Archive through October 06, 2009

[dfrisk]

ED - You're a LOT younger than KENDELL & I am. We can remember gas for 12-15 cents a gallon!

I was about 19 when I got my first car, I was just TOO CHEAP to NOT drive Dad's pickup. I could fill up the gas tank (18 gal tank, '70 Nova) with leaded Premium ($6 to $8), and the change back from a Twenty was my Pocket Money for the next week! Now days I spend more than that for gas to mow the lawn ONCE.

 

[jott]

Hey guys, on the little asterik * symbol on the SN tag, my 147 and the 127 that I have sitting here both have it.

 

[mtoney]

I try to add lead to my gas for my model 70 when I remember to. I notice a slightly different scent to the exhaust when running the lead addative in the fuel. That being said, I havent seen any older K series with valve seat issues beyond pitting and needing recut and lapped in during a full overhaul. Mike

 

[rwilke]

Jeff B.,
Thanks for sharing your Cub data!

Dennis F.,
Funny you should quote the IH FARMALL Operator's manual, "Buy clean fuel, Keep it clean." Because that is what my father claims is the secret to keeping his many tractors running smoothly. In fact, he swears by using a petro-screen in his funnel when adding fuel to anything from his chainsaw to his 6500 Ford backhoe/loader. The petro screen will even prevent condensation (water) that may have collected in his 5-gallon can from passing thru into the tank.

Ryan Wilke

 

[rpalmer]

Ed Tourjee,

 

[bbranstetter]

Got my clutch rebuilt this evening and noticed that my plates would not contact the clutch disk if the teaser spring was installed, using resurfaced clutch disks. I didn't relize that the spring tolerance was so close when it was compressed so I had to remove the teaser spring.

Updated the drive line with a new drive shaft, clutch disk and roll pins so hopefully the clutch will release ok without the teaser spring.

The last two plow days I've been getting clutch slippage when it was in heavier ground in second gear. This time I added a lock collar spacer instead of just a washer between the roll pin and the clutch spring. Hope this isn't too much.

Hopefully plow day will go off as planned this weekend and we can see what the drive line does.

 

[bbowman]

Hello All;
A friend of mine is dis-assembling his K301(we think)
for an overhaul.He checked the cylinder bore and found it to be 3.50",which is the standard bore for a K321.Is it possible someone actually overbored the cylinder this much,or has someone dropped in a 321 with a 301 flywheel? Forgot to add that it's in a CC122.No data plate is on the engine,and he hasn't pulled the flywheel yet to check the casting on the block.

Has anyone used a smaller flywheel on a 321 and had good results? We'll know for sure tommorrow night when we complete the dis-assembly,I'm just pondering the possibilities!
Thanks,Bobby B.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bobby, Denny F., has a small flywheel K321 in his 72. I believe he did this quite a few years ago with no problems.

 

[mstetar]

bobby ive heard of lots of people doing that without any problems, in fact thats whats in my 100 if i ever get it back together

anyone got any tips on removing a hydro handel on a 125?

 

[wshytle]

From all the recent talk about gas and additives nobody mentions using high test (I don't think). An older gentleman that has been around Kohlers for many years told me to use premium gas in everything with a small engine. According to him it has a longer shelf life too. I've been using it now for a couple of years. It does reduce carbon on the top end.
I'd like to hear some feedback from other hightest users if they exist. Any problems...?

 

[rwilke]

Matt S.,
I recall trying to remove the hydro handle on my 127 and OMGosh - WHAT A JOB!

Of course you've removed the set screw, correct?

I just kept squirting penetrating oil into the set screw opening twice a day and I tapped on it and I pulled on it and I 'gently' heated it without popping the chrome....and then finally, after more than a week of messing with it, I cut it off.

Yes, it was destroyed, but I got it off and then replaced it with a different one.

Good Luck!

Ryan Wilke

 

[rwilke]

Wayne S.,
I heard the same thing and it made sense to me as well, so I've been using quality, name-brand, Premium-grade gasoline for years too.

I don't use any Stabil (however, I do use MMO in the mix for all the 4-stroke, air-cooled engines) and I don't run the pushmowers, Cubs, power generator, rototiller or the tow truck out of fuel before they go for their 'long sleep' over winter. Generally, I'll give the Cubs and the tow truck a start up around the Cmas holidays/1st of the year, just because I can, but not the others.

None of them give me any grief in the Spring. They are, however, all stored inside an unheated shed.

Ryan Wilke

 

[mstetar]

well im trying to get this off without hurting that shaft (i sold it) so some penatrating oil will hopefilly do the trick

 

[bbrigham]

Wayne....I do believe you are wasting money putting high test gas in your Cub. The only thing it's good for is if it is needed due to higher compression. I used to buy a lot of Cam 2 for my race bike so of course I tried it in other stuff like a garden tractor and they didn't even like it. We even tried it in my uncles bike and it ran worse with the Cam 2 and as soon as he drained it and put 89 octane in it, it ran great. Compression is what dictates what octane to use. The only reason I would suggest anything but the lowest octane is if you wanted to get away from the ethanol they put in the gas now. The Hess I get my gas at has ethanol in the 87 octane but the 89 does not. I still use the 87 until I notice adverse effects in my Cubs.

 

[mgonitzke]

Brian B.-

That teaser spring is there for a reason...You're probably going to have a really jerky, grabby clutch without it.

 

[kide]

If you're going to run premium in your stock Cub, at least go all the way and run race gas...at least you'll get the benefit of good smelling exhaust. BTW, speaking of exhaust, be ready to replace the exhaust valve sooner, since the slower burn in premium gas will mean it can still be "combusting" when the exhaust valve opens.. Higher octane doesn't mean higher energy, it means a higher resistance to preignition. In the old days, that was accomplished with tetrathyl lead, which <u>would</u> have protected the valve seats, but modern anti-knock additives don't have that capability.. So go ahead, at least get something that'll make 'er smell like that big Blue Oval mountain motor.....

 

[bbranstetter]

Matt,

Not to worry. It shouldn't be any rougher than when it was running on two out of three driver pins. lol. (my first plow day)

 

[wcardwell]

Two of the real flat pry bars, mine are made by Vaughn, they fit under the hydro handle with out damaging the dash, pry up evenly and heat up the handle a little , oh ya, grab it and jerk it around to loosen it. Along those lines. Ive yet to see any one come off easy. .There never seems to be much rust holding them on,just some friction fome how they fit together I guess.

 

[tschweizer]

Just wanted to stop in and say hi to everone. I been playin' with bigger IH's now lol.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Matt S., to break the handle free try driving it farther on before you try to pry it off. You may have to give it a pretty good hit, be sure to protect the handle with a block of wood.

Travis, long time no post!

Email me your photo I'll post it for you.