Archive through October 10, 2012

[jbaker]

Ryan as the others said a decent 9/16 ratheting wrench will do it, I recently pulled and re-installed the 4 engine bolts on a k301 with the mule drive for the tiller hooked up, by just one wrench and a floor jack.

 

[jbaker]

Brian to add to what Dennis said covers where an option on most an I believe they only came standard on the IH built 782

 

[dtanner]

jeff l baker


It don`t hurt to use a dab of hard grease to hold the bolt in place. Make sure you have you have room for the grease . That is another story

ratchet wrench and set it all on one finger, works slick. Takes me longer to get ready than it does to pull those above axle bolts or back in. Starting with back engine bolt to install my K`s and Left axle bolt because I`am right handed .

 

[fcurrier]

Boy, could this spider out into a new thread in the SANDBOX! "My Tools" or "My Favorite Tools" or "My Special Tools" or "Why Didn't I Buy This Years Ago" or . . .
Tools are special, not only for what they'll help you do, but for the memories that they hold, both good and not so good. As a case in point, I've got a 9/16" cheap combination that I bent especially to help readjust the distributor cap on a '63 Buick Skylark V-6 that Dad got from my aunt. That was over 40 years ago and before every driver in a family had several vehicles to choose from. The Buick is long gone - the wrench is still here and used occasionally.
Weather permitted to hook 149 Fernando to the woodsplitter and put a small trailerload of seasoned, tho damp, firewood into the cellar this afternoon. Fernando's hydraulic lift weeps down quite rapidly. Must need a new tool to fix that!

 

[jbaker]

Don T excellent advice on the grease, I also take more time setting up, I got them down pretty good.

 

[rmcshane]

Jeff and Dennis- I do have a set of Gearwrenches, they do work fantastic for that purpose. But, I still find it a pain to get that one out next to the steering arm.

 

[jsalatino]

Oh yeah, you cant beat havin good tools! Well a variety of good tools I should say. I probably have more craftsmen more then anythimg ,some mac & snap on but not a whole lot.there a lil exspensive.Not to mention tryin to replace them, Its nice to run over to sears and take a box a broken tools to swap out real fast.the others,I dont know where any snap on or mac trucks are.Where can you even buy snap on?Do any stores sell them or is it mostly off the trucks?

 

[mgwin]

David L. Smith,

First of all,

to the best Cub Cadet website!
My apologies,
It appears you got lost in the shuffle on your question. It happens to all of us some time or another. It's not that we don't care, we just get excited from time to time and overlook things.
As for your question about item IH 376307-R2, it is 1-3/4 inches long with a tapped end with 5/16-18 NC threads. The tapped hole is 3/4" deep, but the threads only go in 1/2" (a bolt will screw in about 1/2"). The other end is concave in order for the lift retaining clip to stay in place to allow the lift to "float". Again, welcome!

 

[jbaker]

Marty, good catch

Welcome David..

 

[bwittman]

Jeff and Dennis,

Thank you very much for the advice on the hub caps for a Quietline. I picked up a set this evening. I paid too much for them, but don't know when I will see another set for sale.

All this talk about the correct tool to remove/install the mounting bolts for an engine, it occurs to me that a Quietline engine could be easily removed/replaced by removing the ISO mount bolts and lifting the engine a couple of inches to expose the engine cradle/mounting rails. Then, the engine mount bolts could easily be accessed with a 9/16" flex socket. It seems to me that this method would either save a few skinned knuckles, preserve the King's English, and would avoid the need to remove the front axle. ...Just a thought....


The only things that should be green and yellow are the NDSU Bison. GO Bison!

 

[dschwandt]

Getting a wrench on the nuts of the ISO bolts is the problem w/that approach. BTDT
I doubt you would have much luck re-installing it using that route either.
No doubt they must have not had the axle assly installed on the line when the engines were dropped in place. JMHO

Dave S.

 

[jbaker]

I should say that my excperience is only with 1x8,9 series engine removal

 

[dfrisk]

JONATHAN - I agree completely, unless you work someplace the S-O or MAC truck stops at, exchanging or buying those brands of tools is a pain. I think you can buy S-O & Blue Point (S-O's imported line of tools) from their website. But Yes, you can always call the guy driving the truck and arrange to meet him someplace but it's not near as convenient & timely. The SEARS store never moves. I forget what I was working on years ago, maybe a CC mechanical PTO clutch, but I broke several allen wrenches, and the local Sears store gladly replaced all that I returned. Local store down in Moline, IL 20-25 yrs ago was a REAL pain to work with, I almost started chasing the local tool trucks to get away from Craftsman.

FRANK - Was your '63 Skylark a 4-door hardtop? DAD had a '67 for a work car for a few years. It was my first car on weekends before I bought my '70 Nova. I had a LOT of fun nights in that Skylark! I loved the sound of that odd-fire 225 CID 90 degree V6. It had a 2-spd PowerGlide A/T, would run about 70 in low & 85-90 in drive. Not real fast out of the hole but was a fun car anyhow. It replaced a '63 Dodge Dart with the 198 CID slant-6 & push-button A/T that was nick-named, "The DODGE FAILURE".

