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Archive through June 23, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Terry B,
BULL HOCKEY!!!!!!!
I'll take an electric lift over armstrong or hydraulic anyday for snow throwin,pushin dirt or tilling anyday!
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Much better depth control and ease of use on both counts!
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Bart M,
So your sayin that 25 bucks and a hour of your time isn't worth another 30 years of service out of your Cub?
That's not much of a project.
NOW this is a project!
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28817.jpg
 
I have been looking for some chrome hubcaps for my 782 (12" and 8" rims). I have found two different styles: one is smooth chrome, the other has the IH emblem on them. Did IH make both styles for the pre-700,000 serial number (IH-made) Cub Cadets? I don't see them listed in any of the parts manuals that I have. Thanks!
 
Bryan C,
If memory serves me correctly, the 782 & 782D were the only ones that came with IH hub caps, and the 982D came with baby moons. But you could buy both from the dealers.
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(Message edited by cproctor on June 25, 2005)
 
Battery drained? Got my deck all done on the 100 I just bought and finally started cutting the yard. Got about two acres done and shut the tractor down. Wouldn't restart. Battery is drained. Got it back to the garage and started checking it out. I had a good 6.7 volts. Checked the VR and it is new, clearly marked "6VDC Positive Ground". I know that can't be right. Cubs are 12 volt. I don't have my manuals yet so can anyone tell me what VR I need? A diagram would be nice too.

Thanks,

DAve
 
For the Quiet Line operators, here is an upgrade that I found useful. Most are familiar with the lower grille retention springs. Here is what they look like:

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Due to the rather large outside diameter, they interfere with the muffler air box and cause annoying rattles at various engine speeds. I came up with a little invention that I’d like to share that’s easy and inexpensive to make and it works. Here’s the parts list:

2 cotter pins, approx .125 diameter by 2.0 long

2 compression springs, approx. 1.75 long by .031 wire diameter, .187 OD

2 small washers, .155 ID by .31 OD

2 small fender washers, .155 ID by .75 OD

Here is what the parts should look like for one assembly:

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Assemble the small washer, spring, and then the large washer over the cotter pin, in the order stated. Compress the spring fully and clamp with a pair of vice grips. With another set of pliers, bend over cotter pin legs at the point where the assembly length will be about 2.0 inches, as shown in the picture below:

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Trim the bent tabs to be slightly less than the washer radius. Use the grill screen to get the proper length perspective as shown in the picture below:

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For a final touch just to prevent potential metal-to-metal contact with the air box, slip a dip molded cap over the end. If you don’t have any of these, use a short length of rubber tubing.

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I discovered that some mysterious rattles disappeared once these were installed. They’re fun and easy to make (shouldn’t take over an hour) and only cost a couple dollars in parts.

(Message edited by dkirk on June 25, 2005)
 
Ahh, found the part number for a correct 12vdc VR at one of the sponser sites, so now I know what I am looking for. Thanks Matt.

DAve
 
I must be doing something wrong with the electric lift on my 147, other than a set of brushes in the motor and a new switch it has worked fine since 1986 when I bought the tractor.
 
Electrics lifts are the best for depth control. However they are prone to gear stripping. They are also very slow, they take too long to move up and down.
My Hydraulic lift has power and speed, but depth control is almost impossible due to the sensitivity of the control valve.
Manual lifts are fast and they give you feedback through the lifting arm. When plowing snow or dirt you can float the blade over the ground better. The depth control is somewhat coarse.

This is how i would classify lifts for each attachment. Best to worse.

Mowing Deck - Manual lift best for the locking depth control capabilities. With hydraulic or electric you need to adjust the lift stop. At least i need to on my NF.

Snow or Dirt Blading - Manual lift for feedback, but you arm could fall off.
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Snow throwing - Hydraulic for speed and power.

Plowing - Hydraulic or electric for power.

IMHO
 
Rick "M",
Didja' get any interesting pix today that you can share with us? I forgot my camara for most of the day.
 
Here is my 1970 Parts & Accessories brochure showing the IH embossed hubcaps on a 127.
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I'll go along with Charlie and Terry on the electric lift for tilling, with the addition of a helper spring. It made a huge difference on my 147 with the tiller (with one extension). I had tried it without the spring, and it took forever to raise, which made me wonder about how long the electric motor would last. With the tension adjusted on the spring, the tiller floats its way down into the soil. If the soil is incredibly hard and the tiller doesn't settle in quickly, I just slow down and let it work. I think it also helps when I hit a rock. Roots are another matter.
Plowing is the same way, much improved. Tension needs to be readjusted for the lighter weight of the plow compared to the tiller, or the plow just kind of hangs in the air until the point pulls it down.
I also like the manual (with spring) for using a box blade.
For snow, I had a blade on the 147 and another one on the 109 last winter, both with helper springs. With the helper spring on the electric lift, it's still slower than the manual, unless I do 6 or 7 driveways and the block sidewalk. Then, the manual lift gets kind of slow around the fourth driveway, and continues to slow down until the job is finished. Also, with a big fat glove on a big fat hand, sense of touch is practically zero. Naturally, I snapped the plastic knob/lever/cap/rare value-adder off of the lift switch. Bummer.
 
Hello all. I'm new here so I hope i'm not doing this wrong. I have a problem. A friend GAVE me a cub cadet 682. It has a plow blade, wheel weights, tire cains and the mower deck. But it didn't run (electrical was messed up...amoung other things). Well I have it running but the throttle doesn't work. Im not sure how it's supposed to be hooked up. I was woundering if some one could post a picture of their carb and surrounding area so I could see how the cables are supposed to be hooked up. I'm pretty sure the choke is right. But I know the throttle isn't. If I had a service manual would that show me what I need? Any help would be great. Thank You
Edward
 
What SAE weight oil can I buy for by Trans on a 169? I always buy the HI Cub brand but it's getting expensive so I thought I could save a few $'s at the local automotive store. The weight is not on the HI Cub jug I have.

Thanks for your help!

...DOM
 
Rick
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M
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,
Not picking on ya'. Dp you like this better?

Hey, I know that fat a$$ in picture #1! Look at the guy on the right side of the pic on the Case. I'll bet he's wishing he had a Cub Cadet.

(Message edited by thoffman on June 26, 2005)
 

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