Archive through November 23, 2004

[dfrisk]

Bryan - I just go up to My Part Guy's Counter.... tell Him what I want and He reaches into the cabinent & grabs the part without looking at the book, Fische, computer, etc... He's a Sponsor too! But I bet if You gave Him a number like "A94137" for a #316 He'd probably come right over the Counter after You! At the very least try to direct you to the proper source for that part....

 

[jstorma]

I have new breather parts today. Can someone tell me if there is a certian way to put the breather plate in? I am curious because of the flange that sticks down. My maual doesn't say anything about it.

Jim

 

[jhangartner]

Dave Steve and Bryan

Thanks for the continued discussion on this issue of governor springs. I have been paying close attention.

Unfortunately I do not have any more info to add As I have not had a chance to explore my issue any further. I promise that during the Holiday weekend I am going to look into the issue a little more.

I will say that I am trying to adjust the engine speeds using a tachometer to set the high and low rpms.

Steve...in a nutshell I can only get the throttle cable to take the engine from either 1800-2400 rpms....Or if I preload the governor spring more when attaching it to the cable the full throttle lever throw will only adjust the engine speed from 2400-3300rpm. When running the tractor I think that the engine was governing properly as the rpms do not drop significantly under load. It is a new rebuilt K341 in a 1650 with a completetley rebuilt carb and I have adjusted the governor many times according to the engine manual and instructions posted here that were the same. In fact the procedure is now burned into my brain. I recently aquired it from a PO with a tired motor. The engine starts and runs fine.

I have not had opportunity to order a new governor spring as yet to see if they sent me one that is shorter or sronger than the one I am using now that came with the tractor.

 

[bmcmeen]

Denny -

Geez, settle down. I'm not buying or ordering anything. What I'm doing is called RESEARCH. Knowledge for knowledge's sake.

 

[digger]

Bryan,
Only cause your cheap!

 

[Guest]

Happy GREAT BIG TURKEY Day to all you CC Officiandos, rookies, newbies and what ever else you might be.
The GHOST of Hydro Harry speeketh again.

I thought I might pipe in with a few words on these Governor Springs -

1st - Bryan - I'm puzzled with what Scott M told you about the color of Kohler parts - if the color varied depending on application, then why was your new one green? The infamous rare "black" cc engines had black governor springs. Many many years ago I replaced the Governor spring on my 1450, and since it was an emergency I had to buy it from a Wheel Horse dealer - it was correct part number - and it was black. I will say when I replaced the tin heat shield on the head and the tin coil mount/heat shield bracket that mounts on the side of the cylinder, I ordered it at the local CC dealer and it came thru Olive Drab color (geez - never understood that either).

Now - Jason H - I didn't look back for all your postings - so I'm at risk here with my blabbering - but - here goes anyway - I'd be suspicious of the throttle linkage on your carb more so than the governor spring. If the governor spring linkage and mount are all correct I suspect your spring is OK. I'd start checking over the carb and the link to the gov. arm. I'm wondering if someone fooled around with it?

Hydro Harry
Hydros Forever

 

[thoffman]

OK, expecting to see some snow plowing pix tommorow from the midwest.

 

[thoffman]

Kinda' O/T, but can some one send me a pic of a 2284 OR is it pretty much the same as a 982???

 

[jhangartner]

Harry,

I did rebuild the throttle shaft on the carb. As well as a new float adjusted to the manuals specifications, a new float needle and seat, and a new high speed needle. The link from the Gov. arm to the carb is just the snap on captive spring clip over the ball that is on the top of the throttle shaft. It did'nt seem to me that much could go wrong in this area, just snap the arm off and then back on again?

I am not above saying that I goofed something up somewhere. Will any pictures help?

Also let me ask this I went back to the manual to check the sensitivity setting and the manual states that the spring should be in the 3rd hole down from the cross shaft. does this sound right? Closer to the shaft for more sensitivity and farther away for less.

 

[bmcmeen]

Tom H. -

Ya really don't wanna see pics of me and the Simple-city clearing my driveway, do ya?

Man, that was some HEAVY wet stuff...

 

[sblunier]

This morning's radio weather on the way into work:

"Possibly three to four inches of snow, accumulation in grassy areas, but not on warmer surfaces like roads etc...."

Noon: Sleet and rain mix...no snow yet.

3:30pm I'm leaving work early, to beat the first batch of idiots in what's turning out to be lots of heavy snow.

4:30pm I've moved less than a mile in Peoria.

7:30pm I FINALLY get home......30 min. trip normally...took 4 HOURS tonight.......glare ice under packed snow, hills very difficult, trailers jack-knifed, 20mph MAX once I break out of stop and go traffic on glare ice......find <font size="+2">+8"</font> of snow on the ground.

8:00pm Get on 782 with blade, get stuck 4' from door of the shed due to lack of chains and a boat load of heavy wet snow.

8:10pm Get belt for thrower and put it on (no chains on blower tractor either)...<font size="+2">NO CAB</font> yet (that's what I do the day AFTER Thanksgiving)

8:20pm Blow my way up to the driveway...park 149 with blower, get back on 782

8:30pm Don't get $#%@ done with blade in 8" of Slushie snow.....park tractor after 2 driveways.

9:00pm Get back on 149 with 42" thrower and <font size="+2">NO CAB</font>. Blow snow for an hour.....don't move around for $%^# without chains.

10:15pm Enough is enough, back inside........heck of a way to start off the winter!!!!!!

