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Archive through October 02, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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JOESEPH - I can't say for sure WHAT, without seeing pictures or some sort of description, but something is wrong and you shouldn't run your 100 with no clutch free travel. It means the throw-out bearing is probably turning ALL the time. And they won't tolerate that for very long.
 
I have a 1450 and i put hydraulic outlets out the back by t'ing of the lift control valve. It had 500 psi. We shimmed the transmission relief valve and got 900 psi but did not mess with the impliment valve... Im wanting to get 1200 psi. Cant the transmission withhold 1200 without breaking anything?
 
Tyler S.-

Why do you need so much pressure?

Edit: I just looked in the Sundstrand Manual and it discusses the implement relief valve being set "up to 800 psi". I'd say don't go any higher. You're already pushing it at 900 psi.

Edit 2: I think you need to shim the implement relief spring and not the charge pump relief spring. I hope Marlin steps in here to confirm or deny that...
 
I have a wood splitter for it. the more pressure i get the better it would be.
 
A log splitter would be much better off with a dedicated engine and pump. Using the charge pump to power hydraulic accessories is for intermittent use only. A log splitter is not very intermittent, particularly if you have a large cylinder. I think you may damage the hydro if you do something like this.
 
I tried it today and it worked fine.. and I actually adjusted the implement relief valve..But my alternative was to put an auxiliary pump on the mower.. but thanks for the sunstrand manual link! It had the information i needed. Thanks!
 
Thanks for the advice on fixing my rear tire. I got the tire off the rim and the rim all cleaned up. I think I'll try to find a tire shop to put the tube in and the tire back on the rim. My luck, I'd poke a hole in the tube putting the tire back on! By the way, this tire is off a 104. Does anyone know what brand tire was used when these were new? What's on it is a B.F. Goodrich Silvertown. Just curious if that's the stock tire. It looks old enough to be stock!
Thanks again!
 
TYLER - To add to what Matt's said, the charge pump normally runs 200-250 PSI continuously, but can only run at 800 PSI for very short periods.

Best design would be a PTO driven pump, maybe a 2-stage pump but since you have 14 HP to play with you could probably get by with a high pressure single stage. If you look at Northern Tools catalog there's lots of pumps in the 2000-2500 PSI range. If you loo at smaller GPM pumps the intermittant pressures go up to 3000+ if I remember right.

I think after extended use at 900-1200 PSI the shafts the pump gears are part of could twist, and then there's possible distortion to the pump body itself, blown seals/o-rings. The 15U system is unbelievably durable, but it can be broken.
 
Ok heres a question for ya. The cylinder seals on my Danco RD 1000 loader are leaking and I want to replace them. Does any body have part numbers for the seals needed? I do not want to take them apart just to try to get seals because the hydraulic shop in town here is kind of a sore topic. So I figured if I could get some part numbers I would call to the next nearest place to see if they can help before driving there 60 miles. ANY help or information will be greatly appreciated! Thanks
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Kevin - I tried to use one of the harbor frieght small tire changers. That didnt go so well. I'll leave out all the details of my feelings, but basically would rather fight my way through Mordor and cast the tire changer into the firey lava lake in Mount Doom. Some people use em and have no problems, it just wasnt working for me.

Last set of tires (25" atv for rear and V61's up front) I had discount tire mount. I bought the ATV tires through them anyhow. They claimed they used the same machine as car tires its just harder for them to do. One thing I didnt notice for quite a while though, they must have screwed one up because one front had the stem from the tube like it should have and the other had a regular stem sticking out. Grrr. Thing is the one that had the tube properly installed only lasted a month - I put the tire on backwards once and first revolution tore the stem out. Cant blame that one anyone but me. Found a local tire guy about 2 miles away but he wanted double what discount tire wanted. Well it saves me that much in gas running to town so thats ok.

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Kevin Conway (Kconway) on Sunday, October 03, 2010 - 02:24 pm:

I have a rear tire (23 x 12 x 8.50)that needs a tube. I called the local Firestone dealer but they said they can't do it because their machine can't handle that small of rim. I tried other tire stores but nobody else was open since it's Sunday. Where do you guys have your tires mounted? Do you do it yourself?<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
 
Got some work done on the 149 today... assembled the rest of the brakes... It'll sure be nice to have functioning brakes, instead of using the hydro lever...


From the "outsmart myself" dept,
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I saw this done before on the forum, but I guess it was on an internal brake rear... DOH!! Time for studs, so Off with their heads!!!
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214072.jpg

Spacers for a little more tire chain clearance..
214073.jpg

While connecting the brakes up for the first time in 20 years, I ran into this Snafu:
214074.jpg

What's wrong with this picture? DOH!!
 
Scott,
Looks like you forgot to lift your brake lever while sliding in your drive train.

And your coupling is wallowed out.
 
Hi guys - just wanted to let you know that I am still around and have not fallen off the earth. I miss the daily posting, but still have not put my life back together, and will probably be on the sidelines for quite a while yet. I see I even missed a posting by Bryan.. I'll keep checking in and WILL be back sometime!
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Charlie,Thanks for the response,looked at cub classics site a while ago, but the pic looks like too many parts based on picture in manual, I e-mailed him to check. I shure hope he has them. Thanks, Todd
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