Archive through November 15, 2005

[kmcconaughey]

Ted B., glad we could help. AFAIK, There are no model numbers for blades they are known as wide frame and narrow frame. (the actual blade doesn't matter it is the subframe) Here is what the one you want looks like. Note the two "pegs" pointing outward.

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on November 15, 2005)

 

[tbordeleau]

Thanks again!

TB

 

[zfriedman]

Funny thing, have nearly the same problem as Bob Nemac a few days ago. 102, battery is happy, fuel is getting through, but no spark. Points functioning but i reset them for good measure. New spark plug.

Tested coil with multimeter - resistance is good. With key switch in ignition i don't have 12 volts from the negative and positive terminals. Dug key switch out - works. With switch in I, one wire of the tester on positive terminal of coil and other grounded to frame i have 12 V. condenser grounded.

put a jumper from battery to (-) terminal on coil. no start-up. cleaned points. no start up.

was running a few weeks ago - something has rusted out. any guidance/suggestions appreciated.

 

[tcbusch]

Zack,
Are you saying that you are getting 12 volts from the positive of the coil to the frame but not to the negative side of the coil? If so your points are open or bad. Take the points cover off and rotate the motor until to points close. Do you get 12 volts between the pos and neg side then?

Sounds like a broken wire between the coil and points or bad points.

 

[tcbusch]

Is this belt tensioning system better than the older version with the bolt on the bottom? I like this design. Looks like my jacket sleeve wont get as dirty. Although I don't want to fabricate the linkage if the design isn't any better.

Any thoughts or comments?

 

[wham]

OK, I know you guys are gettin tired of hearing from me but I got my 124 cranked and running tonight (by the way you can build a good running engine from a K301 out of a WF and a K301 out of a NF to work in a 124 NF, thanks for all who helped on that). Now for my problem at hand, I have almost no understanding of how the clutch works on this tractor but it seems to be stuck and I cant get the engine in gear with it running. Do these type of clutches stick, I know they do on the big tractors,A, Super A, 100 and Super M IH's but this is a completely new area for me. When you press the clutch pedal all the way down are the 3 pins supposed to diengage or just exactly how does this cotton pickin thing supposed to work. Once again appreciate any and all help and advice. Thanks, Tim H.

 

[bmcmeen]

Mr. Ham -

Just wondering - is there a repair manual in your future?

I mean, I suppose we can post the whole manual one pic at a time for ya, but...

 

[zfriedman]

Terry,
already had the cover off and i checked it like that before - but i double checked just now and still got nothing. what you said about pos. terminal and frame making 12 volts is correct.

The wire is intact from the outside - maybe the brine from last winter finally killed it - I went light on the hosing off on that area in the spring.

I'll try out a jumper to the points from the coil (-). That wire, if at fault, can be replaced with what? Just about anything copper and same approximate size?

Thanks

 

[wham]

Dadgummit Bryan, you might have something there. I just got the same advice from my dad over the phone...........said he could work on the bigguns but wasn't much good on the CC's. He's a repair manual fanatic I guess you might say. Guess I may get the hambonybone going on Ebay and see what I can find on this "little darlin" I am working on. Thanks, Tim H.

 

[bmcmeen]

Tim H -

I'd rather see you get your manual from a reputable dealer or sponsor than from some clown that floods ePay with cheap 3rd generation photocopies, so caveat emptor!

Binder Books has always done well by me, LONG before they ever became a sponsor.

<font size="-2">...and yes, my dad taught me the value of a Helm manual long ago, too...</font>

 

[wham]

Thanks Bryan, I'll give them a look and see what I may find. Thanks, again. Tim H.

 

[tcbusch]

The snow is blowing horizontal here. I don't think it will be sticking around though the ground is too warm.

Tim,
You can buy the manuals at some IH dealers, or you can click on the links above and get one.

Zack,
Any wire of the same size will so.

 

[tschweizer]

Anybody know what this is from?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Travis, <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Corporation. <font size="-2">Sorry couldn't resist.</font>

Terry, yes that design works great. I have two like that and one with the adjuster on the bottom. All 3 are the narrow frame version not the QAxxA version. I don't use the one with the adjuster on the bottom.

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on November 16, 2005)

 

[tbordeleau]

Snowblower 101 again:

Is it possible (of course, anything is!), or common, or a standard fix, to adapt a QAxx-series blower to mount to a wide-frame tractor? Can someone direct me to any published steps to do so?

Thanks!

 

[tcarter]

Received the new creeper drive seal the other day and need to get it installed. I do have a pic showing the parts of the creeper, but can anyone describe the correct procedure to disassemble/reassemble it.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ted, it has been done. I have some photos somewhere, I'll see if I can find them and get them posted for you.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ted, I found 'em. These were originally posted by Scott Tanner back in December of 1999. He cut the subframe "forks" added in some angle iron and welded the subframe "forks" back on at a wider stance spaced to fit a wide frame.

 

[tbordeleau]

Ingenious. And thanks for scrounging up the pics!
So it looks like the original mount plates, with the horizontal "pins", were cut, and merely spaced to the side using angle iron, is that right?

Is the belt hook-up to the PTO unchanged between a QAxx and a QAxxA?

 

[pbell]

Travis
Some of the IH Auto Wagon's from the 1911 era used a similar emblem on the radiator (actually a fuel tank on the air cooled models), and I believe the very early IH Titan and Mogul tractors used a cast emblem on the front of the tractor that is similar to that. A decal or painted emblem was used on later versions.