than I'm only slightly crazy.
 

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