ANYHOW, Please return to discussing Cub Cadets and tools used to work on them, or anything else CC related.

 

[hydroharry]

Brian W - I don't know anyone that hasn't paid to much for the hubcaps, and you didn't even tell us what condition they are in. I've seen rusted and dented sets sell for $300 so maybe you really didn't pay to much. I assume yours have the IH emblems in the center.

Now, on removing the QL engine I agree with David S. The problem is getting at the lock nut used on the top of the bolt. I believe you can access the ones on the left side but the right side gets fairly well hidden. And now I'm wondering how you went about adjusting the torque on the nuts when you were changing and adjusting your new ISO-mounts. I know you went thru great pains and still suffer with vibration (although last I knew it improved). I think the only way you can really adjust the torque on the ISO-mounts is with the engine removed since it's really a function of the torque on the nut side while the bolt is held in place. How did you get at the nuts? Did you somehow hold the nut with a wrench and torque the bolt?

Ok, now I have a question for all you guys that have been around the bigger IH stuff. The CC Model 169 was the first unit to be equiped with an IH hour meter. The same meter continued to appear on the QL units but located on the dash. I was wondering if IH had this hour meter in the parts bin? Was it used on any of the bigger units or did it originate on the Cub Cadet?

 

[jjsmith]

When I had the engine out of my 1200 to fix the clutch I didn't have too much trouble with the engine mount bolts. With the cradle mod already dun the rails stay right where they need to be. I used a shallow socket and a 3/8 snap off flex head ratchet and without removing the grill I had it out by myself in 10-15 min. Jack the front up so you can pivot the axle as far as it will go and ratchet jus fits in there. I had more curse words tryin to line up the clutch disc and driver pins. Jus my experience...

 

[bwittman]

Harry,

I had no trouble accessing the ISO mount bolts with the engine in place using two 9/16" combination wrenches. My wrenches are Proto, but I don't think brands make much difference in this case. I do remember that it might be better to stand on one's head to see the task at hand, but the braille system works too. the left front corner was the most difficult, but all four corners were accessible with the combo wrenches. It seems to me that if one was to remove those bolts, lift the engine with a hoist as far as possible, the four bolts that hold the engine to the engine cradle, either two piece or one piece, could easily be removed with a 9/16" flex socket and an extension of choice, and the engine could then be lifted from the tractor. Install in reverse order. This method could certainly ease the agony of those front engine mounting bolts. It should also make taking off the front axle less desirable.

As for my hub caps. They came from a 782 that a gentleman had restored. It was the nicest paint job on a tractor that I have seen and everything was fit perfectly. The decals were straight, and one could see that there was a lot of care put into this tractor. I begged the guy not to sell them to me because they were standard on a 782, and belonged on that tractor. He said he wanted to show off his IH white wheels. Okay, so I bought them, with the understanding that I would sell them back to him if he changed his mind. They are a little pitted, and one front cap has a nasty dent in it, but I wasn't sure where I might find another full set. I thought a hundred was too much, but I bought them anyway.

I hope they clean up fairly well. They look to be stainless steel rather than chrome plated. They do have the IH emblem in the middle.

I must be nuts.


The only things that should be green and yellow are the NDSU Bison. GO Bison!

 

[drglinski]

Both of my dad's cubs have chrome wheel covers (his 125 has chromed covers and the 782 has the IH emblem in the center.) His would look weird without them. I do not have them on my 147 and I'm ok with that, so I am indifferent when it comes to wheel covers.

 

[jsalatino]

Dennis..It is nice bein able to exchange them without a hassle.About 3 weeks ago I went to sears to swap a bunch a tools out,7-8 ratchets,sockets,bunch a screwdrivers.Even aq few2 things were were totally my fault,left a universal sittin outside and rusted up.I'm pretty hard on my tools,i do brake alot of them.Thats why I've got 5& 6 of everything in my boxes.when one breaks I grab another,mostly ratches & screwdrivers.Anymore as long as it has a lifetime guarentee ,no hassle replacing them I dont care what brand they are.I'm in cincinnati so theres plenty of sears,home depot & lowes around

 

[jsalatino]

sorry Dennis ,, I have no idea how that happened,can somone fix that? Maybe charlie? lol sorry man

 

[kide]

Jonathon... Breaking tools?

You'd never get close to my tool box - I've still got Snap On stuff that my dad used when he worked in a Ford dealership (and he left that trade in '62). I've still got all of the original S-K Wayne socket set he gave me from Christmas 1967, although they're losing chrome from use with a 3/8 " Butterfly and a couple of them are showing a little wear. The worst wear I see is the 1/4 " socket out of one of my Craftsman 1/4" drive sets. I go crazy if I can't find a tool - I lost a ratchet a few years ago and looked for a week before replacing it - I replaced that with the most expensive Craftsman I could buy, just so I wouldn't forget losing a tool..... Dad taught me the value of tools - ya can't make a living without them and if you're breaking them, either they're cheap, the wrong tool for the job or you need to acquire a feel for how tight or seized something is...