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Archive through November 23, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Kraig, Digger said that he thought you might have more information on the pull type rotary mower(made out of a original mower deck); like what they used for a driveshaft and such. It was the topic of discussion this weekend.
Thanks alot Tyler
 
Tyler T,
If ya remember, I said Kraig Might. And since he dint post anything, he probably doesn't. That's kinda the way it works, if no one has anything else to offer, it gets quiet on the subject till some one does.
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Bryan; one, thanks, one of these days I may actually purchase a manual. I'll take a look at the "boomerangs" and see how involved it is to change that. Everything but the chute rod and lift rod were already assembled when I bought it so I didn't much look at that assembly and took for granted that it was right.
Two; putting big pics really wasn't my intention, and, boy do they look like crap compared to what they were on my screen, in the future I'll reduce the overall size and keep the resolution.

Digger; I am an engineer, but darn sure not of Information Technology. Forgive my lack of visual stimulus dexterity (at least I think you're referring to the pictures, and not the tractor).
 
Tyler T
The pull type mower you are asking about was built by Steve or Scott Urschel. Not sure what the shaft is from, but if I remember correctly, the mower does not work because the PTO does not turn fast enough for the blades to cut grass. It was built just for show, along with the tricycle front wheel setup on the 1x2 tractor it is connected to.
 
Charlie:
Thanks for the info on Slip Plate. That is a new product for me. I had not heard of that before.
Is this product sold by any chains? I looked for distributors, but the one that I found sold it in case lots. More than I need.
Thanks
Earl L
Burnsville MN
 
Earl L,
Up in your neck of the woods, I would say try any implement dealer, Napa or a farm store of some kind. Down here in farm country, everybody carries the dang stuff.
If all else fails, Let me know and I'll send ya some.

(Message edited by cproctor on November 23, 2004)
 
Dave K.

I don't understand the "range" you mention in your governor post below. On a Kohler K series engine with variable throttle control 2 things control the "range" from idle to WOT.....the idle stop on the carb and the high speed stop on the throttle cable termination bracket. Everything else having to do with the spring becomes a sensitivity issue. Please explain your "range" concept.....
 
Hi Steve!

The "range" aspect is limited by the throttle idle-stop, and the WOT stop on the bracket. If you have the spring set to the highest (furthest from fulcrum) position, the amount of throttle throw required to go from idle tension (on the spring) to sufficient tension to reach maximum governed speed occurs over a very short range, hence, a person would have to screw the max-speed stop WAY in to keep from exceeding revs, and the throttle control would be so touchy, it'd be more or less on, or off.

By moving DOWN the throttle side, closer to the fulcrum, the WOT stop can be backed out, and the throttle will have a more trimmable 'range'.

This assumes that the person doing the adjustment used the proper spring, didn't have cable-travel-throw problems, had the governor arm properly sync'd, and had the 'sensitivity' selection point located in such a way that the governor/spring relationship was actually functioning.

I believe the gentleman that posted indicated that he actually HAD governing, just didn't have the ability to control the full range, even with the idle stop correct, and the max-speed stop screwed all the way out. At the time, I posted that I suspected he had an incorrect spring length, and upon finding a longer spring in my parts-box, I did a test swap on Loader-Mutt, and found that it exhibited the characteristic which he indicated.

As an experiment, I tried re-orienting positions, stops, etc. to get proper governing AND full throttle range, and it just wouldn't do it. Upon reinstalling the shorter spring, it jumped right back into line.
 
Earl, I'm sure many of the sponsors stock slip plate. I know Carter & Gruenewald does.

John
 
Tyler, I don't have any additional info on that pull behind mower. From the look of it I'd say the PTO shaft is off of an old hay bale elevator or some otehr old piece of farm equipment.

Earl, you can get a similar product from Fleet Farm. It's called Non-Stick Graphite Paint.
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Snowing to beat the band in Peoria.........probably won't stick to the drive, but the 782 can handle it if it does!!!!
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Weather guesser says 3-4" by tonight
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Dave,

I can see how you could make minor adjustments to the throttle travel that way (never has been an issue with any Cub I've ever worked on).

I was a little concerned that that's how you were setting your high speed rpm.....without using the stop.
 
Governor springs -

When I replaced the gov spring on the 1450 a few years back, it was green. I asked Scott M why it was like that and IIRC, he said they came in different colors depending on the application. I assume that to mean different lengths, strengths, etc. depending on spec number and such.

So...

I wouldn't even THINK of taking a spring off another engine - it's probably not the same, I wouldn't trust the PO to have the proper spring on the old (or current) engine. And it's probably been weakened a bit due to use.

Is it THAT imperative that the tractor be put to use RIGHT NOW that one can't wait to get a new, proper spring? Or are we that "squeaky" that we can't bear the thought of opening our wallet even a little bit?
 
Bryan-
Exactly, considering differnt applications the springs ARE differnt for generator/welder engines, garden tractors, general industrial, etc.

IIRC, the carb, governor, linkage, and springs are a sort of "system" per application.
 
Wyatt -

Phew, thanks - I was hoping I had recalled all that correctly.

I didn't have any quality time with the parts books to sort it all out yet
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BRYAN - Wyatt has a direct LINK to KOHLER Central!
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Your Local Source for Cub Cadet parts might have trouble decifering the part numbers however....
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Denny -

I wasn't really concerned with generator springs vs. tractor springs. More like someone taking a spring off a 147 and putting it on a 1450. I think the Cub Cadet books will work just fine for that.
 
Bryan-
QL springs are their own beast, they're the long spring that goes from the blower-housing bellcrank to the governor.
 

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