• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through October 12, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I'm interested in putting a Danco loader on my 126. I had some questions, can you still use a mower deck, what modifications would I have to make to the tractor, what model loader to look for. Does anyone have info to share on this or if its worth it or not.
Anthony
 
STEVE - Problem with the IH-built plows is they were built to be used with larger tractors. They didn't make any 10" bottoms, smallest was 12" and they're rare, most were 14", and later 16" and larger were common. Too big for a CC. Although I've seen a CC 169 pulling an IH steel wheeled 16" one bottom plow and doing a good job with it.

The 10" Brinly is the most common plow, but there's some 12" versions around, and a few 8" too. I have an Ohio Steel Fabricators plow that Charlie mentions, and I think it's a stronger, heavier built plow than the Brinly, but some of the things on it are cheaper than the Brinly, namely the rolling coulter. The coulter spins on a carriage bolt with a greasable steel sleeve for the hub of the coulter, no bearing, but it works, also the depth control of the coulter is just another steel sleeve with a set screw, and the coulter is not adjustable side-to-side horizontally. Plus like all these garden tractor plows, the coulter is located too close to the plow bottom and restricts trash flow.

Some of the early Sears garden tractors had an odd-ball 3-pt hitch, much smaller than a Cat 0, and the plows they sold had a 6" bottom. Rule of thumb is a plow bottom plows best, pulls easier running at one-half it's width deep. To pull them deeper the draft or resistance to pull increases a lot. So a 6" wide plow runs best 3" deep, an 8" plow runs @ 4", a 10 inch works best around 5", 12" runs 6" deep, etc.

One of the last plows IH designed and sold was their #735 variable width plow with automatic spring trip or toggle-trip plow beams. The plow frame could be adjusted to take from 14" to 22 inch wide cuts per bollom while plowing. You could plow in rock or root infested ground and if or when a bottom, or two, or three tripped it would automatically reset and return to plowing without any stopping, backing up, or any actions needed from the operator. I rode in the cab of a 5288 at a Wisconsin IHCC plow day for a bit that was pulling a 6-bottom 735 plow and saw it trip three bottoms on something in the ground. The guy running the tractor didn't even know it had happened. That plow had enough trash clearance you could plow down full-size small square hay bales! The IH 700-series plows are still considered the best of the best plows ever made almost 30 yrs AFTER IH became C/IH.
 
Dennis: Thanks for your insights...you confirmed what I suspected about IH plows, and I assume the same for JD. I want to attend a plow day just to see what's out there...sounds like they're pretty much all Brinly.
 
"sounds like they're pretty much all Brinly."

I would say that's really true, maybe as much as 90% Brinly.
 
I have a simplicity/AC 12" plow I pull with my 1200. I think it works darn nice especially for not having a coulter. Trash doesn't seem to give it much trouble. It rolls most everything right under. In my opinion its just as heavy duty as a brinly. Last time I had it out was in a hurry to get neighbors garden plowed and forgot to take the time to get it adjusted properly, which wasn't an issue til I got into a spot where I was +10" in the ground and high centered the rear end. Oh well, live and learn. It was still fun, and the first time I was able to plow in 2nd which was much nicer.
 
Joseph: How old is your Simplicity/AC plow? My impression is that most plows at plow day events tend to be older (Brinly) models, though I'm not sure about this. Also wondering if the most durable 8", 10" and 12" plows tend to be of any certain age...?
 
Mike Frade:I see you just put a 169 engine in an (OT) Ford. I just had a 16 horse Kohler from a (OT) Ford given to me. I'm going to have the short block redone over the winter and then put in my 149. Question - is the crankshaft (clutch end) the same size on the (OT) Ford's engine as the 169's K341? I assume I'll have to use the 149 pan and the rod should be the deep dipper design from a 169.. Anyone with experience in using a non Cub K341 or most of the other K-motors, I'd be interested in their experience..

Jeremiah: Sorry for the confusion... Great set of pics on the hour meter.. it's really same design as all the automotive clocks from the pre-electronic era. Solenoid winds the clock spring.. I think I got to work on one out of a '51 Ford when I was about 12 years old.. Points needed cleaning..Clean the gears with some no-residue solution - I've heard clock repair guys use kerosene..

Dennis: Bridgeport screwdrivers.... I must have bought the gear headed box opens the same time you did - I like em, but I'm always bumping the reversing lever at the wrong time...the trade off for having offset (angled) heads versus the old style that you just flipped (Dad had a set of those)..
 
Jeremiah - hey thanks for all your efforts on the IH Hour Meter. I found the internals very interesting and I'm gonna have to check the details in the Machine Shop section.

Now, got a question/need from you guys that have a late model QL unit, probably with the 1" front spindles and later style steering wheels. I'm trying to help someone with a decal restoration and the original decal with the "patent" info is blurred, and can't make out the patent numbers for Canada and Australia. I'll post of pic of the decal so you can see the blurry numbers. Can one of you post or send me a pic of your decal that shows these patent numbers??? Appreciate your help.
247016.jpg
 
I can see Canada as being 1975, 1976, 1977. Running close to Archive Bug?
happy.gif
 
Jeremiah VERY cool pics and work on the hour meter.

1. do you see any little levers you could move to make the hands advance straight to zero

2. any way of salvaging the case to re-use some how, like with a good adheasive

Frank this post should do it...
 

Latest posts

Back
Top