Archive through November 21, 2008

[dsacksteder]

this should explain it

clamps with bolt going thru

thanks

 

[digger]

Dustin,
I guess I'm just lazy.
I call Scott, tell him what I'm doin and he tells me what I need. I pay for it, he sends it and I install it.

 

[dtanner]

Well guys i think i have a 1512 tahats painted like a 782 DDDDDDDDD lol. I have arrange shipping , well some of it. Hope to have this home soon. Later Don T (Jim Spence might get a 125 out of this) i hate to sell CUbS . later Don T

 

[sstanton]

Thanks Kraig! I will be back up there tomorrow afternoon when I get out of work early to go hunting! By the way I never did find that buck.

 

[bbowman]

William Best;
I concur with Kraig;interesting rear lift! Any chance of you posting a rough dimension of the lower lift bars and that lift pin? You'll be the bell of the ball if you do!!LOL! Thanks,
Bob Bowman

 

[mstetar]

when installing the connecting rod on a K-241 which way does oil hole face?.... the cam side???
Right?

 

[dfrisk]

Matthew - The K-series manual is available in the FAQ's, all 137 pages. If Your on dial-up I know You wouldn't want to download & print the whole thing. So the oil hole is towards the cam and the two marks on the rod and cap are supposed to be towards the flywheel.

In just looking at the latest revision of the manual there's SO much new and improved information that I think I'll print a new copy of the manual. Lots of new information compared to the 20+ yr old hard copy manual I have.

 

[sstanton]

Does the V/R have to be the Delco brand? I have a spare one made by Eclin, it has the same 3 wire hookups as the Delco but is a shade different in shape and size.

 

[rwoods]

Question: Does a 1979 cub 1450 have the engine enclosures? I'm looking at a tractor that is for sale in my area but it appears to me that it's missing the enclosures? I'm not sure. Could someone please post a pic of what the original 1450 should look like.

 

[jsdavis]

Thank you Richard and ron,I tore down the hydro I got as an extra with the #2 123.Not near as hard as I thought it would be.The hydro on the left is the Hydro from the #1 123,It will be next.I wanted to start with the spare "just in case" Before I tore into the hydro that came out of #1.I cleaned them up and they are almost ready for paint.

Do you all think it would be a good Idea to put the motor and pump block,and swash plates in oil as it will be awhile before I reasemble the hydro?

 

[jwintsch]

Hey thanks to the folks that helped out with my serial question for the purpose of downloading a manual from Cub's website. Someone asked me to note if the old manual's are still there. I'm downloading the owners manual as I type this. The site lists a parts manual and a service manual but the links for them say 'not available at this time' If its the owners manual your after - your good to go! I also just grabbed a random serial number off the production page and it worked! since I don't have power in the barn yet and can't go looking for the S/N that was a time saving little trick.

 

[jsdavis]

Here's my helper,hes the youngest of the four and a real worker!!Hes 7 and stuck like glue to me,It great!

Here is another shot of the case wonder if you can polish it!!

And the seals,Im going to need three sets!!

 

[digger]

Reggie W.
All QL's came with side panels.

 

[rwoods]

Thanks Charlie, I thought this tractor was missing something. So the 1000 series is the quiet line series of tractors. I'm slowly catching on to the cub lingo.....

Thanks Again......

 

[digger]

Reggie W.
Here's a list of the QL's.

 

[rwoods]

Charlie,
The tractor I'm looking at was advertised as a 1450. The owner tell's me it has a 12 HP engine with a manual 3sp transmission. So according to your specifications chart if this machine is all original it must be a 1200 cub.

 

[rchristensen]

Jason It wouldn't hurt to place the parts in fluid if you are somewhere it may rust. I would paint the faceplate but not the case, leave it plain.

If it is a long time before you put the hydro's back together remember the motor and pump valve plates look almost the same but are not interchangeable. Also the charge pump must be oriented just right.

 

[jsdavis]

Richard
I took a few pictures as a took them apart.Here is the shameful part,I put the pics on the computer tonight and they are fuzzy!Tommorow morning Im going out to Re take the pictures while its still fresh in the mind.

The pictures were of the charge pump housing,rotor assembly and pin,port plats AND gasket.showing correct gasket direction!One positive of it all is when i disasembled it I put it back "Together" and placed it in a plastic container with a lid on it.

My valve plates have 4 grooves,motor valve plate ,and 2 grooves pump valve plate.

On the painting I plan on doing just what you suggest.I read somewhere on here paint burdens,(probably not the correct word),the cooling process of the fins.My case will stay unpainted as will my fins on the head and block of the kohler!
Thanks

 

[nhasson]

Finally got the engine in the Original.

 

[digger]

Nick H.
Great lookin machine man!