(Message edited by sblunier on November 24, 2004)

 

[sblunier]

All of you guys who say that you don't need chains with their ag tires, and that you get along just fine in the snow must be doing something different than me..........

I have said it before, and I'll say it again....a GT is a pig on ice without <font size="+2">CHAINS</font>......I couldn't do anything without spinning all over and getting stuck tonight.....


<font size="+2">But</font>.....I did have <font size="+2">FUN!!!!!</font>, who wouldn't?!?!?!?!?

 

[hsimon]

Steve- Here is my secret to running ags in the winter without chains.......FLUID. Have run the 10.5's the last 3 winters on the 1650 without chains and no problems even with ice underneath. Sounds like you got what we were to get up here and I'm glad that it went south since I don't have a thing ready for winter other than the 1450 with the sweepster and that is the one that was tucked in the corner in the garage this spring when you where up for Spring Break.

Also I fried a turkey on Sunday that put the two in April to shame. Maybe I'll have to keep practicing and experimenting so when I do it again for everyone I have a new "secret recipie"


(Message edited by hsimon on November 24, 2004)

 

[sblunier]

Hugh,

Sorry, but I have fluid in both tractors I had out tonight....pig on ice....Friday evening or Saturday afternoon the cab goes on and the tires get "chained up"

 

[dkamp]

Steve, Bryan, Wyatt, Dennis, Jason... etc. etc...

No, Steve- I wasn't suggesting that a guy should use the bellcrank's positions to set the WOT and idle limits- just that if it's set too high, or too low on the bellcrank, the engine will either not reach it's full range, or go from idle to WOT with only a CH of lever-travel.

I wasn't recommending for a nanosecond that anyone use a spring other than the -correct- one... because the spring (as Wyatt noted) is a very integral part of the system... matches the leverage ratio of the governor arm, the governor gear diameter, weights, weight leverage ratio, etc. If the spring length and rate aren't right, it ain't gonna govern worth a hoot.

I made that point, simply because I'd been fighting a no-governing situation with an engine that I'd gotten from another gentleman who had the same problem. I gave it a complete teardown/rebuild, found nothing wrong with the governor internally... and was confounded by it... and then I compared springs with another identical motor. I even put test-weights on 'em to see if they had similar rates... they were identical, save for the one was 3/8" too long.

All I can imagine, is that there's another K-motor spec that uses a similar arrangement, but the throttle bellcrank is 3/8" farther away... and some PO way-back-when must'a got da wong spwing. BTW... out of all my machines, my gov springs are either black, yellow, oily, or rusty...

I can understand how this'd happen if a governor spring broke... like... out in a field somewhere... and the guy grabs what's left of his spring (missing the long-straight end?), carries it to his local small engine shop, where a guy grabs the one he's got, thinkin' it's exactly like the one that's missin' the long-end...

Because I've seen that kind of thing happen more'n once... especially to me... and it's bound to happen, especially if the spring broke on the poor sot when he was out in his driveway, tryin' to QA42 heavy-wet snow out'a his driveway with slippin' belts and no tire chains...

 

[dkamp]

Speakin' of which... I defeated an agghrivating problem with the 108 today... it's been really goofy... find sometimes, berzerk others... especially at larger throttle-openings... pops, bucks, sputters, etc.... started out only on occasions, got to the point where it was all-the-time.

After some head-scratchin', and some observations, it turned out to be condenser-RELATED problem. Enough corrosion formed between the condenser shell and the clamp-band so that it was tight, but not making good electrical contact.

The giveaway for condenser problems is an intense spark across the point gap at EVERY firing event.

After scrubbing the outside of the case with steel wool, and the inside of the band, I put it all back together, tested, and it worked great... hit it with a shot of clearcoat (to keep the crud out), and she's a runnin' machine now!

Back to wiring up the control panel for my Rotary Phase Converter...

 

[thoffman]

Thanks for the pix guys. There is one in a auction Saturday.

HAVE A GREAT TURKEY DAY!!

 

[kehrecke]

Steve B:
Your 4 hour drive home from work yesterday tells me that you need 4WD. Everybody knows that you become invincible with 4WD! Stopping, Schmopping - it's all about the "GO!"

Glad you got home safe. Please send the snow up this way. The Grove could use some excitement.

Keith

(Message edited by kehrecke on November 25, 2004)

 

[farmall gray]

Hydro Harry,
That olive drab is primer that kohler uses. I have stripped a few painted engine parts and found that color primer under the paint. Replacement parts come through with just the primer. I suspect they prime the parts when they make them. If they end up on a new engine, they get painted with the engine. If they end up as a replacement part, they stay in primer.

Steve B,
I agree with you. I ran my 782 one year with
ags and no chains with LOTS of weight and it was still a pig even in snow with no ice underneath.
I now run turfs with chains on my snow removal machines. I usually try to get my tractors ready
for snow about the beginning of Nov while it is still warm enough that I don't have to wear gloves to do it. Although I didn't put the blade on my 782 till yesterday, I had the cab and blower
on my 123 at least a month ago. That is also a good way to make sure the snow doesn't come till
later. ;-)

 

[bmcmeen]

SB -

(ducking...)Ya know, Steve, the only fluid in my Simplicity tires is tire snot. And no chains. Just a pair 6-12s with 25#-ers and my a$$...

Just not enough out there to bother with the thrower, but enough to become a rink overnight.

Have a great Thanksgiving everyone!!!