Archive through May 18, 2016

[wshytle]

Billy-

As Frank vaguely stated, the parts circled are backwards on the drawing. The spring actually fits within the bell of the spacer so just reverse them.

.

 

[hydroharry]

Frank - yup, you're right again. I missed that line below the PTO pic. But a "red 682" ????? That'll end up mess'n up your paint stock. And besides that it's got 2 cylinders - which means it's twice as much to take care of. Better off stickin with the 10hp K241 you mentioned earlier. Nice smooth little engine runs almost forever.

 

[fcurrier]

Well, Harry, I think it's off topic Friday and I should take pics and mention the 1811 that I had and regret selling but now I have a <font color="ff0000">682 </font><font color="000000"> and should really update my profile but as a friend told me yesterday (and I should add this to my tagline) "I put the PRO in Procrastination".

I'll do that, later.

</font>

 

[wsdrake]

Hi Frank and Wayne-

I thought they were, but I wanted to make sure before I messed up. Glad I have the service manual, because evidently you can't rely on the parts lookup for nothing but part numbers. Thank you both for the help.

 

[mhomrighausen]

What size of wire does Kohler use for the spark plug wires? I need to make up some new ones for three of the Cub Cadets and I can't see paying the high prices or one wire when I can buy spark plug wire cheaper at the local NAPA. Once again... TIA.

 

[danderson]

Marlin-As old as these engines are I'd say 7mm. 8mm came out with electronic ignition.

 

[nbextermueller]

I'm sneaking in on off topic Friday. I want to switch the Kohler carb on my 782 to a #26 or #30 I have laying around. But both of these carbs have a different style throttle shaft than the KT carb. Has any come across an easy fix to this? Or am I stuck fabbing together a new arm on the #26 shaft?

As for plug wires. I've been using left over 8mm MSD spiral core wire for years. I have tons left over after each universal kit for car projects. I even use the MSD plug clips and boots.

Just make sure your not using solid core wire.

 

[mgonitzke]

Nic, I think the easy fix is use the throttle/choke shaft from the KT-17 carb in the #26.

 

[bdmiller]

About to get the 102 back up and running

 

[bellwood]

Hey all!

Been a bit since I've posted so I hope everyone is well!

Having some issues with my 124 this year...

Started up and drove great for the first mow of the year but things went south on the second mow...

I am having some serious shift and braking issues...

Just a little preface, as long as I've had this 124 the clutch pedal has always floated, never returning the stop...

During usage there be some rattling when the petal was floating so I'd find myself putting my foot under it to raise it up and silence it...

So, my second mow, everything goes well at first until I need to shift about 5 minutes into the mow... She's sticking horribly requiring two hands to disengage and putting her into gear is grindy...

So I swung her back to the garage and as I pull in, no breaking... I had to push the pedal with all my might to get any breaking and then pull with both hands to get out of first gear to come to a halt

So I drop the deck, and get under there and find that the clutch return spring is broken... Half is hanging from the frame and where it would connect to the shift assembly has been replaced with a cotter pin

So that explains the floating pedal and was an easy enough fix with a new spring

So then I notice in front of the clutch lever something that looks like a worn gromit just hanging out between the lever and the pressure plate... I can't see the throwout bearing on the other side of the lever but maybe its the front of the throwout bearing (I will get a picture to post ASAP)

So given all that info, what are your thoughts?

Thanks all =)